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Transmission throttle lever adjustment

C

Coronet 14

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What is the best way to adjust the transmission kickdown lever. This is on my 72 Coronet with 318 904 transmission. Can this be done from the engine compartment? Do I need someone under the car to hold the lever bracket forward while I loosen the nut on linkage bracket Thanks I didn't set this linkage up. It was done a few years ago by another shop

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Might ask why you want to do this? A simple technique is to determine the rod travel by opening the carb full travel while you're over the engine moving the linkage with your hand (ahh...not running) and with a light view the kickdown lever on the on the valve body. You should be able to see this from above if you follow the rod down to its connection to the lever on the trans. Then disconnect the rod from the carb linkage and determine how much further travel might still be left (or if for some reason the lever is maxed out needing adjustment to shorten the kickdown viewed before disconnecting the rod). The adjustment generally, should be to around 1/4" of the lever's full travel before it stops (no further lever movement). This adjustment will create a little delay in the upshift between 1st and 2nd gear. If the kickdown is mal-adjusted, that is too long, it can result in the carb not opening completely.
 
At 3/4 or full throttle the 1 2 shift happens too soon. If I'm cruising down the road and I step on the gas it will kick down but upshift instantly into third. It's shifting too soon. But if you ease into the gas it shifts fine. It's acted up for a while now. I've been just easing into the gas when wanting to accelerate. I was hoping to see if I could make it a little better
 
Coronet 14 said:
At 3/4 or full throttle the 1 2 shift happens too soon. If I'm cruising down the road and I step on the gas it will kick down but upshift instantly into third. It's shifting too soon. But if you ease into the gas it shifts fine. It's acted up for a while now. I've been just easing into the gas when wanting to accelerate. I was hoping to see if I could make it a little better
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That's one of the reasons why I did the adjustment though I added a shift kit plus going from a 2 to 4 barrel carb. I have a '63 so older gen trans (727) but think the function is the same. This adjustment won't do anything with 3rd gear but if you get the adjustment set as mentioned you should obtain a little delay for 1st to 2nd unless you find the kickdown is bottoming out the lever with the linkage in place when you have it at WOT. This isn't common; can be the case if someone has changed out carbs or done adjustment incorrectly. More often it's the linkage not fully traveling due to a short rod adjustment at least as I've encountered.
 
Carb is Summit 600 4 barrel Intake Weiand Action plus manifold. I had it installed about 4 years ago. I was thinking about having it rebuild and installing a Lokar kickdown cable. I just don't know of any good trans shops that know Mopars near me
 
Coronet 14 said:
Carb is Summit 600 4 barrel Intake Weiand Action plus manifold. I had it installed about 4 years ago. I was thinking about having it rebuild and installing a Lokar kickdown cable. I just don't know of any good trans shops that know Mopars near me
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Thinking on my responses, your linkage and mine are different; yours may be the slide action whereas mine is a ball-socket disconnect but the adjustment you are looking for is the same. You can do a search on Utube for kickdown adj as I saw a clip some months ago showing how the adjustment is made on a late 60's RR as I recall. I'm sure fellow members may know of shops in your area.
 
First thing is to remove that bolt and nut that someone put in the slot. Second thing is to get yourself a Factor Service Manual and follow the instructions for your type of linkage setup. They have downloadable ones online.

Shifting too soon you most likely will need to lenthen the linkage. It will place more pressure on the lever at the trans. The adjustment only needs to be made in very small increments like 1/8" at a time. With your type of linkage you need to read the FSM to go through the proper procedure. The bellcrank has two different areas of adjustment that needs to be checked on your car.

Good luck

Also looks like you need the carb linkage adapter for your carb. (That's probably why the bolt)

Something like this one. (Don't know if this one is for your carb or not)
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-1481/
 
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+1 for KK. Bolt&nut has to go, that’s part of your problem.
 
Coronet 14 said:
Carb is Summit 600 4 barrel Intake Weiand Action plus manifold. I had it installed about 4 years ago. I was thinking about having it rebuild and installing a Lokar kickdown cable. I just don't know of any good trans shops that know Mopars near me
Click to expand...

Forget the Lokar, just get the correct throttle lever extension (Edelbrock 1481) and the factory linkage will work fine with the proper springs.
 
After talking with summit I received the 20-7 adapter. I have it mocked up. It seems like the kickdown linkage it is at an upward angle Has anyone installed this on their car? When I talked to Summit they told me that the Edlebrock 1407 adapter wouldn't work They told me my carb is based off the Holly Here are some pictures I am grateful for the help

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U have to have the slotted lever pulled up against the pin. There is supposed to be a spring hooked to the pin and the swivel that is straight up and down. Also with it being straight up and down the slot should be pulled all the way ahead. I would say u have the 2 barrel linkage as the slot isn’t all the way ahead. The 4 barrel linkage is also taller to line everything up better. Kim
 
I just have it sitting on there for mockup. I figured out I can turn the 20-7 adapter around and upside down and the kick down lever is on a straighter plane
 
your intake manifold is much higher than stock

that's the reason for the upward angle

a 4 bbl also places the throttle lever in a different front to back location.

once you get the general geometry correct (might involve a new or modified cable/kickdown bracket)...

what I generally do is simply open the throttle manually, and adjust the kickdown to where it has no or almost no play

this works 95% of the time

also be aware that too loose kickdown can burn up the 2-3 shift mechanism
 
this is why factory 4 bbl throttle brackets are in high demand.

it solves the front to back location issue, although it does not solve the height issue
 
I've got it all together. I had to modify the bracket to clear the gas pedal swivel link on carb Here are some pictures. Throttle closed and wide open. I have not adjusted the trans kickdown rod yet With the storm last night and rain today I would not have test driven it today anyway Hopefully tomorrow I can adj the rod and road test it.

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there's also a different kickdown "bolt" that bolts on from the other side of the throttle bracket

that might fix your left/right offset issue.

It looks better, though and less likely to bind
 
I understand most of the instructions in the service manual on the adjustment. Except where it says push forward on the retainer and rearward on the rod. Is the retainer the piece that the rod slides on to So I'm pushing rearward on the rod while holding it forward Is that correct The picture in my service manual is not very clear
 
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