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Oil Pan & MP Windage Tray Sh*t Sandwich Mess

If you go with an RTV keep the bead small, like 1/8"inch...ultra gray or black work good, gray just gets a little harder and can be tougher to get apart later. And the word 'clean' can't be stressed enough!
 
I stopped using gaskets. No problem so far.
 
I stopped using gaskets. No problem so far.

I quit using gaskets on my drag motors too, just the thin silicone bead each side of the bolt holes. But I knew the pan would be off frequently. Never leaked. Another option is Permatex Spray a Gasket or Copperkote the gaskets to the tray & then to the pan & block.
 
The gaskets are giving way letting the bolt heads dimple everything. Get a couple gaskets from Superformance like Hemitis posted or redo it with ultra grey and no gaskets.
 
The only reason I use a gasket is for disasembly. Use Ultra Grey. The bolts just hold the pan on until it drys. DO NOT over tighten. Without gaskets you'll bend the pan and tray in half removing it.
Doug
 
I noticed the same thing started to happen on my block, ckd that was every thing was straight on a surface plate, plus the pan an tray were new. I installed studs in the block on the pan surface, easy peasy. a little gasket sealer of your choice, be aware the nuts are fine thread so your torque will increase at a factory setting, I don't torque them just use a little common sense, by the way the gaskets cant crawl out or move. it makes brg inspection a cool breeze in the car on the ground, depending on where your sump can hit your k member, you have to drop the pan about 3/4 of an inch for removal.
I dont have a k member in my dart. so cool breeze.
 
This was my winning combo (hopefully).
Mask each side of the windage tray other than the gasket mating surfaces. Spray Loctite Hi Tack on each side of tray, stick gasket on each side. Let that setup and mate real well on the bench with the weight of the oil pan keeping everything making good contact. Put a small bead of Ultra Black about 1/8" on the block surface and oil pan rail, lay the windage tray and gasket sandwich on the block and place oil pan over top. I very gingerly tightened the pan bolts, just a little at a time going around the whole pan. I did NOT TORQUE to FSM specs. (It blew out my gasket last time). Just nice and snug.
Done! It looks great and I feel confident it will seal. Eliminating TWO coats of RTV was key! Use Loctite Hi Tack aerosol.
 
This was my winning combo (hopefully).
Mask each side of the windage tray other than the gasket mating surfaces. Spray Loctite Hi Tack on each side of tray, stick gasket on each side. Let that setup and mate real well on the bench with the weight of the oil pan keeping everything making good contact. Put a small bead of Ultra Black about 1/8" on the block surface and oil pan rail, lay the windage tray and gasket sandwich on the block and place oil pan over top. I very gingerly tightened the pan bolts, just a little at a time going around the whole pan. I did NOT TORQUE to FSM specs. (It blew out my gasket last time). Just nice and snug.
Done! It looks great and I feel confident it will seal. Eliminating TWO coats of RTV was key! Use Loctite Hi Tack aerosol.
 
I have done that before also an it worked for me. I used hi tack in a spray can, and it keeps the gasket from wanting to crawl or move. I left the gasket dry an coated the block the windage tray an the pan. For removal you need a power wire brush, there was no rtv when these cars were built. we had Permatex, Indian head gasket shellac an a few other things here on the west coast, no gasoila products out here. there were some motorcycle sealants that were pretty good.
 
The gaskets are giving way letting the bolt heads dimple everything. Get a couple gaskets from Superformance like Hemitis posted or redo it with ultra grey and no gaskets.
First he is supposed to buy gaskets and then not use them. Question why?
 
First he is supposed to buy gaskets and then not use them. Question why?
If he’s gonna use a gasket, those Superformance are the ones to use as they don’t compress like those FelPro gaskets do. The FelPros are garbage in my opinion. If he doesn’t want to use gaskets, Ultra-Grey by itself works great and you don’t have to deal with gaskets. As mentioned, it just comes apart easier with gaskets in there. There’s more than one way to skin a cat as the old saying goes. I’ve done it both ways.
 
I used a brass wire cup wheel on a small grinder, went over the block surface, both sides of the windage tray, and the pan surface, the windage tray was new an so was the pan. checked the tray and the pan on a surface plate Blanchard ground 1 1/2 steel plate. I installed studs as I do with most engines I fool with. sprayed the surfaces with hi tack. put the first gasket against the block surface, then sprayed both tray surfaces with the hi tack, put that on the block, then I sprayed the pan surface with hi tack. put the pan on the block, then put the nuts on the studs, an used a little common sense to tighten them up. this way the gasket cant crawl anywhere, wiped everything down with Berrymans b 12, an it was ready for paint primer or what ever.
 
That's the one everyone recommends in one of the other engine threads. Be sure to get the one for your application. They make one for stock and one for stroker motors.
I see those recommended frequently but I’ve never used one. I’d like to try one at some point.
 
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