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Synthetic Oil

Good point but I worked in Prudhoe Bay Alaska for 30years. We used DELO 0-30oil in all big rigs and pickups. Never an issue.
 
Do you use preheaters or block heaters to keep the coolant and oil warm. Delo has been a proven oil in the big rigs. Many oils are good for me it's amsoil. The product has let my big rigs go for over a million miles without a teardown.
 
bearman said:
Do you use preheaters or block heaters to keep the coolant and oil warm. Delo has been a proven oil in the big rigs. Many oils are good for me it's amsoil. The product has let my big rigs go for over a million miles without a teardown.
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We had block heaters some of the larger cat engines had pan heaters but most didn't. The only issue I remember fired a big cat engine one night at -47F and it blew the oil filter off. After that the big engines had pan heaters. Of coarse the big V-16 Cummins we had on the pumping units had pre-heaters. But they were 2000 hydraulic HP units.
 
Just throw in some mineral spirits to thin out the oil for cold climates :D JK JK
 
6 quarts of this and you'll never experience any wear at all!



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:thumbsup::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:
 
I started using Amsoil in my MX racebikes back in the late 70s (premix). When my son started racing MX he was sponsored by Amsoil so we used several of their products in addition to the oil. I have used Amsoil in all my vehicles for many years and can honestly state that it is an awesome product. My only gripe regarding synthetics, when I put the Amsoil in my Harley (old EVO motor) it dripped a little when warm out the drain tube, when I used “Dino” oil it didn’t drip.
 
Dreamcatcher said:
I guess if it is a which oil do you use thread I like Rotella 15-40 in 2500 ram diesel 168000 strong and in our work horse 3500 ram dully diesel. 250000 and counting and never used with out towing a big load. Mobile 5000 in the cars. And to really get this into a street fight LOL Fram filters in every thing for the past 46 years...Hahhah....
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Fram being a big name brand was counterfeited a lot but don't know if that's still going on or not. One way to find out if you have a cheap, good or excellent filter is to cut them open and look how they are made. That is also available on the internet for free :)
 
Cranky said:
Fram being a big name brand was counterfeited a lot but don't know if that's still going on or not. One way to find out if you have a cheap, good or excellent filter is to cut them open and look how they are made. That is also available on the internet for free :)
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I change oil more often than most as well. 3000 to 3500 miles and we live out in the hills so most everything can be considered highway miles.
 
khryslerkid said:
Running flat tappets I'm useing zddp. I used the Penn Grade break in oil then after 500 miles went to their 10w 30w partial synthetic.
Keep the zddp as syn blend contains 5% or less syn oil. It's nearly as expensive as full syn so I see it as a rip
The Mobil 1 has a ZDDP level of 1000 ppm
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69Bee said:
All flat tappet cams need either a zinc oil, or at least a zinc additive. Your last sentence shows how little of a grasp on how important zinc is in a flat tappet cam engine.
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Zinc....a multi million dollar industry. Are we being had?

 
I can say for a fact we aren't being scammed on zinc in oil.
I have seen the results and we have talked with many oil co reps.
Flat lifters need it on break in!
 
Syn oil for me has been money saver. You guys and girls that only 3,000 to 10,000 per season only need to do one oil change I have run amsoil to limits of 50,000 miles I did a oil sample and changed the oil this was in otr rig. At 500,000 changed rods and mains tuned the engine up and ran it up to one million miles. At year down was happy to see cross hatches in the cyn walls. Rebuild the engine and still running today. Syn oil helps with heat etc other products they have also work great.
 
We used Rotella, Red Line, Royal Purple and Gibbs synthetics and all but the Gibbs worked well and the entire season without rebuilding and showed no real wear upon teardown on a Chebby stroker turning 8k+ rpm on dirt.
The Gibbs was not compatible with running E100.
The RP could be drained and the alky flashed off and poured back into the engine.
 
i have seen many engines go 300K on Dino oil.
...but i think there is certainly a benefit for extreme cold weather operation.
 
An engine that gets regular TIMELY oil changes with yak fat will run many thousands of miles. As long as the lubricant meets spec its good to go.
We had a deal with Valvoline and used their synthetic whether running gas or alk. The gas engine was fine. The alk engine diluted the oil and filled the sump. The oil looked like diluted milk after one night.
Valvoline said not to use their synthetic with alky after sending them a sample.
We found another oil.
It all depends on the use. And on these flex fuel engines running E85 people will run into trouble with certain oils.
 
SGTPaul said:
For the 20 years I was in the Army fixing helicopters all we ever used was synthetic. That's going back over 30 years now when I started. Need that dependibility. Can park on a cloud when you crap an engine or gearbox.
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Do they have lifters and push rods in those?
 
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