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disc brake conversion

The only reason I used non mopar I because it was power brake car I switch it to manual and lost the original brackets so it was easier to go with the corvette style
with drum drum do I need a proportion valve still or only with power
 
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with drum drum do I need a proportion valve still or only with power
check out thr ram man videos he may have a answer
 
I just converted my 64 Polara to discs and all went according to plan. View attachment 632609
For the stock 73-74 A and E-body disc swap, caliper brackets and calipers should be forward. Note the loop of hose in cruizer88's photo that could be pinched or rub on a tire when turning wheels lock-to-lock. The hard line end of the brake hose is supposed to pass through the upper and lower control arm more or less under the upper ball joint. The frame bracket end of the hose should come up from the bottom and the steel brake line from the distribution block under the master cylinder connects on the top side of the frame bracket. Yes there's interference to overcome when running a sway bar.
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I purchased a SSBC kit like Al. Worked great, but did not clear my 4" wide Cragars, nor the ET Wheels I planned to run. The caliper rubbed the inner rim. I put a set of "Pirate Jack" brakes on FRUSTRATION. They fit great and cost around $500 without the master cylinder. They did clear the narrow wheels. Decided to purchase a second kit from Pirate Jack (ebay has them). They work great. If anyone is interested, I'll sell my SSBC kit for $250. I'm in PA. Send a PM.
They fit the weld wheels,but when I bought a set of Champion wheels they did hit the rim.Bought a pair of billet spacers and all is good.
The wheel makers talk about OD of brake calipers and all the attention is the rear wheels without a thought of the fronts!Beadlocks don't fit over Dana drums!!:realcrazy:

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hello need to know anyone who has done a conversion on the 62-65 what master they used and where they got the steel lines pics would be apreciated

20 years ago when I converted my '65 Coronet to disc brakes there were not any kits available. I had to build it all by hand and some of it wasn't pretty. Now I'm updating some of my old "hacks". Inline Tube makes a slick conversion kit for early B body cars that includes a new distribution block as well as two prebent master cylinder lines. The lines have the correct fittings to bolt on to a late model Mopar master cylinder. I'm going to install this kit over the winter and clean up the work I did 20 years ago.
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andyf, Could you help me out with the part # for the above brake lines ? I looked up inline tube and didn't find those under 63 Plymouth Belvedere. I'm sure I'm looking in the wrong place.Thanks !
 
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andyf, Could you help me out with the part # for the above brake lines ? I looked up inline tube and didn't find those under 63 Plymouth Belvedere. I'm sure I'm looking in the wrong place.Thanks !
I also looked and wasn't in the cataloge
 
andyf, Could you help me out with the part # for the above brake lines ? I looked up inline tube and didn't find those under 63 Plymouth Belvedere. I'm sure I'm looking in the wrong place.Thanks !

Look on page 52 of the Mopar catalog.
 
thanks for the imfo 1 more question ,did you have to change the pushrod when you switched over?
 
On my 63 I wanted dual piston calipers without breaking the bank. Used Strange Engineering front and back with their master cylinder. I decided to use braided lines. Seems to work fine.
 
You will need to make up the hard lines. There are a couple ways to go. You can source a stock style proportioning valve, or you can purchase an aftermarket adjustable unit. I used a Summit adjustable unit and mounted it beside the master cylinder just to make it easy to reach. Cost is under $50. The stock style will cost more. Your choice. Its been my experience that they both work pretty well. The adjustable unit goes in the rear brake line BTW.

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Centerline, did you extend your rear line up to the valve, or run a whole new one. What kind of block did you use to split the fronts?
 
Centerline, did you extend your rear line up to the valve, or run a whole new one. What kind of block did you use to split the fronts?
Just went to my local parts store and picked up the brass "T" for the hard lines. Used stock mid 70's "A" body front disk brake soft lines. Worked perfectly.
 
I used all Mopar parts. Spindles and caliper mounts from a 76 Dart. Master cylinder and calipers from a '75 Dart and rotors from a 77 Monaco. Everything just bolts together. Lines were from a '75 dart as well. Just needed a little adjusting to clear and work perfectly.

Calipers were moved to the rear of the spindle to clear the factory sway bar. Without a sway bar they are be mounted to the front which should make the lines just bolt right up.

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Centerline your box is full
 
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