• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

TUNING A SIX PACK

For my money, I will forgo the extra hp for the driveability. My car is as much show as it is go. Other than a couple 1/4 mile passes at the Nationals years ago, it don't see much full throttle time. Well, one other time when some young kid in a new Camaro thought he would impress his girl friend. She probably dumped him after getting a lesson from a 47 year old Challenger with an old goat at the wheel.
 
For my money, I will forgo the extra hp for the driveability. My car is as much show as it is go. Other than a couple 1/4 mile passes at the Nationals years ago, it don't see much full throttle time. Well, one other time when some young kid in a new Camaro thought he would impress his girl friend. She probably dumped him after getting a lesson from a 47 year old Challenger with an old goat at the wheel.

OK
 
Again last night,I ran into the high idle problem, after starting the the car a give little rev the idle stays are very high,2300-2600 rpms continuance idle and when I rev motor attempt to kick it down it still stays at high idle. I re adjusted the out boards carburetor rods to make sure there is no hangs up. The other small issue a had is the choke was not open up at all. (even when when engine was hot. I removed the choke from intake and adjusted the coil spring so that the butterfly stays open all the time.
I added couples photo (Choke side) please note arrows. Is there something that I'm missing?

Thanks for the help

IMG_5672.JPG IMG_5673.JPG
 
Nothing connects to that slot. It is for a small flat blade screwdriver to adjust the bend angle of the metal tab that the plastic fast idle cam slides over in steps (fastest, fast, disengaged) idle speeds.
I will take a couple of pictures of mine later today.
 
Nothing connects to that slot. It is for a small flat blade screwdriver to adjust the bend angle of the metal tab that the plastic fast idle cam slides over in steps (fastest, fast, disengaged) idle speeds.
I will take a couple of pictures of mine later today.
And as far as the choke goes, if your heat riser is not working. I will never open. I just don't use the choke for that reason
 
Nothing connects to that slot. It is for a small flat blade screwdriver to adjust the bend angle of the metal tab that the plastic fast idle cam slides over in steps (fastest, fast, disengaged) idle speeds.
I will take a couple of pictures of mine later today.
Thanks bill. If this not adjusted correctly could this cause a very high idle
Looking forward to your photos
 
Thanks bill. If this not adjusted correctly could this cause a very high idle
Looking forward to your photos
That was biomedtechguy that answered you here and he was going to send the pics.....but yes that can cause your high idle. Also check your throttle cable and make sure it is adjusted properly and allowing the throttle blades to fully close. If you have an incorrect cable, that could be your problem too
 
I have this article in my library. It is bullit proof. Tuned my carburetors by it and it works perfect. If anyone needs six pack carburetor extensive work I recommend Harold Demes. He can restore the look and the function. Does a fabulous job. Also has excellent customer service.
 
Thanks bill. If this not adjusted correctly could this cause a very high idle
Looking forward to your photos

Yes, if the cam doesn't move correctly, or the adjustment is not correct, the idle speed will be affected. That cam movement can also be inconsistent, causing confusion. It must move freely. Plugged heat riser is a possibility, although that's usually high mileage oil burners. I ran the blocked heat valley pans to keep the manifold cool. Look for other vacuum leaks, more likely. Also if the carbs have been modified, one of the "tricks" was to drill the throttle blades for more air. Take a look.
 
quote/Also if the carbs have been modified, one of the "tricks" was to drill the throttle blades for more air. Take a look.quote/

All big block end carbs have the throttle pates drilled,the 226 plate has a larger hole than the 199 plate.The center plate 225 for the 69 1/2 center 4 spd carb is not drilled,all the 222 plates for both manual and auto center and current production are drilled.
 
Last edited:
Loosen your base plate bolts on all the carbs and just snug them tight. To tight or unevenly tightened will cause the throttle blades to stick open sometimes.
 
is it possible to mount each carburetor separate on a small block mopar and adjust float level and idle mixture screws on each one?
 
is it possible to mount each carburetor separate on a small block mopar and adjust float level and idle mixture screws on each one?
Float level is different when mounted to the 6bbl intake because of different height of brass plug "window". The center carb and outboard carbs have different plug window height, and I think that matters.
Also, I wouldn't think the idle mixture would be the same on 2 different motors, and MOST IMPORTANTLY all 3 carbs work TOGETHER to create the combined idle mixture.
So....NO...
 
is it possible to mount each carburetor separate on a small block mopar and adjust float level and idle mixture screws on each one?
I agree with bio med. All carbs have an idle Circuit. You could do the center carb alone. That’s it. It would be off a tad when the other carbs get mounted.
 
I'm going to ask Santa Claus for one this Christmas. I wish that Promax Carbs could provide the entire assembly complete with the shaft, throttle plates and their mounting screws....for an additional cost...so I don't have to strip down my rear carb.....wishful thinking...
BOB RENTON

For Promax's asking price,it should include everything.I bought the Promax plate years ago when it was first introduced,cost was $75.00,what happened ? Also back to running them individually,you would have no way to adjust/control your idle speed.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top