Bobby Sixkiller
Well-Known Member
Try to find a nos unit. I found a mopar unit on eBay nib for my 73 roadrunner
I have one of the so called good ones made in Mexico. It's as bad as the other ones.Are they all Shinese made? I’m working with a scalable EFI system so I can program the full and empty readings.
I would add, perform a leak test on the float, too.As everyone has stated, none of the reproductions currently available are accurate. Testing the units to observe that the desired levels of Ohm resistance does not give a factual reading of the unit at various levels of fuel.
Some of the units are so poor that the plating will begin to rust immediately after installing them into a tank. The Spectra units seem to hold up although they are not accurate.
Seeing that you are replacing the tank, make sure that the sending unit lock ring is the correct thickness. There are numerous threads out there concerning the new lock rings furnished with the new tanks that are not thick enough. Reuse the original lock ring or purchase a new one from a reputable vendor who sells one of the correct thickness material.
Personally, if I was replacing a tank, I would replace the filler tube grommet; reuse the sending unit if operable, just replace the sock; reuse the lock ring and replace the fuel tank studs and nuts and all of the rubber lines.
Thanks, I just ordered one.my original one just died, period. So went thru 3 repro units from various suppliers, all junk either resistance was way off or simply could not adjust them enough to make them correct. Last one I ordered I got from Van's Auto. Do not who makes them, but this one was perfect out of the box and works wonderfully, no adjustments required. Worth looking there I guess, I would.
I would be happy with your results. What did you have to do to get it to work as it does now? ..................MOI'm with the "if it's not broke don't fix it", but there is a lot you can compare between the new one and the original. Get a ohmmeter and compare total resistance between the two and the difference in resistance at the different angles of the arm. Also compare the shape of the two to make sure they are actually shaped the same. My original in my 70 Bird was not able to be saved therefore I have spent endless hours trying to make the new one accurate. The best I have been able to do is get it where I have about a gallon left when it shows E, and when the tank is completely full the gauge shows about a needle width below F. If I make it show F it will run out of gas before E. The cluster was professionally done and calibrated by Redline Gauges and there is nothing wrong there.
With the sender installed, could you look in the filler neck and see where the pick up tube was in relation to the bottom of the tank? I have heard that the pick up tube may have to be bent to get it down near the bottom of the tank.............MOI would be happy with your results. What did you have to do to get it to work as it does now? ..................MO
With the tank out and the filler neck removed, I installed the new sender, after comparing the resistance which liked 5 ohms of being what the FSM said it was supposed to be. I used some long enough wires to obtain a ground and the sender wire attached to the sender. I put 1 gallon of gas into the tank with the tank adjusted to the angle it was in the car. Then went to the car and checked the gauge. I had to remove the sender about 5 times and bend the float before I got it to read E. I then installed everything in the car. What I got on the full side was what it was. I am assuming that the 5 ohms may have taken it to F. There is no way that I could find to add that resistance.
I had the unfortunate luck to have a non-working gas gage. A buddy of mine replaced the tank, sending unit and installed an under-dash gage. This worked well except the tank was full when the gage read 3/4.Should I use my original sending unit in new gas tank or replace it with a new one. Some say the new units won't read correctly?? I have a new one purchased from Spectra, but still have my original also.
Definitely and I don't know why everyone (other than those with a Charger) don't do it to make sure things are sitting correctly, both the intake tube/filter sock and the rheostat.With the sender installed, could you look in the filler neck and see where the pick up tube was in relation to the bottom of the tank? I have heard that the pick up tube may have to be bent to get it down near the bottom of the tank.............MO
I did that since I have a handy dandy inspection camera. First, I took ohm readings to make sure the sender was good and it was. I still get inaccurate readings with fuel in the tank. So, I just fill up every 150 miles or so.Definitely and I don't know why everyone (other than those with a Charger) don't do it to make sure things are sitting correctly, both the intake tube/filter sock and the rheostat.
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Is this pic , showing the position of components , with everything adjusted to where the guage showed just a bit under full with a full tank, and about one gallon left when needle was on empty? You have provided some great info---Thanks.........................MODefinitely and I don't know why everyone (other than those with a Charger) don't do it to make sure things are sitting correctly, both the intake tube/filter sock and the rheostat.
View attachment 861942
Ordered a new one through Summit and tested it this afternoon....77 ohms empty, 8 ohms full. The sending unit was something like $39 and had good reviews....time will tell if it's good or not.