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Steering Box install question(s)

Rockett

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I ordered a new steering box, hoping to get rid of some of the slop in my OE steering (the coupler has already been rebuilt).
1969 Road Runner 383 with Hedman headers & power steering...
Questions (my first time doing this):
1) Looks like the battery tray & power steering pump will have to come out. Will the OE box come out without removing the header &/or lifting the engine?
2) On install, do I need to somehow put power steering fluid into the power piston cylinder? (both sides of piston?) ... OR ... is it just "plug & play"... put the box in dry, connect the lines & let the power steering pump fill it up when the engine starts??
 
Typically the box comes out from the bottom... Headers sometimes make it tight but on those I usually pull the drivers side torsion bar & it gains you plenty of room... The box will roll out & down....

When you pull it back in fill the pump, disable the ignition, crank the starter for 15 seconds, tops off the fluid, crank the starter for 15 seconds, top off the fluid.. Usually on the third go run the fluid level stabilizes... fire it up.... BTW it's a good idea to keep your hands away from the steering wheel, if the spool valve got bumped the steering wheel may head straight to full lock with enough force to break your arm... Hopefully thats not the case...

Something to pay attention to, when you start the engine the wheel may initially "kick" to the right or left but settle straight ahead...

If it does that try starting the engine again & watch the wheel... If it continues to kick you should recenter the spool valve housing...

That "kick' while minor can impart a pull to the steering wheel when going down the road...
 
The service manual tells you to start the engine and turn the wheel lock to lock several times to get the air out. It's under pump replacement.
 
The service manual tells you to start the engine and turn the wheel lock to lock several times to get the air out. It's under pump replacement.

And you can do that, but if the pump makes a low whining noise from then on don't blame me....

Mopars tend to be pretty forgiving but can sometimes get the whining pump thing... Ford P/S pumps on the other hand virtually always whine... If you fill them using my method they don't... If it works on the problematic Fords it makes sense to use that method on everything which is what I do...
 
Wild R/T is right about keeping your fingers clear when purging the pump. A guy I knew got his thumb caught in wheel when went to lock, it was twice it's normal size.
 
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And you can do that, but if the pump makes a low whining noise from then on don't blame me....

Mopars tend to be pretty forgiving but can sometimes get the whining pump thing... Ford P/S pumps on the other hand virtually always whine... If you fill them using my method they don't... If it works on the problematic Fords it makes sense to use that method on everything which is what I do...
Are you saying you don't have to do the lock to lock using your method?
 
Are you saying you don't have to do the lock to lock using your method?

The deal is if you get enough fluid in the system before you start the engine so that when you do start the engine the fluid level stays above the pump's internal fluid inlet you can avoid pushing air through the system... So the little bit of air in the steering box purges easily...

Turning the wheel will still purge a little air, but very little.. So after running the engine you still need to check the level but if you do the normal pour in what fluid fits & start the engine you push air into the pump & air bubbles sometimes get trapped...

Fords the repair manual doesn't tell you to fill the way I do, instead they have you replace the fill cap with a modified cap that doesn't vent but instead has a connection for a hose... Your supposed to put the P/S system in a vacuum for 20-30 minutes to purge the air...
 
I thought replacing the box and hoses introduced a lot of air that had to be purged the old way.
 
Typically the box comes out from the bottom... Headers sometimes make it tight but on those I usually pull the drivers side torsion bar & it gains you plenty of room... The box will roll out & down....

When you pull it back in fill the pump, disable the ignition, crank the starter for 15 seconds, tops off the fluid, crank the starter for 15 seconds, top off the fluid.. Usually on the third go run the fluid level stabilizes... fire it up.... BTW it's a good idea to keep your hands away from the steering wheel, if the spool valve got bumped the steering wheel may head straight to full lock with enough force to break your arm... Hopefully thats not the case...

Something to pay attention to, when you start the engine the wheel may initially "kick" to the right or left but settle straight ahead...

If it does that try starting the engine again & watch the wheel... If it continues to kick you should recenter the spool valve housing...

That "kick' while minor can impart a pull to the steering wheel when going down the road...

Wow, just doesn’t look like the steering box can clear the K member & make it out the bottom. I guess I’ll find out as I do it. I’m ready to pull the header, if needed. Torsion bar as well, I guess.

BTW... what is the “spool valve” (& how do I avoid it “getting bumped”?) Obviously, I wouldn’t know how to “adjust the spool valve housing” since I only have a vague idea of what’s inside the steering box. I ordered this box from Steer & Gear, and I thought it would be pretty much “ready for install” ... out with the old & in with the new.

Any further explanations, diagrams, suggestions will be *greatly* appreciated!!
 
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