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What is the advantage of this?

Curiousyellow71 said:
A 318 in its wildest dream couldn't match up to a 383.
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I dunno bout that. A teen in a light car like a Duster or Demon might surprise you. A buddy and I messed around with some left over small block stuff laying around between us and got his 72 going 13.50 @ 102. And that was with a stock short block with 115k miles on it, a decent set of 360 heads (yup, that lowers compression), Torker intake, headers, .480 lift cam of unknown duration etc (he just dotted it), heavy duty MP rockers and push rods, stock converter and 904 trans and lots of gear. The converter killed the bottom end and the cam didn't light off until 3000 rpm but it was like on fire to 6200. 60 ft sucked at 2.2 but the mph told us it had more in it.
 
Another thought on the subject. You want to build something you can afford to drive or a gas hog? Then consider that stock 383 got 5 mpg or better over the stock 440 in the same combination. Is all that extra HP really going to be worth the bragging rights? Some thing only you can decide.
 
The best driving HP combo I ever road in was just simply done with ported heads and headers with upgraded intake and carb ignited with a multi spark box. A very mild cam was introduced to it later without noticeable ill effects in mileage. I was told it was a “1 step up cam and 1.6 rockers.” I know that’s not the most helpful cam description but that is what he told everybody.

Truly a nice package since the breathing was optimized.
 
The 318 is the most underaged engine ever IMO.
I’ve has a lot of good fortune with a few good 318 builds. It used to be hard to get a good slug for them years back. Now, I’d like to take one .090 over if there was meat enough to feel OK with afterwards-and let’er rip good with a few good parts.

I myself would only do it in a light A body.
I’d bet I’d kill a few Nova’s with it.


33 IMP said:
Now for the 318.
It's a fine motor , just never made as a hi-perf version. A four barrel 383 is a hundred hp better from the factory.
Imho, a 318 is comparable to a 327 chevy, except Chevy did 327s with compression, camshafts, forged pistons, good heads and hipo four barrels, 318s got none of those, and reputation suffered. Put that many good parts in a 318, and it will run too.
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318s are great engines..my statement saying 318 can't compare to a 383 was meant to be a direct comparison. In a B body why build a 318 if you can built a 383? A 318 can certainly be built to out run a big block just like Cranky mentioned. But I have also built up a 225 slant 6 that would beat a lot of 318s. It's all relative...they can all be fun...enjoy what you have...nothing wrong with that....but in my shop if I want to build a engine for a B body and have a 318 and a 383 sitting there...I am building the 383. If I have a 383 and a 440...I am building the 440.
On a side note: The best burnout I have ever done was with a 318. It revved higher then my Big blocks.. That was a whole lot of fun too..
 
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Cranky said:
I dunno bout that. A teen in a light car like a Duster or Demon might surprise you. A buddy and I messed around with some left over small block stuff laying around between us and got his 72 going 13.50 @ 102. And that was with a stock short block with 115k miles on it, a decent set of 360 heads (yup, that lowers compression), Torker intake, headers, .480 lift cam of unknown duration etc (he just dotted it), heavy duty MP rockers and push rods, stock converter and 904 trans and lots of gear. The converter killed the bottom end and the cam didn't light off until 3000 rpm but it was like on fire to 6200. 60 ft sucked at 2.2 but the mph told us it had more in it.
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A 13.5 with a 2.2 60 ft is impressive.
...We have a 65 dart gt w a 318 and j heads, a 71 340 4 speed duster, and a 76 dart sport with pretty rare E58 360. I agree A body small block cars are very underrated.
 
Ok. So that pretty much answers my questions from my original post. Now, I have another. There is a running 440 with 727(running when it was removed)that a guy wants $700 for, in Canadian dollars. That's like $500USD. I believe it was out of a '76 or '77 New Yorker. Here's the problem, it's a lean burn. Now I've read a few things. What is the difference? Is it electronic? Carburetion? I've also been told the heads are no good. Can you guys clear this up for me please.
 
I am NO expert on the lean burn but I will say it can all be removed and replaced with the pre lean stuff, ie dist., carb, remove the unneeded smog stuff like egr etc if you want. Your compression will be that of the smog era no doubt. I still see running late 440s for $500 and I figure they are worth that.
 
heads are the same
most likely 452's hardened ex seats
motorhomes have premium valves and penut plugs with cooling passages on each side
U can un lean burn it
TQ is a great carb
x2 on keep bore small
maybe a short fill​
 
That's a good donor...all the lean burn is Chrysler's attempt at computer control the timing for emissions. Put a electronic distributer in there...mid 72 and newer and a hook up a msd to it and it's done. Pretty sure the lean burn doesn't have any mechanical advance... but its been a long,long time since I messed w one. The thermoquad has some funky vents on top that take power for the bowl vents...I usually just pull the rubber gromit from it off and stick it back in....or just put another carb on it.

The later blocks aren't as hard as the older ones, but they typically are better castings with less core shift. They also have some reinforcements around the block that early 440 in the 60"s don't have.
The 727 may be a lockup...need a different tranny for the build....the lock ups have some heavier duty parts in them...but they aren't really necessary for your build...I wouldn't be afraid of using the lockup for a driver...it just has limited options for a shift kit or any kind of performance.

Nothing wrong with any BB 70's head.
Cast cranks after 72 in all 440s. Low compression engine...probably in the 7's. 500 bucks is a respectable deal...especially if it was a runner.
 
