Switched from wanting a 4 link to Caltracs in the course of this thread.But sliders or shackles?

1967coronet440 said:

If you took those thin sidewall tires off and put some 15’s with slicks id almost guarantee majority of your traction problems would disappear. I know they’re called drag radials but they’ll never hook at the strip. Rolling start on the street they’re probably fine.

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They were the first and only tires I tried when I bought the 9 x 17 aluminum Rallye wheels. I like the tread width, and no rubbing. My next set I'm going to try will have taller sidewalls. I'll have to calculate the ***/45 part of the tire size, but that's the route I'm going to try next. There's a bias ply M/T in that range, but I'd only use those at the track.
As far as 15" tires, those would definitely be track only, and the wheel they are on will have to fit over a 12.19" diameter disc brake 6 piston caliper.

biomedtechguy said:

They were the first and only tires I tried when I bought the 9 x 17 aluminum Rallye wheels. I like the tread width, and no rubbing. My next set I'm going to try will have taller sidewalls. I'll have to calculate the ***/45 part of the tire size, but that's the route I'm going to try next. There's a bias ply M/T in that range, but I'd only use those at the track.
As far as 15" tires, those would definitely be track only, and the wheel they are on will have to fit over a 12.19" diameter disc brake 6 piston caliper.

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I run a 275 drag radial and at 9.50 I consider my car relatively slow. There’s guys going way faster than me on 235s. Width don’t mean anything but sidewall is important.

Hemirunner said:

I run a 275 drag radial and at 9.50 I consider my car relatively slow. There’s guys going way faster than me on 235s. Width don’t mean anything but sidewall is important.

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Thanks.
It was a few weeks before Cruisin the Coast, I had a big job payday, had been "setting up" my wife to approve of the 17" aluminum Rally II five spoke Pontiac wheels for the GTO, so I could get the 17" aluminum Rallye wheels for my Roadrunner. So I bought 8s and 9s for both cars, front and back. Sport Comp G-force radials for the GTO. It doesn't have as much room for wide tires in the back, and up front the diameter and width are critical as well, so I bought those locally.
So tires for the Roadrunner were ordered over the web, I actually could have gone taller on the front tires, but I didn't want them to look funny with the short sidewalls on the back.
Which takes me to my point...
How to guess what size the widest drag radials would be that would work with a
9 x 17" wheel AND fit under the rear quarters. BAM! Toyo Proxes TQ drag radials 315/35/17...
They look GREAT, and I am adamant about that, but I understand the short sidewalls are a negative, especially with the hit of a 3 pedal car. That is definitely not my only problem with traction, and a number of things are going into place to address that. The ones I have are 3 years old now, so I'll be looking for something different to fit my wheels as a daily tire that does well as a dual purpose tire for street and strip, and I hope the ones I have last long enough to see how they do when
1: I clean and heat them with the line lock I've had for over a year that is getting installed with my Wilwood brakes
2: I install the Hydramax hydraulic throwout bearing and HitMaster launch control system
Once that is done, I still have the rear suspension (Caltracs) to add to the mix, and once the new suspension is in, I have confidence to make a LOT more trips to the track, knowing I'm not wasting my time with badly weakened leaf springs. I'm also replacing my driveshaft (when I do the T.O. bearing) with a new chrome moly one.
Being able to steer, stop, use my line lock, have confidence in my driveshaft, have the benefits of the hydraulic clutch, launch control system....It is a LOT, but all of it was on "the list" and I had an opportunity to cut some good deals, so I did.

My Belvedere had Caltrac mono leafs, bars and QA-1 shocks. Stock wheel wells, 9 inch slicks, rear seat and a stock fuel tank. Registered in CT (driven to cruise nights and car shows) and raced as well. Best of 9.88@135. Granted it wasn't a road race car but it had great street manners and wasn't cut up. Enjoy your car and build it the way you want.

actionange1 said:

Caltrac mono leafs, bars and QA-1 shocks. Stock wheel wells, 9 inch slicks, rear seat and a stock fuel tank. Registered in CT (driven to cruise nights and car shows) and raced as well. Best of 9.88@135.

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If I reach that level of performance, I will be ECSTATIC!
I'm talking to Mike today, but the conversation this thread has generated has me onboard with the full Caltracs setup, unless somehow Mike changes my mind.
I would REALLY like to know more about your setup, engine specs, output, R&P gear ratio...
I do have a question about the slider style rear leaf spring mount. Looks like it makes sense to use that w/Caltracs.
Anybody?

biomedtechguy said:

If I reach that level of performance, I will be ECSTATIC!
I'm talking to Mike today, but the conversation this thread has generated has me onboard with the full Caltracs setup, unless somehow Mike changes my mind.
I would REALLY like to know more about your setup, engine specs, output, R&P gear ratio...
I do have a question about the slider style rear leaf spring mount. Looks like it makes sense to use that w/Caltracs.
Anybody?

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The main purpose of the slider is to eliminate the shackles in order to keep a constant spring rate. It’s an unnecessary complication at this point. You don’t need it.

