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Indy Maxx aluminum water jacketed block. Anyone who has one, I have a couple of ??

I run 11.7 at 111mph on stock suspension spinning the tires . Build a 400 so you can spin more rpm's especially a stroker. I have only made 10 passes in my lifetime. I could be wrong
.
 
Fizz66Coronet said:
Build a 400 so you can spin more rpm's especially a stroker.
Click to expand...
I appreciate that, but that is a hard NO.
I want to, no-I absolutely insist on-having 3x2 of "something" feeding the air and fuel into my engine. My Roadrunner is a REAL V-code, and the one fidelity I will not sacrifice to my car's pedigree is the 3x2 intake. That seems to demand a RB block. I am going to start with the $1,000 plus dollar investment I made in Promax parts and labor into the 3 Holley 2bbl carbs I have. I'm confident that they will do a great job making power. If I ever want to enjoy the benefits of EFI, the FiTech 3x2 system is out because it has a 600 horsepower ceiling and that would hold me back. Holley has had a 3x2 Sniper patent application for about 2 years now, but no product yet. F&B has a very flexible 3x2 throttle body port injection system that would definitely handle any amount of power in the range of my imagination, but it costs a lot more than the FiTech, but the F&B may be my only 3x2 EFI choice.
Maybe Holley will fill the gap with a 3x2 EFI system that splits the cost and performance difference.
 
Fizz66Coronet said:
I run 11.7 at 111mph on stock suspension spinning the tires . Build a 400 so you can spin more rpm's especially a stroker. I have only made 10 passes in my lifetime. I could be wrong
.
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actually strokers generally need less RPM to make power. 400 blocks do make good engines though. My RR goes 10.90’s on 50 year old stock suspension. It leaves a little bit to be desired but, it’s just a street driver anyway.
 
68 HEMI GTS said:
actually strokers generally need less RPM to make power. 400 blocks do make good engines though.
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Currently my 440 consistently, naturally "wants" to go to around 6,200 RPMs. I really can't explain it other than it must, and a few MOPAR fanatics have said they believe, it has the 292°/.509" cam. Better CompCams springs, locks and retainers, and the 6bbl intake and headers. Once I get it on the chassis dyno, I may adjust the shift light (5,800) and rev limiter (6,200) down, if the HP and torque curves demand it.
As far as the stroker motor goes, I need enough RPMs to cross the finish line in 4th gear with my 4.10 ring and pinion gears. I have 5th for the highway.
 
4.10 gear isn’t much in a b body with any kind of rear tire height. It’ll be just fine with a 500 inch motor. Intake port opening will help dictate the rpm range along with the camshaft. Your issue will be that a cam that would really run isn’t gonna be worth a damn when your trying to cruise around with the air on.
 
68 HEMI GTS said:
Your issue will be that a cam that would really run isn’t gonna be worth a damn when your trying to cruise around with the air on.
Click to expand...
I have the "infinitely variable stall speed" aka 3 pedal transmission if that helps, and I already idle around 900 RPMs. I love the sound of a choppy cam too. I will have to make the AC work around the cam that gives me the best performance, not vice versa. With that 4.10 ring and pinion, the engine runs at fairly high RPMs because of gearing, so unless I'm missing something, I should be ok?
 
biomedtechguy said:
I have the "infinitely variable stall speed" aka 3 pedal transmission if that helps, and I already idle around 900 RPMs. I love the sound of a choppy cam too. I will have to make the AC work around the cam that gives me the best performance, not vice versa. With that 4.10 ring and pinion, the engine runs at fairly high RPMs because of gearing, so unless I'm missing something, I should be ok?
Click to expand...


I run a 4.10 in the rr. 28” tire, 511 and it traps at 123 mph with an auto. It’s turning more Rpm’s through the traps than where I shift it at but it works fine. I think a 3.73 would probably cause it to loose ET
 
wagonman said:
They used to make a Low Deck 6 BBL, Eddy??
Click to expand...

sure did!
BB472B40-F433-4537-9080-2AE89B08826F.jpeg
 
If your going to run the BCR girdle it's 1/2" thick so just food for thought, you may have to shim your engine mounts for pan clearance and that raises your engine up so make sure have room for your 3x2 set up?. My engine builder liked the caps for my build but didn't seem to think the full girdle was needed at my power point with a stock block (his guess 635-645 hp). We have since changed things up a bit and instead of 11 to 1 it's now more like 10 to 1 ,probably won't see a benefit of aluminum caps at this c.r. but i got them now.
 
