Rear shock question

Hi, I'm changing the rear shocks and my 66 Satellite with some Konis. I knew from previous reading there would be a problem and there is: the bottom shock hole is 5/8" but the mounting stud is 11/16". The shock has a metal sleeve mounted in a rubber bush. My question is do you reckon I could drill the sleeve out slightly to fit or will be the drill bit grab onto the metal sleeve and RIP it out of the rubber? There is enough meat on the sleeve to allow it to be reamed out slightly, but I don't want to screw it up. The old shock has a rubber bush with no metal insert, so I think the Konis will be a lot better once they are on.

Never ran into that, but never used Koni shocks. That sleeve should press out. Measure the outer diameter to see what the OD is. I’ve done several cars with Gabriel shocks, none of those had a sleeve, just rubber.

I fitted some Koni shock and also found this.
The bush is bonded in it will not come out.
I clamped the shock in a drill press and carefully drilled them out. Used 2 drill size steps to get up to final size and went real slow with lube and it came out fine.

Just a thought...I remember years back at the service station I worked at we had paper catalogues from our suppliers for shocks, exhaust systems, brakes, etc. I know in the shocks catalogue they would list parts "installation kits" which consisted of new rubbers, attaching hardware, etc., you could install to replace worn out rubber bushings etc. without replacing the actual shock absorber. Memory tells me that many of the shock mount "eyes" or " loops" were many times all the same size but would accept rubbers and sleeves of different sizes. You may want to measure your loop inner diameter and see if there's a part available that fits your needs.

steve340 said:

I fitted some Koni shock and also found this.
The bush is bonded in it will not come out.
I clamped the shock in a drill press and carefully drilled them out. Used 2 drill size steps to get up to final size and went real slow with lube and it came out fine.

Click to expand...

Thanks, I'll try this today. Good to know it worked for you.

I would think Koni or any other shock manufacturer would have shocks that fit without having to do that!? The original and replacements didn't have a steel bush/ing in them. Got a 11/16ths" reamer? An adjustable ream would/should do the job too and that way you can get it to fit nicely. I would also lube them when you put them on the shock plate stud.....

So I got the lower bush sleeve opened up to the correct size for $20 and installed the Konis (not a job a really want to do again - that top nut is a nightmare). I noticed before installation that the konis were about 2" shorter than the original shocks when fully extended, but as the installed length was about 1.5" less than the konis full extension then I thought it wouldn't be an issue....
Now the car sits about an inch lower at the back, and the front has a corresponding increase in height. This is probably close to the factory look but I've always preferred the rear slightly higher than the front, not the other way around.
As the shocks supposedly don't contribute to ride height unless they are maxed out and pulling the car down, could this lowered rear stance be due to the original leaf springs being weak and they were being "assisted" upwardly by the original longer shocks?
The car definitely rides better with the konis, but is slightly more floaty on the front due to new rearward bias - maybe I could leave the rear alone and lower the front a touch by backing off the torsion bars?
I'm also considering painting the original shocks and putting them back on, but that's a backward step really. Any help or ideas appreciated.

Even a gas charged shock shouldn't have enough force to raise or lower a vehicle....

Yes looks like the stock ride height. Before lowering the front to much check proper ride height of suspension peices.
I was never fond of the bumper drag look on the 66 either.

Kinda hard to tell the stance on a drive that's not level however, based on where the wheel are in relation to the body, it looks pretty close if not spot to the factory ride height. Can you take a pic of it on a level area?

Well it's definitely not the shocks, new or old. The old shock, compressed by hand, can barely open itself back up, and I pulled one of the konis off the bottom mount this morning, and I could pull it down another few inches so it's not maxed out.
Maybe I'm just losing my marbles, but the car looks lower at the rear than it did before I started.
I also took measurements this morning from floor to top of fender (wish I'd taken some before I did the work). The front of the car is within 1/2" side to side, but the rear differs by 1 1/2" side to side, and they are crossed on the diagonal, so the passenger side is slightly higher at the front and lower at the rear, and the drivers side is slightly lower at the front but higher at the rear, so the whole car is twisted slightly.