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69 Coronet better E.T times

Copy of Snubber2.JPG
I ran my wife's 4 speed Challenger for a year. Hopped up small block with a completely stock drivetrain and suspension. It had wheel hop even on the street. An adjustable pinion snubber close to the floor allowed 5000 rpm starts with 9x28 slicks (12.50@110). At the end of the year upon inspection we found achipped a spider gear tooth and the stock axles twisted 1 spline. So before spending big $ on Cal Tracks (which do work very well) spend $20 and weld up a taller snubber.
Doug

Always have used stock springs with a snubber about a 1/4" from the floor. Never had a wheel hop issue.
 
I would think the plans for a path forward would be based on what the target ET is.

Imo, the speed would need to increase at least 20mph before I’d feel like you were getting out of the happy zone for Cal-Tracs.
However, at that point, if the ET’s were commensurate with the speed..... imo, you’d def be well beyond having any real reliability out of an 8-3/4 and a manual trans.

Of course, the clutch starts to be a big player at that point too.
And then there’s the question of how long 3rd gear will hold up in the 833 with frequent 1/4 mild pounding behind a high TQ motor in a heavy B body.

Im not really looking to make the car "faster" in the sense if stripping weight/more power, just run consistent times that are within its current capabilities, power wise, i think mids 12s are pretty reasonable.

I have a TKO 5 speed which should be good for the HP the car is sitting at. By my math based on cruising speeds the car has 3.55s or 3.73s, havent found a tag on the rear end yet. Since i have an OD id look at 4.10s in a dana 60 if i was to swap.

Burnouts are done in 2nd gear.
 
With a manual trans car, that isn’t set up very well for drag strip use, I’d say you’ll likely need to get the car to run 110-112mph(maybe more, depending on how good or bad the 60’ times actually are) to see solid mid-12 second ET’s.

Basically, the assumption is that the 60’ times wil never be as good as the equivalent auto equipped car, so you’ll need to have enough power down track to make up for the poorer 60’ times.
In other words, you’ll want to see more speed than would theoretically be required for a mid-12.
 
I am going to install a hydraulic clutch setup, and use the HitMaster launch control system. I have read some very good reviews from users. I may have to upgrade to an even better clutch disc and pp than I have now, but I plan on asking the clutch manufacturer and the HitMaster people what they think.
If their answer is "maybe" or "borderline" as to how well my current setup would handle the stress and heat the HitMaster would impart, I will go ahead and change the disc and pp while I'm at it.
Also looking at bias ply rears.
http://grannys.tripod.com/hitmaster.html
 
With a manual trans car, that isn’t set up very well for drag strip use, I’d say you’ll likely need to get the car to run 110-112mph(maybe more, depending on how good or bad the 60’ times actually are) to see solid mid-12 second ET’s.

Basically, the assumption is that the 60’ times wil never be as good as the equivalent auto equipped car, so you’ll need to have enough power down track to make up for the poorer 60’ times.
In other words, you’ll want to see more speed than would theoretically be required for a mid-12.
Does the poorer 60' times apply to all stick shift cars?
 
View attachment 841139

Always have used stock springs with a snubber about a 1/4" from the floor. Never had a wheel hop issue.
I'm curious as to how much stress a snubber puts on the 3rd member....especially launching at high rpm's. The 8 3/4 is already getting plenty of stress on a high rpm launch and especially so with sticky tires.
 
Does the poorer 60' times apply to all stick shift cars?

From what Ive seen, it does appear to be the case with small tire door cars.
Even in Stock and Super Stock, the autos generally 60’ better.

My friends Firebird 60’s pretty well for a stick car, but the equivalent car with an auto is about .05 better to 60’.
Hard to compete with TQ multiplication and dead hooking.
A067F0BF-7265-4C00-8C0C-C7BCD371A74C.png

What also seems to be the case is....... the less scienced out the stick car is, the greater the difference will be in the 60’ times when looking at “comparable” auto equipped cars.
 
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The mph is fairly low for a 505....... so either it’s a very mild combo, or there’s some speed left on the table.




How come when you say it, it sounds so much nicer?

Honestly, to the OP, Unless you have at least a few track outings learning to drive the car, you might be spending time in the wrong place. The 106 mph is awful low. Generally mph = hp, et/60ft= suspension. MPH usually does not change when you improve your suspension/60 ft unless something else is going on. You're simply not going to get to mid 12s with 106 IMO. The 106 could be the driving, could be fuel delivery, or something else. I would think that the car could go 12.50 with the suspension you already have. That would probably be a 1.85 - 1.90 60 ft, and a 112 out the back door.

Consider a couple more practice outings and report back.
 
13.3-13.5 is where my car has been, but 106 across the line. My 60 ft times suck. 2.XX seconds. So as to have some degree of consistency, I have been rolling out a few feet and then standing on the gas. At least that keeps me from spinning the tires. 440 6bbl with some go fast goodies.
I bent the heck out of Mancini's best pinion snubber. 1st run it was rubbing, 2nd run it was scraping the pinion yoke.
Off it came so I could drive home from the track. I suspect the factory leafs are worn.
Since I installed the :lowdown:Passon Performance a855 5 speed, I also switched to 4.10s from the 3.54 factory R&P gears, which helps get 'er going, especially having to ease off the start.
Instead of messing around with CalTracks and spending about 2/3rds of what the RMS StreetLynx or Gerst triangulated rear suspension system costs, I am just going to jump all the way in and go with the RMS or Gerst setup.
I would be doing the hydraulic clutch regardless, but the HitMaster is added incentive to go hydraulic.
I LOVE rowing the gears, so even IF I am loosing a smidge of time, I'm ok with that.
 