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That very well could be in the rv engines...I've seen quite a few 6 pack rods in the rv 440s...I heard that a few cars got them too...I think I have a dampner laying around here yet for a cast crank w 6 pack rods....so I figured they were all like that...Our first RV 440 had stock rods and cast crank...was thinking it was a 75.
..My Global statements don't usually hold up on mopars... seems like they were good at swapping parts. Lol
 
x2 on keep bore small
maybe a short fill

he said NY but some of them got 6 pack rods
no benefit there just weight and external balance
check for external balance on all 70's BBMs
transgo shift kit works with the lock up trans and you save several hundred rpm at cruze
remember MA Mopar started using the small HP size converter due to lack of torque in the late engines so if not the big converter the Lock up really helps
get a good cooler
late Mopars run HOT and HOT EGT
there are fixes if you have to go through one
 
Mark1972 said:
Ok. So that pretty much answers my questions from my original post. Now, I have another. There is a running 440 with 727(running when it was removed)that a guy wants $700 for, in Canadian dollars. That's like $500USD. I believe it was out of a '76 or '77 New Yorker. Here's the problem, it's a lean burn. Now I've read a few things. What is the difference? Is it electronic? Carburetion? I've also been told the heads are no good. Can you guys clear this up for me please.
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IMO, that is a fine price if it runs good. If your OK with it, have at it.

To Un-Leanburn a engine; (And you will WANT to do this! Trust me. You won't be happy when the computer system suddenly cuts out while driving down the road. And IT WILL!)

You will need a vacuum advance distributor, some sort of ignition, MP style or MSD or what ever, then ether drill the TQ to install a metal vacuum port (Pirate from another carb) or replace the carb with what ever tickles your fancy. The new carb will have the vacuum advance port needed for the carb of course.

I suggest replacing the TQ because there are heavily emissions related and not the easiest to convert and work well.
The heads should be as mentioned, 452's. There iron heads that can be reworked and made into a really nice ported head. Now the question is, would you rather new aluminum with less weight and better flow? Or the factory heavy weight iron?
Your call. But the head isn't garbage. Just heavy and needs a good porter to make them shine.
 
Mark....Sounds like a lockup 727 may be ok for now if a 4 speed is in your future anyway. I had forgot about transgo making a shift kit. I'd put a shift kit in.....no matter what tranny you do...
Fyi.. install the kit before the tranny is in the car...laying under a car pulling the valve body out with fluid dripping on you is one of my LEAST favorite things. Shift kits on mopar are not hard to do..just follow the instructions.
I hope you can get the 440 bought...I think a 440 would be a excellent choice for your ride.
 
Mopars & Missiles said:
The "most cubes" are gained with increased "stroke", boring .030 or .060 over does NOT gain you much in displacement compared to increasing the stroke. Keep the bore as close to stock as you can to maximize wall thickness and stiffness of the bore.
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Numbers Matching Block
The very reason I built my Little 432 Stroker
 
Thanks again for all the info everybody. I bought it. Saved a few bucks on the asking price too. Will go pick it up next Sunday. Hopefully we have nice enough weather for the next couple of weeks so I can tear it down and take some measurements. I still have the 383 as well if there was something seriously wrong with this 440, but it was running before it came out so I'm hoping no major issues. Regarding the heads, I'll just have to see. Aluminum seems the way to go, but with the Canadian dollar the way it is, I have to add 30% to anything from the USA. That may determine some things. It can add up fast. At least I'll have the winter to start getting things together. Radiator, maybe new torsion bars, etc.
 
Mark1972 said:
Thanks again for all the info everybody. I bought it. Saved a few bucks on the asking price too. Will go pick it up next Sunday. Hopefully we have nice enough weather for the next couple of weeks so I can tear it down and take some measurements. I still have the 383 as well if there was something seriously wrong with this 440, but it was running before it came out so I'm hoping no major issues. Regarding the heads, I'll just have to see. Aluminum seems the way to go, but with the Canadian dollar the way it is, I have to add 30% to anything from the USA. That may determine some things. It can add up fast. At least I'll have the winter to start getting things together. Radiator, maybe new torsion bars, etc.
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That awesome...enjoy your threads hope to here more!
Imo if your heads are shot go aftermarket...if there decent shape port them with decent valve guide seals and enjoy.
 
If you're only going to do one engine then find a 440 block and use that as a stroker base... If you already have a 383 I would personally clean it up, seal it, and drop it in and drive - save some money and build a stroker later to swap in when you do the 4-speed

I am doing that to my 383 in my 64 Polara... just getting it running while I finish building my blown 440
 
Mark1972 said:
Thanks again for all the info everybody. I bought it. Saved a few bucks on the asking price too. Will go pick it up next Sunday. Hopefully we have nice enough weather for the next couple of weeks so I can tear it down and take some measurements. I still have the 383 as well if there was something seriously wrong with this 440, but it was running before it came out so I'm hoping no major issues. Regarding the heads, I'll just have to see. Aluminum seems the way to go, but with the Canadian dollar the way it is, I have to add 30% to anything from the USA. That may determine some things. It can add up fast. At least I'll have the winter to start getting things together. Radiator, maybe new torsion bars, etc.
Click to expand...
I hope you don't have to go far, that was a wicked storm you got! Good luck with the 440 build!
 
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