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Can Wet Plugs Fire?

My 68 383 RR cranks but does not fire. I replaced the coil, cap, rotor, ECU and verified a good spark at coil and at one cylinder. Tried to start it several times during replacement of the above parts (a week or two apart each try) over a period of several weeks. At first I thought it was a fuel problem and initially could get it to start if I cranked long enough and at the same time pumped the pedal 2 or 3 or more times. Now I'm replacing the plugs and they are wet from all the rich mixture (building up, I guess) when trying to start.

Questions: (1) will wet plugs prevent firing?, and (2) assuming the problem is a wet combustion chamber, will new plugs be able to fire if there is left-over over-rich mixture left in the combustion chamber or is there anything else I should do first?

Please give me any comments or suggestions.
You need 3 things for it to run. Fuel, spark and compression. The one thing that I didn't see from your note is do you have compression?
 
With plugs removed and plug wires laying around, be careful. A little gas spray is possible when you crank it and an unexpected spark is not a good thing.
 
No need to push accel pedal to floor. Just a bit past idle and you should hear the choke plate "click" shut
I like to give it a full accelerator pump shot when cold.
 
I did not read all the posts to see if you have a solution for this yet, but when I had this issue, I found it to be the gap distance in the distributor was too wide. The distance between the 8 little spokes on the piece the rotor sits in on to the magneto or reluctor or whatever it’s called. It’s supposed to be like .008” or something (check your shop manual for exact spec). Mine was open way too much, just enough that it would start sometimes, run like ****, but mostly wouldn't start. Once I gapped that properly, she runs like a champ.

if you do try to gap this properly, you must use a non-magnetic gapping tool. Like a brass feeler gauge or something. I think I actually used a piece of paper folded over to double up the thickness. I think that measured .007” when I mic’d it.

View attachment 847594
Get rid of that rotor. The f-ing thing is shot. I'm sure the cap isn't any better.
 
My 68 383 RR cranks but does not fire. I replaced the coil, cap, rotor, ECU and verified a good spark at coil and at one cylinder. Tried to start it several times during replacement of the above parts (a week or two apart each try) over a period of several weeks. At first I thought it was a fuel problem and initially could get it to start if I cranked long enough and at the same time pumped the pedal 2 or 3 or more times. Now I'm replacing the plugs and they are wet from all the rich mixture (building up, I guess) when trying to start.

Questions: (1) will wet plugs prevent firing?, and (2) assuming the problem is a wet combustion chamber, will new plugs be able to fire if there is left-over over-rich mixture left in the combustion chamber or is there anything else I should do first?

Please give me any comments or suggestions.
 
My 68 383 RR cranks but does not fire. I replaced the coil, cap, rotor, ECU and verified a good spark at coil and at one cylinder. Tried to start it several times during replacement of the above parts (a week or two apart each try) over a period of several weeks. At first I thought it was a fuel problem and initially could get it to start if I cranked long enough and at the same time pumped the pedal 2 or 3 or more times. Now I'm replacing the plugs and they are wet from all the rich mixture (building up, I guess) when trying to start.

Questions: (1) will wet plugs prevent firing?, and (2) assuming the problem is a wet combustion chamber, will new plugs be able to fire if there is left-over over-rich mixture left in the combustion chamber or is there anything else I should do first?

Please give me any comments or suggestions.
Crazy as it sounds, my 65 would do the same thing try and fire but would not run, turned out the relay wire at fire wall block was arching and not plugged all the way together, the interior wire pushed half way when I plugged the wires in from engine side
 
You changed too many things at once, put new plugs in, throw the wet ones away, stick a screwdriver down the carb start cranking with throttle 1/4 open (every time starting 1/4 open). Once running good set that choke to the right spec make sure the vacuum pull off is working too. All this info is in any service manual. If it backfires every time you start it alls good lol
 
Throw a dash of common sense at it.

If your plugs continue to get wet, two things can cause that. Both related. Carb floats, and/or valves/seats. If the valves/seats, that the floats open and close are leaking...there it is. If so, why? They either need to be replaced, or there's a problem with the floats.
Yeah, the float settings, both up and down, need to be set. But also, need to make sure the floats are actually 'floating'. Should be able to tell if the floats have fuel in them, or if they feel heavy, depending on what kind of floats are in there. Personally, I only use brass floats.
 
