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How much work is this?

Mark1972

Mark1972

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Hell all. First, a big thank you to everyone on the forum that has answered a hundred questions. I know I've been all over the place regarding engines and rear gears. It was all a process in making some final decisions. Yes I'm going with the 383. I've already bought a 1970 383 out of a Dodge Monaco. While there are a number of 727 options available locally, there is one idea I cant get past. I've always had the vision of having a 4 speed car. I've read some articles, and have been told it's a lot of work and considerable money. My car is a 1970 318/904 on the column. The swap to a 383/727 is pretty straight forward. I just have to get my head wrapped around what's all involved in a 4 speed install. Any advice is appreciated. There is an option to just go 727 for a year or two while getting the 4 speed parts together.
 
I did my Roadrunner. I needed a column, pedal assembly, clutch adjuster rod, z bar and ball studs and their bushings, the support bracket for the firewall for the pedals if you wanna make it look correct, the bracket for the frame rail for the z bar, Trans, bellhousing and all the trans shifter related parts. You will also need the floor hump and you will have to cut the hole in the floor for it and weld it on. You have to also weld the z bar bracket on the frame rail. Starter relay is different as well on the 68-69 cars but not sure about 70 with the clutch safety switch. The crankshaft must be drilled for the pilot bushing as well or you'll have to shorten the shaft and/or run a bearing style like the dakota pickups used. There is alot of info out there on this. I am sure I am missing something small but that is most of the stuff you will need to do the swap. It cost me roughly $3800 back in 2011 to do it and I wouldn't think twice about doing it again. I absolutely would not own an automatic in a muscle car, but that is just me. Everyone has their thing ans mine is shifting gears.
 
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Best of both worlds
Clutch Flite
Clutch in front of 727
Older drag racing people could tell you more
Biggest problem is finding a clutch flite bell housing
 
Brewers sale the whole kit to do the swap.
 
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Monkeymaster said:
Best of both worlds
Clutch Flite
Clutch in front of 727
Older drag racing people could tell you more
Biggest problem is finding a clutch flite bell housing
Click to expand...
wow never heard of that, interesting any more info on that?
 
If you have no parts for it yet, Brewers will be your best friend. My buddy had the Hemi 4 speed trans and 11" bellhousing, so I used them for the rest and had some parts already. Either way, they are your go to source for your parts.
 
Rather then going with all the factory clutch linkage I think I would buy a hydraulic slave and master cylinder kit with the pedal. Buy a repopped hump. 383 with a forged crank should be drilled for a pilot shaft bushing...unless it's a late 383 w a cast crank then not sure. If you have the engine just look at the crank and you will be able to tell. If I was starting fresh I would look at anything new...tko or anything that fits? You may get lucky and find a good 833 used but a lot of them have been abused. A rebuilt 833 is most of the way to a 5 speed...imo. I 've never heard anyone complain about having a overdrive.
 
4 speeds are fun to drive ?
That said,
nothing FASTER than a well setup Auto/Converter deal on the right rear gears/tire diameter ? it's called Torque "Multiplication" and really helps the wee-83's.
 
This car has never really been about going fast or worrying about 1/4 mile times. It's about what I find most enjoyable. I learned on a manual, and prefer them to this day, even living in a city.

Having read responses and looking at the links provided, including a very quick response from Brewers, I believe my best option is to install the 383 with the 727 for now, and then over the course of a year or two, if I still feel the itch for the 4 speed, I can buy what I need and move forward. The car isn't going anywhere. Thanks again for all insight.
 
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What car body are you going into?
My cars are as they were, when they were born. Changeovers are a lot of extra work.

I like the 4 speeds...although when I drive it to work, I need a place to stage my coffee cup during shifting. A small inconvenience, but as long as my left foot holds up I'll own standards.....and hope my right doesn't go first
 
1970 Plymouth Satellite.

20190927_192156_HDR.jpg 20190902_112021.jpg
 
Curiousyellow71 said:
Rather then going with all the factory clutch linkage I think I would buy a hydraulic slave and master cylinder kit with the pedal. Buy a repopped hump. 383 with a forged crank should be drilled for a pilot shaft bushing...unless it's a late 383 w a cast crank then not sure. If you have the engine just look at the crank and you will be able to tell. If I was starting fresh I would look at anything new...tko or anything that fits? You may get lucky and find a good 833 used but a lot of them have been abused. A rebuilt 833 is most of the way to a 5 speed...imo. I 've never heard anyone complain about having a overdrive.
Click to expand...
They may exist but have yet to find a cast crank 383. Dont count on the forged crank being drilled for a 4 spd unless it came that way from mopar.
The rest of the post maybe worth looking into.
 
The car hobby is all about making a car the way you want it. Gather all the parts you need before you tearing into it.
 
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mopar 3 B said:
They may exist but have yet to find a cast crank 383. Dont count on the forged crank being drilled for a 4 spd unless it came that way from mopar.
The rest of the post maybe worth looking into.
Click to expand...
I have a 71 383hp born with a cast crank....I didn't know they existed either until I took it apart. Also have 3 383's 66,68,69 and a 361 all all were auto's...and have a place for pilot shaft bushing..but I am not saying I know all and you may be right...because you never know what mopar did...until you look.
 
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Curiousyellow71 said:
I have a 71 383hp born with a cast crank....I didn't know they existed either until I took it apart. Also have 3 383's 66,68,69 and a 361 all all were auto's...and have a place for pilot shaft bushing..but I am not saying I know all and you may be right...because you never know what mopar did...until you look.
Click to expand...
That was the only year I know of with a cast crank and have yet to see one. Yes the BB and RB auto crank looks like it has a place for the pilot shaft and bushing. Putting one there without some machining will not happen and waiting till the build is done to checking it is just a tad late. That was a lesson learnt many years ago.
 
mopar 3 B said:
That was the only year I know of with a cast crank and have yet to see one. Yes the BB and RB auto crank looks like it has a place for the pilot shaft and bushing. Putting one there without some machining will not happen and waiting till the build is done to checking it is just a tad late. That was a lesson learnt many years ago.
Click to expand...
When I dropped a four speed behind my 440 auto about forty years ago, it was no problem. Back then you could buy undersized bushings that fit the holes in automatic cranks and it worked out just fine for me.
 
And now you buy the jeep style bushing that fits in the convertor pilot hole...
Screen Shot 2019-10-03 at 9.56.53 PM.png
 
I'd drill the crank if you can, with engine not in the car. There may be a reason not to but either way works. Cutting the nose of trans just runs against my grain.
 
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