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What is the advantage of this?

Mark1972

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Just trying to educate myself before I start rebuilding my own big block for my '70 Satellite. Been reading a lot about stroker kits. I see that 440Source has stroker crank kits to stroke a 383 to a 438. So my question is, what's the difference between a 383 stroked to 438 and an original 440? Assuming everything else, heads, intake, exhaust is the same that is, is there still an advantage? A fellow who has many decades of experience with Mopar asked me the other night why I was wasting my time and money on a 383 and not a 440. He said that the 383 wouldn't be much of an upgrade from my 318. I was kind of dumbfounded on that comment. He's obviously a fan of the 440, but for heavens sake, there must be a difference between a 318 and a 383. For what it's worth, while the 383 will sit in front of a 727 for a couple of years, the goal is to go 4 speed, if that changes anything regarding 383 vs 440. Would love to hear comments not only on the stroke kit, but also on the 318 to 383 comparison. Have a great weekend all.
 
First of all, it gets a smaller and lighter engine. Usually stroker kits include lighter weight, stronger connecting rods and pistons which helps them accelerate quicker. Most also come with better than OEM balance. You can also reuse most of the existing engine components if you choose to.
Mike
 
The only advantage I see is a little less weight in the 383 block. But if you're willing to spend the money to stroke a 383, why not spend an extra couple hundred on a 440 block and stroke it !!
 
Only "slightly" narrower ... I can install my 440 into a b-body from below with headers installed. I doubt you could do that with a 383 in an a-body.
 
383 is a B engine 3.375 stroke.
440 is a RB engine 3 75 stroke.
Bore is nearly identical. I'd much rather have a stroked 440 than 383. If you're putting it in an A body you have to go 383 or you'll have more clearance issues than you care to deal with! 440'
 
Best option imo is to stroke a 400.....same size as a 383 externally but has a bore that's slightly larger than a 440. A small bore engine will shroud the valves more than a large bore engine will. BUT....you can make a stock stroke 383 run pretty dang good too and save some money doing it unless it needs everything, including a crank.
 
A good 383 is heads and tails above a 318!! That is funny! I agree with Cranky, the good 400 stroked is a great upgrade.

Personally I rather have a stock '69 383 than a stock 69 440! They rev higher and faster, just great engines. I agree if going in a A body, the B motor is way easier to deal with.
 
In my humble opinion...
There have been stroker kits around for a while for 383. They weren't real popular for the exact reasons you are questioning them . There isn't any huge advantage other than smaller, narrower engine, slightly lighter. And a 440 was cheaper, cause stock parts could be used, no stroker expense.
However....
440 blocks are drying up, and mopar made seven times as many 383s. There used to be lots of 383s in the corners of garages, unused, replaced by 440s.
Now, however, there are kits that go to 496 for your 383. Now we're talking!
Now there are more candidates, and we're 50+ bigger than a 440, with better,lighter,stronger internals in a smaller, easier-to-fit package.
As others have said, the BEST is a stroked 400 (short of a killer aftermarket block), but 400 are fewer and more valuable for that reason.
People stroke 383s now, because they have them, and it now makes sense.
 
I wouldn’t take a 383 to a 438 but would go further if not as far as possible. Within reason of course. I’m not Rockafella.
 
Now for the 318.
It's a fine motor , just never made as a hi-perf version. A four barrel 383 is a hundred hp better from the factory.
Imho, a 318 is comparable to a 327 chevy, except Chevy did 327s with compression, camshafts, forged pistons, good heads and hipo four barrels, 318s got none of those, and reputation suffered. Put that many good parts in a 318, and it will run too.
 
So to clear up any confusion, my car is a '70 B-body, a Satellite. I already own a 1970 383 out of a Monaco, although I haven't torn it down yet to confirm all what is good and what's not good in the rotating assembly. That is why I brought up the stroker kit. The goal would be to build a 350-375hp 383 with the original iron heads(906?)that runs reliably. I love the idea of the higher, quicker revs not for right now, but for future with the 4 speed. I know I will need head work done, with a little bit of compression (9.5?), and a cam kit like below.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-k21-223-4/make/dodge

I would think an intake,carb, and headers and I'm in business.
 
Not hard to get 1 hp per cubic inch these days and imo, getting 380+ hp without stroking won't be all that difficult.
 
I've done both
lots of good help in this thread
Stock 383 can work just fine and with big cam will make as much top end HP as the stroke version
however not nearly as much mid range
Heads equalize the top end power
so much for 383
stroking
the ones I did were for stealth matching number builds
I do not think cost effective for most
back in the day 383 pistons were custom with the 440 crank and 440 rod strokers
IDK about now
I would not use B rods in a B 383 or 400 stroker
use 440 length rods or longer
If 383 pistons are more expensive it would be worth it to use off the shelf stroker kit from say SCAT or Moliner (not eagle or offshore) and source a 400 block for reasons said above
if the 383 does not need a rebuild just drop it in and enjoy and build a stroked 400 for later
or stroked 440 taking time to round up parts at reasonable prices
Think Heads at same time, re iterate,
 
As this has been said if your buying a stroker go for the most cubes. Only I wouldn't bore the block .060 over when .030 will clean it up.
 
Bigger is better...bigger makes more torque, torque moves the car. A 318 in its wildest dream couldn't match up to a 383. A 440 is obviously bigger then a 383 makes more torque and imo better. But If you want to build a stroker 383, forget turning it into a 440...build a 492. If your considering a stroker...build the biggest engine you can afford. A 400 stroker bigger yet...its also is a heavier block then a 383 and preferred for those 2 reasons.
But...
A good stall high converter will wake up a 383 and compensate for torque.. For a 383 build..spend 700 bucks on a converter that is tight for street driving but stalls near the 383s torque peak...and you will have a 383 that will out run a lot off 440's . With converter technology we have now...it won't act much different then a stock stall.
 
As this has been said if your buying a stroker go for the most cubes. Only I wouldn't bore the block .060 over when .030 will clean it up.

The "most cubes" are gained with increased "stroke", boring .030 or .060 over does NOT gain you much in displacement compared to increasing the stroke. Keep the bore as close to stock as you can to maximize wall thickness and stiffness of the bore.
 
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