Every carb I have worked on has a clear-flood mode. All you gotta do is open the primaries 100%. At the very end of the throttle-valve opening, a lever will open the choke at least a quarter inch, then you just crank it until it starts firing. It might start with just one plug firing,then three, then who knows but after several revolutions, it will begin trying to run; just keep cranking with the pedal on the floor. Well don't crank it forever,lol,sooner or later the starter might overheat and burn up. That's what they say but it's never happened to me .......
I have started dozens of cars this way since 1969. In fact I start my 1980 Volare slanty like this several times every summer when/if I have to move it. I actually splash a good ounce of gas straight into the carb throat. And my HO367 gets the same treatment every spring.
However;
there will come a point that if it hasn't started, then it won't because all the oil has been washed off the cylinder walls, and your ring-seal is too poor to help draw air into the chambers, and the cylinder pressure is too low to clear the plugs. For this reason I always use gas that I have already mixed oil into, for use by my weed-whacker/chainsaw. Works like a charm.
As for the reluctor gap, my testing shows a gap from zero to about .030 will reliably trigger the Factory ECUs, while .008 to .011 seems to be a good target if your top bushing is in good shape. Sometimes I have had to compensate for a bad bushing. It's just like points in that regard. The reason we use a brass feeler gauge, is because it's easier to "sense" the gap when magnetism isn't sucking it all together. I use whatever is handy, cuz it just ain't that critical. Rather, perhaps I should say; I've never found it to be critical.
As for float level; when it comes to starting; if the choke closes all the way then she hardly cares about float level. This is because an actual cold engine requires huge amounts of fuel to get going because a huge amount of that fuel will never take part in combustion, during the cranking period. Some of it is gonna puddle in the intake, some is gonna stick to the runner surfaces, and some of it is gonna pass straight thru the engine never having caught fire. And if you have a compression problem or the cylinders have been washed clean,then it's only gonna be worse. But as soon as she starts, well, all that fuel that that is hanging around in the intake, is gonna make it's way into the chambers and sometimes, almost all of it at once! So the fast idle is there to try to keep the engine running at this time. In a few seconds to a half-minute or so, the engine will clean itself out and the rpm may be a lil high; so this is when you " kick it down" a step on the fast-idle cam. Now the fuel-level becomes important. As does the choke pull-off adjustment. Depending on the ambient temp, and the condition of the carb-heating system, it should become possible at about the three-minute-mark, to kick the choke off. Now your low-speed system takes over.

But no; wet plugs no sparky;the electrode is shorted. Cracked insulators will often not spark either. Same with heavily sooted; and few coils will spark .080 gaps during cold-start. But .045 with a good coil is better than .035 with a crappy one..
Excellent ideas. The next thing I'm going to do is check the reluctor gap. I thought of it at first, but didn't do it before cause I didn't see why it would have changed since distributor has been there for 20 years.
 
I did not read all the posts to see if you have a solution for this yet, but when I had this issue, I found it to be the gap distance in the distributor was too wide. The distance between the 8 little spokes on the piece the rotor sits in on to the magneto or reluctor or whatever it’s called. It’s supposed to be like .008” or something (check your shop manual for exact spec). Mine was open way too much, just enough that it would start sometimes, run like ****, but mostly wouldn't start. Once I gapped that properly, she runs like a champ.

if you do try to gap this properly, you must use a non-magnetic gapping tool. Like a brass feeler gauge or something. I think I actually used a piece of paper folded over to double up the thickness. I think that measured .007” when I mic’d it.

View attachment 847594
How did the gap get too wide? I have the brass 0.008 " gauge, should have checked it before, but will now. Thanks
 
How did the gap get too wide? I have the brass 0.008 " gauge, should have checked it before, but will now. Thanks
Mine was a brand new distributor from mopar performance. The gap was too big out of the box. Took me a few days to figure it out.
 
Mine was a brand new distributor from mopar performance. The gap was too big out of the box. Took me a few days to figure it out.
Thanks. Mine's been running 20 years, but I'll check it. I'm running out of ideas.
 
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