So I spoke with Mike, and...
Caltracs it is!
Thanks again to all involved in this thread.
I believe that I can get where I want to be, with a system I can actually use, understand, adjust easily, and get tech support and advice on.
And @vintage chromoly will be happy...
Lol.
Thanks again to all.
I'm going to leave the slider rear leaf spring mount as an open question though. Just watching them work really seems to make them a given.

^^^^^^^
I won’t be happy until you get rid of those seats and wheels as well.

vintage chromoly said:

^^^^^^^
I won’t be happy until you get rid of those seats and wheels as well.

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Lol! NOT HAPPENING!
The wheels? Really?? I still had one of the original steel Rallye wheels on the front when I put the new aluminum Rallye on the back...I think they are almost identical, and the aluminum Rallye wheels look better than the original ones.
Now I would expect you to not like the short sidewalls on the rear drag radials, but they were a very quickly decided upon purchase to find the widest drag radial that would fit in the wheelwells and on a 9" x 17" wheel, which they fit to absolute perfection! I'm going to try a taller sidewall in a drag radial for the rear wheels soon.
Last but most importantly, @vintage chromoly, yes, I was offended by your initial post, but I appreciate the apology (for me taking offense-lol). You need to know that this car means more to me than any inanimate object should. I literally love my car. IT IS MY FOUNTAIN OF YOUTH! By "softening" your approach in your comments, and taking the time to explain what and why you were making the recommendations, I became open to looking at yours and others posts instead of getting pissed, and decided that I do have to consider anything that I do that would be invasive and difficult or impossible to undo and how that may affect the value of the car although I NEVER believe I will sell it, and I don't have any children to consider, and my wife won't need the most money possible from selling the car should I precede her to the "dirt nap".
Still, if there is something that I absolutely want and it means an irreversible modification, so be it, but I will carefully weigh the reward vs "cost" and look hard at alternatives. If I ultimately decide I want a wider tire than a spring relocation kit alone can provide, and the sheetmetal has to be mini-tubbed, well that is what will happen, but I will give that the utmost consideration.
Thanks again for your input, and all of the members of my MOPAR family for taking an interest in my car and my deliberations.
Oh, and....

biomedtechguy said:

I'm going to leave the slider rear leaf spring mount as an open question though. Just watching them work really seems to make them a given.

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If that were a video of caltracs, monos and shackles, you’ll see something that looks nearly identical. If you were chasing NHRA records in a leaf spring limited class, or trying to set the leaf spring world record, I’d recommend them. You don’t need them. They just complicate the installation and increase the cost in your situation with no real return on investment. If you want them because they’re “cool” or “trick”, go for it. Just call it like it is.

Hemirunner said:

trying to set the leaf spring world record

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And here's the trophy:


Ok. So shackles it is.
Is there any reason to get Caltracs from anyone other than directly from Calvert?
I have double adjustable Viking front shocks, should I just get the single adjustable Calvert Racing shocks on the back, or....?? Anything else I need to know?
THANK YOU ALL!!

I had Superstock springs of my super bird with a nasty 500 in. stroker motor switch to Caltracs The hook up is great and still drives nice in the street and I can put it back to stock Will be using them on more Of my cars

This is why this forum works well alot of good input and it's ok to disagree as long as it's done correctly. Mines not a rr but I'm going with relocation kit ss springs and sliders not sure about shocks will figure that out soon enough. I look at all the different setups and decided my way which is old school but can be effective on and off the track .

Are you getting the a-body or b-body length spring (20 or 22)

biomedtechguy said:

And here's the trophy:
View attachment 866448

Ok. So shackles it is.
Is there any reason to get Caltracs from anyone other than directly from Calvert?
I have double adjustable Viking front shocks, should I just get the single adjustable Calvert Racing shocks on the back, or....?? Anything else I need to know?
THANK YOU ALL!!

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Direct from Calvert. Double adjustable on all four corners. Skip the Calvert shocks and go with Strange double adjustable. They make one specifically for these cars.

Ceedawg said:

Are you getting the a-body or b-body length spring (20 or 22)

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B-Body I would assume? Since I have a 70 Roadrunner?
What I'm not sure about is the "lift". -1, 0, +1 inch...

biomedtechguy said:

B-Body I would assume? Since I have a 70 Roadrunner?
What I'm not sure about is the "lift". -1, 0, +1 inch...

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That’s referring to “stock” ride height at zero. +1 is an inch taller and -1 is an inch lower.

Hemirunner said:

That’s referring to “stock” ride height at zero. +1 is an inch taller and -1 is an inch lower.

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I understand that. What I am not sure of is what the best choice would be? If my original rear leaf springs are weak, as I suspect they are, I may already be at "-1" inch below stock height. OTOH is is better for say, future "taller tire stuffing" into my fenderwells, because of the way the inner fender curves at the top and gets narrower, to go +1" above stock height. That is what I'm wondering about.

biomedtechguy said:

I understand that. What I am not sure of is what the best choice would be? If my original rear leaf springs are weak, as I suspect they are, I may already be at "-1" inch below stock height. OTOH is is better for say, future "taller tire stuffing" into my fenderwells, because of the way the inner fender curves at the top and gets narrower, to go +1" above stock height. That is what I'm wondering about.

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I have the minus ones on my car with a 28” tall 275 drag radial.

updated video with viking double adj. shocks