I don't think you need to spend the money on a indy block for what your intending to build. You can't run that block as is. Mine required complete disassembly, decking, align hone, cleaning,final hone,clean. etc.
 
Wookie316 said:
526 pump gas motor
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Wookie! You know how much I admire your car "Barney" and I appreciate the help you have given me.
For me to see that you have an Indy Maxx, which I assume is the engine in your 71 Charger, makes me think that much more that a Maxx or another aluminum performance block would be a worthwhile investment.
It would be a shame to spend so much on a factory block based stroker, get to the point where I am getting the most performance out of that investment, and eventually get the best performance out of me as the driver, and find a lot of cases where "if I only had the headroom for a 150-200 HP shot" I could take out 3/4ths of the rivals that I will always be a car length short of beating in the 1320.
But with an aftermarket block, once I get my 6XX HP and Torque stroker sorted out, get the suspension in shape to make the most of that power, and get myself to the point where I feel competent to manage it all, and after a while decide "hey, my friend with the LS supercharged Vette, or my buddy with the 2JZ Conquest, or that a$$hole with the Mustang is only 1/2 quicker than me, time to up my game with a nitrous spray plate system, and KNOW that as long as the power adder is done right I don't really have to worry about damaging my investment, being able to do-or even know that I could do that is so worthwhile!! It would give me something still to aspire to, or fall back on, or just know that if 6XX HP and TQ ever gets "old" I have another step I can go, and in the meantime have the confidence that when I BEAT ON IT (like I do now and know I will) I am not walking on the ragged edge the whole time!
Can I get an AMEN?!
 
Get a motor built and in your car ! Then decide where you want to go or who you want to beat .
My 440 went 10.71 with a ,520 lift solid flat tappet cam on pump gas through a full exhaust , just changed rear tyres and air cleaner from street to race .
My 505 went 10.25 .600 lift flat tappet , but it split the block at 10.50 .
What is your actual goal , boasting about hp or racing ? If its just hp , as long as you can smoke tyres on the street just lie about it
A girdle is a crutch that doesnt always work

Tex
 
Tex013 said:
What is your actual goal
Click to expand...
To get the most out of the investment, and not get to a "if only I had..." moment.
I think this says it all:
biomedtechguy said:
It would be a shame to spend so much on a factory block based stroker, get to the point where I am getting the most performance out of that investment, and eventually get the best performance out of me as the driver, and find a lot of cases where "if I only had the headroom for a 150-200 HP shot" I could take out 3/4ths of the rivals that I will always be a car length short of beating in the 1320.
But with an aftermarket block, once I get my 6XX HP and Torque stroker sorted out, get the suspension in shape to make the most of that power, and get myself to the point where I feel competent to manage it all, and after a while decide "hey, my friend with the LS supercharged Vette, or my buddy with the 2JZ Conquest, or that a$$hole with the Mustang is only 1/2 quicker than me, time to up my game with a nitrous spray plate system, and KNOW that as long as the power adder is done right I don't really have to worry about damaging my investment, being able to do-or even know that I could do that is so worthwhile!! It would give me something still to aspire to, or fall back on, or just know that if 6XX HP and TQ ever gets "old" I have another step I can go, and in the meantime have the confidence that when I BEAT ON IT (like I do now and know I will) I am not walking on the ragged edge the whole time!
Click to expand...
 
