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Converter/flex won't line up 66/67

If you have the off-center bolt on either the flex plate or the torque converter marked - then there are 4 possibilities. But if neither is marked and all you can see through the opening is one flex plate and one torque converter hole each at a time - you can rotate the converter through all 4 positions on the first flex plate bolt and never know if you find a match because you can't see all the holes at once. You can then rotate the flex plate to bring the next hole into view and again rotate the converter through all four positions trying to find a match for one where all the other holes line up - but you really never know because you can't see all four holes in each at once. 4 x 4 = 16 possibilities but it's actually worse than that because unless you get real lucky you may not know when you hit the right alignment because you can't see all the bolt holes and their alignment at one time. It's enough to drive you crazy.

Short of pulling the transmission again here is what I would do, rotate and mark the 4 torque converter holes 1, 2, 3 and 4. Carefully measure center to center for each set of holes and record the dimensions until you identify the off-center hole. You aren't dealing with a major difference - 1/4 inch or less I think, so have to measure carefully. Turn the torque converter and try to get the off-set hole and an adjacent hole both in view at the same time though the splash shield opening. Then rotate the engine and flex plate until you get a match to those two holes and slip the two bolts in loosely. Then turn the engine and insert the other two bolts - I can't see any way this should not work as long as you can see two bolts at once.
I CAN see 2 bolt holes right now, but I will try this thanks!
 
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Picture shows a standard Mopar flexplate... See the little hole at 6 o’clock? That goes 180 degrees opposite the drain plug....
 
Putting a 67 383 727 trans behind a 1967 413.

I know 66/67 slines on the converter are different, but what about touque converter bolt holes location? It's off by almost 1/4 . I've spun the converter twice t

did we get this figured out yet????
 
did we get this figured out yet????
No, ended up hogging out a couple holes, got 3 bolts in, 4th is too far off. Just saw the post above about the small hole/drain plug , good to know! I just need to be able to move the car, once I got it running /moving I'll try lining up using the little hole.
 
I may be a bit late on this, but the attached PDF shows the 4 flex plates used by the factory. This might help some.:canada:
 

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I may be a bit late on this, but the attached PDF shows the 4 flex plates used by the factory. This might help some.:canada:
I think it would help he was talking elongating holes. Downloaded to look and see flywheels, then realized I needed to go to bottom of page.:rolleyes:
 
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I may be a bit late on this, but the attached PDF shows the 4 flex plates used by the factory. This might help some.:canada:
What does "with even" and " not with even bolt holes" mean on the 11"? I've been told they are all the same on BB
 
What does "with even" and " not with even bolt holes" mean on the 11"? I've been told they are all the same on BB
These are the bolt holes to mount the flex plate to the crank. These were used with every Chrysler engine/904/727, with the HEMI being the exception. Prior to retirement I worked in the transmission parts/converter industry. The two questions we asked if someone was looking for a flex plate was, even or uneven bolt holes, and the size of the flex plate. It might have to do if the engine had a cast or steel crank. The engine guys might be able to confirm this.
 
To my knowledge, the /6 is the only Mopar crank flange with a symmetric (even) bolt pattern.
 
Those 4 flex plates wouldn't seem to cover the Hemi would it - 8 crank bolts? But all V8 flex plates still have one off-center hole to the converter - correct?
 
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