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Thank goodness that’s out....

mopar 3 B said:
Did you use ready made std coupler or heat and bend. If heat and bend how?
Click to expand...
Well, ideally there are small portable linear heaters made for electrical conduit PVC bending. Know any sparkys? Or I have done it with a torch. Just hold the flame back so as not to scorch and proceed slowly.
Mike
 
mopar 3 B said:
Did you use ready made std coupler or heat and bend. If heat and bend how?
Click to expand...
Lots of heat and STD couplers. Some super glue helps also. I can just say I would cut up pcv and make a form so when I bend the pipe I know it will fit. Lots cheaper and you know were holes have to be drilled etc.
 
All out and ready to start the 8.50 cage.
C8064B35-C164-41AC-A630-33716E0382D2.jpeg
 
Cage time... not too shabby for coming down in front of the dash. I would have preferred to go through but decided it wasn’t worth the added aggravation.
3A498115-0B80-4989-B467-D8C5096CFF98.jpeg
 
A-pillar view. It’s tight to the door but the windshield bar will cause a visor delete. I might add a tint bar across the top of the windshield. No big deal. This will have removable door bars. The old door bars made it hell to climb over.

6B7060DC-2844-41F0-BF2A-EABC86D2ECA6.jpeg
 
What manual transmission are you running, and are there any mods or performance upgrades to it? Flywheel, clutch disc and pressure plate info?
Thanks.
 
Hemirunner said:
A-pillar view. It’s tight to the door but the windshield bar will cause a visor delete. I might add a tint bar across the top of the windshield. No big deal. This will have removable door bars. The old door bars made it hell to climb over.

View attachment 870279
Click to expand...
Friend of mine fabbed up an aluminum spacer to drop the rear view mirror below the halo bar.Yea......no visors:(
 
biomedtechguy said:
What manual transmission are you running, and are there any mods or performance upgrades to it? Flywheel, clutch disc and pressure plate info?
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Built 727, 3.73 gear and a GV OD. It’s a 4spd car, but auto trans now but still a Hurst pistol grip! The GV OD switch is under the clutch pedal.

6BB4391F-5A30-4FD9-B27D-504D5827D816.jpeg
 
Hemi, did you build the Halo bar or did it come from somewhere
 
Hemirunner said:
A-pillar view. It’s tight to the door but the windshield bar will cause a visor delete. I might add a tint bar across the top of the windshield. No big deal. This will have removable door bars. The old door bars made it hell to climb over.
Click to expand...
The A pillar bar looks nice. It follows the A pillar very well.
I've seen door bars that swing out and latch when closed. Are you doing something like that?
 
bearman said:
Hemi, did you build the Halo bar or did it come from somewhere
Click to expand...
I have a bender. Making it all myself.
biomedtechguy said:
The A pillar bar looks nice. It follows the A pillar very well.
I've seen door bars that swing out and latch when closed. Are you doing something like that?
Click to expand...
Technically, they will be able to swing out, but I’m more interested in having them completely removable for street driving.
 
Good deal then it will be right. Seen a couple of them that didn't come close as a good Halo. Had to make a new ones. But if you are making it you will get where it needs to be. Good luck the project
 
bearman said:
Good deal then it will be right. Seen a couple of them that didn't come close as a good Halo. Had to make a new ones. But if you are making it you will get where it needs to be. Good luck the project
Click to expand...
Thanks. I should be able to get it right. They almost need rolled for these cars rather than bent but I don’t have a roller.
 
I hear that again good luck you'll be fine the only thing I can say is do the bending slowly.
 
So... bending up the windshield bar, I decided to see what it would look like to try and retain visors and stay well behind and above the mirror.... it’s currently sitting under the first headliner bow. Going farther forward turns into a real nightmare. Opinions?
25233391-5829-4598-85B7-5F69F799ACFD.jpeg
 
I think it looks fine.
Once I get the deadener removed, you can come practice on mine if you wish. ;D

58C5F5F6-42E7-4634-A523-679A4360F358.jpeg 59D9F021-99C6-4C93-BE86-163F5C55EBA1.jpeg
 
Oh I know I have the power. Figure if I lighten the load some, it should help ease things up a bit. When all is said and done, I should be down over 200 with the aluminum block and a few other things.
 
Wookie316 said:
Oh I know I have the power. Figure if I lighten the load some, it should help ease things up a bit. When all is said and done, I should be down over 200 with the aluminum block and a few other things.
Click to expand...
I was at 4070-4100 with driver, depending on fuel level. I’m hoping to be under 4000 this year. 3800 at the line would be amazing for my pig.
 
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