Dual Point gap setting??

440 4 speed · Nov 14, 2019

Way way back, my Father always carried a thin worn silver dime.If the points needed adjusting and he was away, he used that dime to set points on most things. We’re talking back in the 40`S- 50s maybe earlier.

Cranky · Nov 14, 2019

440 4 speed said:
Way way back, my Father always carried a thin worn silver dime.If the points needed adjusting and he was away, he used that dime to set points on most things. We’re talking back in the 40`S- 50s maybe earlier.

More than once over the course of 30 years, the rubbing block on the points would wear down enough for the points to close up once they got hot and the car would quit running. First time had me scratching my head because the car started back up after a few minutes on the side of the road out in the cold only to die again a short time later lol. Just needed a few hand tools to get going and usually just set the gap by eyeball. When I did a good tuneup, a dwell meter got used. Still have my 'Sears' engine analyzer from the mid 70's but it's pretty basic.

fratzog lover · Nov 14, 2019

Frustration said:
I'm in Harleysville, PA.

Where my wife lived when I met her in 2010. Have some wings at the Harleysville Hotel for us!

khryslerkid · Nov 14, 2019

One thing to look for is the condition of the points leads inside the dizzy. Make sure they're not making contact with the housing when the advancement plate is turned. I've heard of this happening before.

You're looking for something that's causing a problem that you didn't have one day and had the next. Think simple first.

miller · Nov 15, 2019

Frustration said:
I replaced the condenser and no change.

I would not toss that 'old' condenser away. If it's still good, it's a hell of alot better than new ones, these days.

miller · Nov 15, 2019

'Tune-up' on a points distributor, back in the day, cap, rotor, points, and condenser were replaced. But, that was when 'good' parts could be bought.

Two cylinders not firing? Might look inside the distributor cap, for carbon build-up on the contacts, carbon tracking between the contacts, the condition of the coil wire carbon 'button' (that contacts the rotor), and if the cap itself has any cracks.

Frustration · Nov 15, 2019

fratzog lover said:
Where my wife lived when I met her in 2010. Have some wings at the Harleysville Hotel for us!

LOL...Had them last night. That's my place. Was your wife a Souderton grad? I'm a lifer here. Let me know if you're in the area and I'll meet you for some. Place is supposed to be for sale right now. Tom

Stevecurley · Nov 15, 2019

Frustration said:
Steve,

I bought this car off of the original owner after it sat for 30+ years. After a 10-12 year project, I have it running with a 440 and 4-speed. It originally had a 318 Poly. That being said, it ran great for me for a couple of thousand miles. Speedometer doesn't work, so not sure exact mileage, but ran it for two whole seasons, and intermittent in the cold months last winter.

Narrowing it down to the 2 non firing plugs helps. Pull those 2 plugs and check for cracks in the porcelain and check the gap. Throw in 2 spares gapped correctly if you got em and see how it runs. If the ones you pulled out are fouled heavily with oil, gas and carbon chance are the valve-stem seals are worn (assuming everything before the 2 plugs is ok). Simple short term work around for leaky stem seals are anti fouler's. May eventually have to drill the small hole in those things bigger if that plugs up too. Most tell tale hint of leaky seals before the plugs eventually foul out and won't fire is blue smoke every morning.

Stevecurley · Nov 15, 2019

Frustration said:
I'm working on an old, Chrysler dual point distributor. It's been in our '64 Fury Convertible street car for some time. I want to replace the points, condenser, cap, and rotor. I've never worked with points in the past. Can you tell me what the gap should be? I've heard a number of different responses. This is in a 440. Photo cause winter sux!View attachment 862236

Damn good looking car!!! And it's a rag top to boot :thumbsup:

Frustration · Nov 17, 2019

Stevecurley said:
Damn good looking car!!! And it's a rag top to boot

Thanks Steve. After a leakdown test, number 7 was dead. Pulled the valve cover to bump the engine over and check that all was moving correctly... Found a broken valve spring on the intake side. Planning a replacement in the near future. Thinking I got off easy.

khryslerkid · Nov 17, 2019

Frustration said:
Thanks Steve. After a leakdown test, number 7 was dead. Pulled the valve cover to bump the engine over and check that all was moving correctly... Found a broken valve spring on the intake side. Planning a replacement in the near future. Thinking I got off easy.

Good find! That would surely do it. It's a wonder it wasn't making a noise.

You should be able to replace it without pulling the head useing a valve spring removal tool and pressurize the cylinder with air pressure or thread a rope in the plug hole. Good luck.

Frustration · Nov 24, 2019

Replaced the bad spring, and all is good again. Thanks to all for your helpful suggestions!

khryslerkid · Nov 24, 2019

Thanks for the update :thumbsup:

miller · Nov 25, 2019

Is my one eye going bad, or is that two separate sized valve keepers on the valves?
Something new?

khryslerkid · Nov 25, 2019

miller said:
Is my one eye going bad, or is that two separate sized valve keepers on the valves?
Something new?

The one with the broken spring doesn't have any tension on the retainer so you might be seeing the top of the keepers.

If you're talking about the gap between the keepers, that's what you want on the intake valve. On the exhaust valve, some are designed to have the keepers touching each other so the valve is allowed to rotate. It supposed to help keep carbon from building up.

I don't like how they seat in the retainer when there's no gap so I'll take a little off the sides of each keeper so there's a gap like on the intake.

With a gap, they grip the valve stem. Without a gap they let the valve stem spin inside of them.

miller · Nov 26, 2019

khryslerkid said:
you might be seeing the top of the keepers.

That's exactly what I see, but on the closest valve. Looks like an inner AND outer keeper...two different sized keepers, two gaps, though kinda lined up together.
Yeah, understand on the keeper gap, neither end touching, a gap on each side.

Just never have seen that before. I'm one of those, who always installs my own valves into the heads...for what that's worth. Ha!

Frustration · Nov 27, 2019

All the same from a set. I think it looks a bit off due to the way the spring cocked when it broke. It's back together, and I can't wait to drive it again later today!

66Satellite47 · Nov 29, 2019

Broken valve spring not good. Any explanation? Mine was always extreme RPM. Maybe want to check what the cause might be.

Frustration · Nov 30, 2019

I'm thinking it may have something to do with the 17-year old driver that was in the car when it started "popping". He swears that he did nothing to hurt it. That's what I would have said as well. LOL. I guess God has a sense of humor...and a long memory.

khryslerkid · Nov 30, 2019

Frustration said:
I'm thinking it may have something to do with the 17-year old driver that was in the car when it started "popping". He swears that he did nothing to hurt it. That's what I would have said as well. LOL. I guess God has a sense of humor...and a long memory.

Just rotate it and check for valve spring coil bind and retainer clearance. Good luck :moparsmiley:

Looks like we're in for some icy precipitation tonight.

Dual Point gap setting??

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