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Oil Pan & MP Windage Tray Sh*t Sandwich Mess

roadrunnerh

roadrunnerh

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Well, I created this lovely mess today. I torqued to FSM specs 15 Ft. Lbs. The rubbery gaskets that came with the MP windage tray squished out under a few bolts... No way will this F'ed up combo will seal. :BangHead:
 
Last edited:
roadrunnerh said:
Well, I created this lovely mess today. I torqued to FSM specs 15 Ft. Lbs. The rubbery gaskets that came with the MP windage tray squished out under a few bolts... No way will this fucked up combo will seal. :BangHead:
Click to expand...
What pan are you using? Is the pan rail true,,,,That will hep determine which gasket is best for you.

7.10.17 043.jpg 7.10.17 048.jpg 7.10.17 053.jpg
 
I'm using a clean factory 187 pan. I thoroughly checked for straightness and hammered a couple small issues. This pan was not previously over tightened - no dimples at bolt holes. Of course now it's dimpled! 15ft lbs. folks on a quality torque wrench.
 
FWIW, I never torque oil pan bolts to specification. I use a light coat of gasket sealant snug all the bolt til sealant comes out slightly and call it good! Never had them leak! 440'
 
Sure looks like too much torque. Also looks like the pan is bent now, too.
You certainly have enough sealant on that gasket, too. :)
I just did mine recently and I'm another that likes to "sneak up" on those bolts -
I use a 1/4" drive ratchet and employ the "two finger torque wrench" method.
A week later, I'll get back under there and go around things again if needed.
 
Well, it's now off the motor. Frustrating day for sure!

I have to come up with a new plan. I know I used too much Ultra Black, but I also have to use different gaskets!

4 layers of RTV builds up even if you spread thin coats.
 
If the tray is nice and straight,a thin gasket works.I glue it to the scraper with just a small schmear of grease on the block. For you, a thicker gasket between the pan and tray is needed to conform to the pan with just a bead of "the right stuff" or something better than some cheap silicone. I don't like anything oozing to the inside of the pan so lay the bead to the outer edge.Snug it till it starts to ooze and STOP. Let it be overnight and tighten in the morning!
 
I agree. I use cork and glue them to the pan or to the windage tray. Use something like Gaskasinch or High Tack. Once the glue is dried snug up the bolts. The glue keeps the gasket from squishing out.
 
Permatex Ultra Grey for a sealer. I like to seal the gasket to the pan and let it sit a while to set up
(I lay it face down on my workbench so it lays flat on the pan and doesn't "walk").
With the windage tray, same thing - glue the other gasket to it and let it set up a while before
reassembly.
Give both about a half hour or so, enough so they don't fight you when it's time to slap it all together,
yet still somewhat supple enough to fill slight irregularities.
Once it's time to go, a thin film of the Permatex on the topside of each gasket, then in ya go.
Start a bolt near each of the 4 corners to line it all up, then in with the rest of the bolts.
Snug with the two finger torque wrench, working alternatively side to side, front to back, cha cha cha....
once you think you got them all pretty snug, once all the way around the pan to double check and
you're done.
Go back a few days/a week later to check on it just for peace of mind. Snug anything that looks like it
needs it.
 
I have had real good luck with the FelPro black & Mopar gaskets. Very small bead of silicone inside & outside the bolt holes. I use a 3/8 ratchet griped around the ratchet head not out on handle, tighten till a little silicone is visible, walk all the way around doing each bolt. Never used a torque wrench. Make sure bolt holes are not dimpled before starting. OP, pic looks like way too much sealer.
 
And another note about too much sealer, if it's oozing outside its probably oozing inside also, you don't want globs coming off and plugging the pick up screen. Same as valve cover bolts, two finger method on a 1/4 drive and you'll be ok.
 
Thanks for all the feedback fellas. No more torque wrench for this application. I did sneak up on these bolts only tightening easy, but when I pulled out the T wrench, it went to ****.
Here's my plan:
1. clean everything again, straighten pan and tray
2. mask tray with blue tape only exposing contact area and Loctite Hi-Tack sprayed lightly and stick a gasket to each side. Let it lay flat on bench with a little weight holding it all down. Let it set.
3. Silicone on block only on front corners and above real main seal.
4. Silicone - on the oil pan, and carefully finger tighten, then 1/4 drive ratchet with some finesse!

What do you guys think?
 
This jarred my toasted memory. 30 plus years ago there was not the choice in gaskets nor the quality we have today.They were all pretty much CORK! Used to use thin white string to hold the gaskets in alignment to get the bolts in. I still have an old tray with battle scars:lol:

12.3.17 041.jpg 12.3.17 042.jpg 12.3.17 043.jpg
 
I used the Summit windage tray with the embossed silicon strips. I trimmed the return slots a wee bit but other than a small dab of sealer at the corners it fit and has been leak free for over a year now. Plus they say it is reusable, I would not bet on it though.
 
I seriously considered that composite windage tray from the beginning, but it seems as if 50% of folks say they're good, 50% not so good.
Aftermarket flat rail oil pan = yes.
factory pan = not so much...but possible is what I gather.
 
I have a stamped steel pan with the reinforcing ribs and it seals great... No sealer whats ever....
 
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