AMEN I think your projected power levels warrant the after market block. 650 plus a 250 shot you will be praying with a stock block.
 
biomedtechguy said:
When I get a WEDGE head stroker motor built, I don't want to have to worry about pushing it too far. My target HP is 600 and 650 torque. I am definitely going to have a 3x2 intake setup, starting with Promax modded Holley carbs, and the dual plane Edelbrock/Chrysler aluminum 6bbl intake, with the Indy ModMan 6bbl as an option for a single plane intake. If I go with an aftermarket block, I would probably ditch the factory 6bbl intake and go to the ModMan, and even consider the TrickFlow 270 MaxWedge ports vs the 240s.
From what I have read, that is towards the upper limit of the factory block. I would like the option of adding a 100-200 HP spacer plate based Nitrous Oxide system, to have that headroom should I want to step up who I can compete against in a heads up grudge race. Then again, I may find that 600HP/650TQ is as much power that I can handle...
I am keeping my current 71 440 heavy rods forged crank engine intact, so I'd have to buy another block anyway, and unless I bought aftermarket, I'd have to trust that the factory block the builder used was a good block.
Given the cost of the build, and the cost of iron aftermarket blocks, the cost of a girdle and machining aluminum caps, I don't have a problem given all of the costs involved, to just go all out and get an Indy aluminum Maxx block.
Is anyone using a water jacketed Indy Maxx aluminum block in a stroker wedge configuration as a STREET/strip car?
I may go to the track twice a month once it's all said and done, but now I only run at the track a few times a year.
Any feedback is welcome, including opinions/experience on what a 600HP/650 TQ engine is like driving and racing in a B-Body on the street and occasionally at the 1320.
Thanks
Click to expand...
I have a Indy maxx 470 sr heads roller cam 11to 1,was built by Indy made 650 hp,was built mainly as a street and strip,runs 10s easily,great motor.n
 
gearheadbill said:
I have a Indy maxx 470 sr heads roller cam 11to 1,was built by Indy made 650 hp,was built mainly as a street and strip,runs 10s easily,great motor.n
Click to expand...
10s easily! :thumbsup: :lowdown:
I'm dead set on TrickFlow heads, and if I do get an aftermarket block, well WTF!
I may as well swing for the fences and do the :lowdown:Max Wedge sized ports of the TF 270s, and a single plane 6bbl intake with the intake ports and runners matched to the MW sized ports. I've had so many people say how important the heads are for a Mopar stroker to make power, and for a STREET/strip build, I certainly can't imagine wanting anything beyond what the TF 270s can do.
Thanks for the reply!
 
biomedtechguy said:
10s easily! :thumbsup: :lowdown:
I'm dead set on TrickFlow heads, and if I do get an aftermarket block, well WTF!
I may as well swing for the fences and do the :lowdown:Max Wedge sized ports of the TF 270s, and a single plane 6bbl intake with the intake ports and runners matched to the MW sized ports. I've had so many people say how important the heads are for a Mopar stroker to make power, and for a STREET/strip build, I certainly can't imagine wanting anything beyond what the TF 270s can do.
Thanks for the reply!
Click to expand...
If you’re swinging for fences, 4.500 bore x 4.500 stroke, TF270’s, Indy EFI Mod Man w/2-4 top, twin 4150 style throttle bodies with nitrous plates all controlled with a Holley Dominator EFI. You could top it with a 70 oval Hemi style air cleaner to use with your Air Grabber.
 
Hemirunner said:
If you’re swinging for fences, 4.500 bore x 4.500 stroke, TF270’s, Indy EFI Mod Man w/2-4 top, twin 4150 style throttle bodies with nitrous plates all controlled with a Holley Dominator EFI. You could top it with a 70 oval Hemi style air cleaner to use with your Air Grabber.
Click to expand...
Whatever winds up under "it", it's going to have 3x2 Promax modded Holley carbs to start out with, because I already have them, and unless Holley moves forward with the patent they have on a Sniper 3x2 EFI system, and it has a higher HP ceiling than the very nice FiTech 3x2 EFI/TBI system, the only other possibility is a F&B direct port injection 3x2 system, which can be configured up to flowing almost 2,000 cfm, and the flexibility of direct port injection. One of those, but the Promax modded Holley carbs I already have.
By "swinging for the fences" I figure with the Max Wedge ports, and a cam to match, and a 150-200 HP spray plate setup (I already have the center spray plate, can add 2 more spray plates, or 2 spacers, or a center spacer and outboard spray plates only...whatever works best without melting pistons, plugs, or valves)
What I DON'T want is to have to worry about breaking it, or having to take it apart, ever....
 
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