Russ....... believe it or not........ it could be worse.

In that series of Videos from that track rental day, there was an orange super bee making some passes....... that had an Ede headed, hyd roller cammed 528 in it with some sort of drag tire and a 4 speed.
I can’t recall if it was supposed to have 3.54’s or 4.10’s in it.
But....... to illustrate how much influence the driving proficiency has on the ET’s....... there were several runs in the 14’s!!
I think there was one 12 second pass.

So yes, I agree....... way too many parts get changed before sufficient seat time has been put in at the track.
I did some work on a guys small block this spring.
Tweaked an existing combo.
After some teething pains as a result of some things being missed on the re-install........ the car was quicker than it was previously....... but not much.
It has since picked up another .4-.5 with no other changes than just making passes and figuring out how to drive it.
 
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figuring out how to drive it.
After I installed an ignition system that has a rev limiter, now I always keep my foot on the floor when I shift gears, and that alone has made a significant improvement.
Lol...the first time I hit 2nd gear that way the hit was so hard my glovebox door popped open (it wasn't completely closed) and dust came out from under the dashboard...
So satisfying!
I've stopped, for now, looking for more power. My traction problems are so bad that I am saving up for a number of changes that are going to dramatically improve traction and performance.
 
I am going to install a hydraulic clutch setup, and use the HitMaster launch control system. I have read some very good reviews from users. I may have to upgrade to an even better clutch disc and pp than I have now, but I plan on asking the clutch manufacturer and the HitMaster people what they think.
If their answer is "maybe" or "borderline" as to how well my current setup would handle the stress and heat the HitMaster would impart, I will go ahead and change the disc and pp while I'm at it.
Also looking at bias ply rears.
http://grannys.tripod.com/hitmaster.html

Not a Mopar, but I got a call yesterday from a guy in AR with a '98 Camaro. It's a cam only car that last year had a T350 with a BTE converter. Best with that trans/converter was 7.59@93. This spring he installed a T56 with a Spec 3+ clutch, result was a best of 7.70@93. He then installed a HitMaster to control the hit of the clutch and took it to the track this last weekend to dial it in, by the end of the day ET was down to 7.45.

Grant
 
After I installed an ignition system that has a rev limiter, now I always keep my foot on the floor when I shift gears, and that alone has made a significant improvement.
Lol...the first time I hit 2nd gear that way the hit was so hard my glovebox door popped open (it wasn't completely closed) and dust came out from under the dashboard...
So satisfying!
I've stopped, for now, looking for more power. My traction problems are so bad that I am saving up for a number of changes that are going to dramatically improve traction and performance.
My foot was always glued to the floor when racing rev limiter or not! Thing is, you need a good setup for doing that or you'll see your rpm go up a lot between shifts. Also, had a 66 Fastback Mustang that would puke the keys out of the ignition on the 1-2 power shift. They would glance off my right thigh and end up in the passenger side rear floor board. Funny thing is, I could never pull them out by hand when in the on position but that car always had a strange knack for doing dumb stuff. That car is the one that let me know I could shift decently after a guy asked me if the car had a C4 or a C6 (only ran him through 3rd gear) and he didn't believe it was a stick car after we pulled over into a parking and him taking a look into the car after the run....
 
My foot was always glued to the floor when racing rev limiter or not!
I wanted the insurance policy that the rev limiter brings. The 6 bbl especially likes it when I keep it WFO.
had a 66 Fastback Mustang that would puke the keys out of the ignition on the 1-2 power shift.
My best friend's 70 Roadrunner 383 4 speed car's left turn signal would come on at the 2nd gear hit. The detent that held the switch lever in the off position was too worn to support the weight of the metal turn signal stem, so we always knew when he hit 2nd by the left rear light coming on. Lol.
Best with that trans/converter was 7.59@93. This spring he installed a T56 with a Spec 3+ clutch, result was a best of 7.70@93. He then installed a HitMaster to control the hit of the clutch and took it to the track this last weekend to dial it in, by the end of the day ET was down to 7.45.
Thanks!!
The reviews I have read are glowing. I can't wait!
 
Not a Mopar, but I got a call yesterday from a guy in AR with a '98 Camaro. It's a cam only car that last year had a T350 with a BTE converter. Best with that trans/converter was 7.59@93. This spring he installed a T56 with a Spec 3+ clutch, result was a best of 7.70@93. He then installed a HitMaster to control the hit of the clutch and took it to the track this last weekend to dial it in, by the end of the day ET was down to 7.45.

Grant

Thanks. Do you have the DA for each outing, and the mph for the last one? Always best to account for differing atmospheric conditions when making comparisons and determining actual net change.
 
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I posted this synopsis of a review on the HitMaster by another user. 2 stage timer.
He drove to a random road, not great traction. Made a hit and had a good launch and 60 ft via butt dyno.
Made an adjustment and had an even better launch.
He specifically said that that type of road surface is notorious for lack of traction, but the HitMaster and its adjustability did a great job with a dead hook, high G launch.
 
Thanks. Do you have the DA for each outing, and the mph for the last one? Always best to account for differing atmospheric when making comparisons and determining actual net change.

Didn't ask, just took notes as he was talking. Basically he wanted to know where he should go from there, I advised him the next step is to raise the 2step and keep adding clutch hit until it starts spinning the tires.

Grant
 
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