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69 RR, 383, header installation in my garage?

koosh

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Can this be done in my garage, no lift?
(Back on the cold concrete floor again)
69 RR, 383, 4 speed, manual steering, manual brakes
 
I don't have a lift and have done header installs many times. Also have done many engine, rear end and transmission swaps without a lift. Sure, a lift can make life easier and right now having one would sure make make my gear replacement go much easier with my Dana 70 equipped Dodge 2500.....especially at the ripe age of 68! :D Get a piece of old carpet or cardboard to lay on! I have carpet all over my shop and whenever I see some out on the street (especially stuff from a newer house), I grab some to replace the stuff that's getting dirty or oil soaked.
 
Sometimes it's easier to slip them up in from under the car. Get it as high as you can safely and support it under the frame in front axle in rear. Don't forget the high temp rtv on the header bolts. Start in the middle and work your way out. Try not throw anything when you get frustrated. Safety first. Good luck.
 
Don't know what headers you are using but to help reduce/avoid leaks, make sure the gasket surface is FLAT!!! Straight edge helps to check and a very large flat file can be your friend if they are not good and flat. The main reason for leaks is a poor gasket surface finish on the flanges.
 
I did mine last year in my garage. '69 runner,383 4 speed manual steer and brakes. Front wheels on wooden blocks. Passenger side fell out and fell right into place. All I had to do was take the main motor mount bolt out and jack the engine up a couple inches.
Driver's side, unbolted motor mount, jacked engine up a few inches. Did not undo anything clutch related. Did remove starter. Old header came right out. New left header slipped almost into place, but needed a couple more inches for it to go all the way in. Fortunately I have a brick floor in my garage, and just pulled a few bricks out, and then it popped right in.
Got Flow Tech Ceramic headers thru Advanced Auto, 30-35% off, free shipping. The only problem I had, was the passenger side went so easy, I decided to do the driver's side. Having to fit the original Chrysler starter in place with the new header hanging there, I got tired, frustrated. But it was very easy to do, just make sure you have the car up high enough. I had a 4x8 and a 2x8 stacked under each front wheel.
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I did need to dress the exhaust port area on each header to clean up the surfaces, and one collector gasket blew out, too thin.
 
Basket, that's what I have, the Flowtechs....didnt inow there was gonna be motor mount involvement....one thing different, I bought a mini starter to replace that factory monster. Do you think front end up on ramps would be enough?
 
Don't know what headers you are using but to help reduce/avoid leaks, make sure the gasket surface is FLAT!!! Straight edge helps to check and a very large flat file can be your friend if they are not good and flat. The main reason for leaks is a poor gasket surface finish on the flanges.
I bought Remflex gaskets, never had a leak...
 
I did mine last year in my garage. '69 runner,383 4 speed manual steer and brakes. Front wheels on wooden blocks. Passenger side fell out and fell right into place. All I had to do was take the main motor mount bolt out and jack the engine up a couple inches.
Driver's side, unbolted motor mount, jacked engine up a few inches. Did not undo anything clutch related. Did remove starter. Old header came right out. New left header slipped almost into place, but needed a couple more inches for it to go all the way in. Fortunately I have a brick floor in my garage, and just pulled a few bricks out, and then it popped right in.
Got Flow Tech Ceramic headers thru Advanced Auto, 30-35% off, free shipping. The only problem I had, was the passenger side went so easy, I decided to do the driver's side. Having to fit the original Chrysler starter in place with the new header hanging there, I got tired, frustrated. But it was very easy to do, just make sure you have the car up high enough. I had a 4x8 and a 2x8 stacked under each front wheel.
View attachment 858035 View attachment 858036
Did you go up from bottom or in from the top?
 
ramps? maybe......I never use them. I have had several sets, and never liked them. Seems they were always in my way.
and if you don't have them, I'd suggest using studs instead of header bolts. Way easier to hang the header and put a couple nuts on instead of fighting the bolts.
 
I have a pair of homemade ramps but even though I've never used these to do headers, other similar sized ramps got in the way. I like not having anything under the front tires and usually even remove the tires. So far my best set of headers as far as starters go were a set of Hooker Super Comps. The starter was the shorter (lower hp one) factory unit and was able to install it without having to loosen the header....but you really had to move your mouth just right to do it. lol This was on a 71 340 E car.
 
I guess being a rookie at this job, I dont see how a pair of Ramps would get in the way.......
 
ramps? maybe......I never use them. I have had several sets, and never liked them. Seems they were always in my way.
and if you don't have them, I'd suggest using studs instead of header bolts. Way easier to hang the header and put a couple nuts on instead of fighting the bolts.
But in from the top, or up from the bottom???
 
I put mine in from underneath. The inclined part of the ramp was always in my way.
 
I put mine in from underneath. The inclined part of the ramp was always in my way.
Ok.....good to know. I'll put ramps in backwards....
Any idea what size studs I need?
 
no I don't, just take one of your header bolts to a good parts store and they should fix you up.
 
Well....experience will always pay dividends! Go for it and you'll get some experience! It just depends on the headers you have as to what gets in the way. I didn't have much experience when I did my first engine swap AND header install but did have some experience working on heavy equipment at about the same time. Thing is, working on heavy equipment teaches you how to handle tools more than it teaches you how to work on cars. Changing a 3rd member in a 100 ton crane is no way close to changing a 3rd member in a car!!! I worked for a very short time (3 months) doing on the road heavy equipment repair but had a very good teacher and it helped me a lot with working with hand tools and figuring out how to do mechanical stuff. When I was working for my dad in new home construction, we had a big disagreement and I left for a job doing the heavy stuff. Talk about a rude awakening!! I had it easy working for my dad!!! lol Thing is, I learned a LOT in a very short time doing that stuff.
 
Yes, can be done without a lift in the garage. Lord knows, I've had a lot of practice at it. :)
As others have said, the passenger side obviously is easier since a lot of things aren't over there
that are on the drivers' side (starter, trans linkage, clutch linkage, etc.).
I've found over time that one side goes a bit easier from above, the other from below.
Might be the brand of header in my case (crappy ol' Hedmans).
Jacking the engine up helps a LOT, too.
Taking your time and using some basic logic, you'll get it.

Re:studs. Where you buy the headers will have those available. So do places like ARP.
Hint: You most likely will not be able to use studs for all fasteners, as some of the header
tubes will not allow for it. You'll wind up using some header bolts, some studs.
I like to have the front most stud on both sides installed in the heads so the header has
something to hang from while I work the rest of it in place w/gaskets.
 
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