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How do I get these frozen rear brake drums off 68 Satellite?

dual fours said:
Did that Old Timer have both eyes that worked? If I was caught hitting the face of a hammer head (think harden) with another hammer's face (think harden), I was told I'd be fired. And yes I have one hammer with a chipped face. Some how just now with this subject, I remember striking the two faces together and a chunk of metal broke off the face and lodged in to the web between my thumb and index finger. These were good old hammers.
Click to expand...
Ouch. I cringe when see a guy with a cut off wheel or a grinder and no full face shield. 15 mins before the end of my shift I was grinding a flange a piece of grinding debris hit my forehead. Then it bounced off lens on inside safety glasses into my eye. Had to pick up girl friend at JFK 90 miles away in 2 hours. 10 pm ER to take the grain out. We all probably have learn something the hard way.
 
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Fran Blacker said:
Ouch. I cringe when see a guy with a cut off wheel or a grinder and no full face shield. 15 mins before my shift was grinding a flange a piece of grinding debris hit my forehead. Then it bounced off lens on inside safety glasses into my eye. Had to pick up girl friend at JFK 90 miles away in 2 hours. 10 pm ER to take the grain out. We all probably have learn something the hard way.
Click to expand...

I've had it get behind a face shield.. lol
I wear sealed to the face goggles when I grind
 
If the adjuster doesn't move you're pretty much screwed, the ridge on the drum combined with shoe facings rusted to drum surface is a lot of friction. Grinding/splitting the drum may be the only option. I recently had to use the oxy/acet to get drums off with adjusters fully loose, nice fairly new Moser axles. Center hole was just too tight on the axle register. After a few heating sessions, came loose. Then ground the center hole a bit bigger. Never had a puller that worked on things really stuck tight.
 
There are two different problems removing drums.

If the drum is frozen solid its rusted to the face if the hub. You need beat or heat & beat the face between the studs. Cutting the pins helps nothing.

If the drum is free from the hub then its froze to the brakes or the ridge is keeping it from coming off Then you back off the shoes or cut the pins.
 
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You should remember that beating on an axle transfers that force through the axle bearings and could ruin them.
Mike
 
I have a stuck front I'm kind of working on.
(right now a harbor freight appliance dolly is letting it roll)

bearing is out, have beat the crap out of it...
bottom moves, top does not
put a pry bar between the studs, broke off stud
 
An old timer showed me a trick long ago, use brake fluid on rusty/stuck parts. I thought he was full of it but tried it anyways and was amazed how well it worked. He used to use the old oil from bleeding brakes... I keep a couple of bottles from bleeding my brakes just for that. If you don't have an oxy/acetylene torch go get a Mapp gas torch from Lowes or Home Depot, heat always helps with this. I would heat up the drum then soak the joints and crevasses with some old brake fluid and go get a cold one. After it sits a while (couple-o-beers) heat it and douche it again and go grab another cold one. By now you should be able to give it a few good smacks with a dead blow and get jiggy with it. Good luck because there's no easy way to do this :thumbsup:
 
O.K., First determine if the drum is frozen on the axle fit. It probably is. Cut the "T" off of the pins
that are sticking out of the backing plates as suggested earlier. This will free up the shoes. Next
is get a oxy-acetylene heating torch. Beg, borrow, or steal it! Quickly, and I mean quickly, with
as much heat as you can get, heat the outside of the drum adjacent to where the shoes put pressure
on the inside of the drums. DO NOT HEAT ANYWHERE ELSE! The drum O.D. will heat up and expand
pulling the inside diameter outward and free the drum off of the fit. If you pound on the drum or axle,
you will probably destroy the axle bearings by putting small dents in the races. Down the road, they
will fail. Heat is the only way to expand the drum off of the fit. The rust has swollen everything shut.
 
zyzzyx said:
O.K., First determine if the drum is frozen on the axle fit. It probably is. Cut the "T" off of the pins
that are sticking out of the backing plates as suggested earlier. This will free up the shoes. Next
is get a oxy-acetylene heating torch. Beg, borrow, or steal it! Quickly, and I mean quickly, with
as much heat as you can get, heat the outside of the drum adjacent to where the shoes put pressure
on the inside of the drums. DO NOT HEAT ANYWHERE ELSE! The drum O.D. will heat up and expand
pulling the inside diameter outward and free the drum off of the fit. If you pound on the drum or axle,
you will probably destroy the axle bearings by putting small dents in the races. Down the road, they
will fail. Heat is the only way to expand the drum off of the fit. The rust has swollen everything shut.
Click to expand...
Looks like heat is the way to go on this one. I do have a torch but no electricity where car is located so pin cutting is out of question and cant move car to another location right now to get electricity and no I don't have a generator nor can borrow one. in middle of nowhere kinda right nows
 
Wizard said:
Looks like heat is the way to go on this one. I do have a torch but no electricity where car is located so pin cutting is out of question and cant move car to another location right now to get electricity and no I don't have a generator nor can borrow one. in middle of nowhere kinda right nows
Click to expand...

That torch will cut those nail heads right off.
Mike
 
or bend back and forth a few times with pliers- old school.
 
dual fours said:
Did that Old Timer have both eyes that worked? If I was caught hitting the face of a hammer head (think harden) with another hammer's face (think harden), I was told I'd be fired. And yes I have one hammer with a chipped face. Some how just now with this subject, I remember striking the two faces together and a chunk of metal broke off the face and lodged in to the web between my thumb and index finger. These were good old hammers.
Click to expand...
How about this, we were removing a track from a M60 tank. One guy did exactly what you said and a chip flew off the face of one sledge hit the guy in the groin went through his fatigues and underwear and lodged in one of his balls.
The guy went white and was screaming. I made him strip down and sure as **** his testicle was bleeding and looked like he got shot.
Had to take him off base to a hospital.
 
569889EE-C3F7-4356-BBFF-0F59F0730BA9_zpszehfcpii.gif
 
steve from staten island said:
How about this, we were removing a track from a M60 tank. One guy did exactly what you said and a chip flew off the face of one sledge hit the guy in the groin went through his fatigues and underwear and lodged in one of his balls.
The guy went white and was screaming. I made him strip down and sure as **** his testicle was bleeding and looked like he got shot.
Had to take him off base to a hospital.
Click to expand...
And this is how close to the Femoral Artery?
 
dual fours said:
And this is how close to the Femoral Artery?
Click to expand...
Dont know. It was a small chip about the size of a BB that flew off and broke skin on his nuts.
Luckily for him it just went in under the skin and ER removed it and fixed him up
Of course we all had a good laugh when he got back to barracks
Now that I remember he was a tough guy, 3rd degree black belt and a rodeo cowboy
 
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