When I first started running the 6bbl, a buddy of mine welded/soldered/brased piano springs to the rear air/fuel metering screws. You could turn them by hand without removing the center or front carb. It worked great, but I didn't like the looks of the long spring hanging on the manifold. Now they're set and forgotten. This was done on my old Weiand tunnel ram manifold. I run a stocker now.
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@Frustration PLEASE PM me or reply to this post with as much information about your experiences with the Weiand P3690982 6bbl intake as possible! I have a very nice example of the Weiand, after torturing my mind and dealing with several people who had them for sale.
I'm trying to learn as much as possible and I have already read just about everything that is out there, exchanged emails, and talked on the phone with several people who run them.
Well, that is the only time I've seen that approach to being able to adjust the idle mixture screws on the rear carb in place, but it's so important to be able to make that adjustment, whatever works.
I had Promax go through all 3 of my Holley 2bbl carbs, because I figured I'd get the most out of the one time I was sending them out to them, it matters what gaskets and rebuild kits are used, and they were modding all 3 carbs anyway, so I wanted the peace of mind that they had been inspected and the right parts used.
I had borderline threads in one of the 4 screw holes that hold the center carb accelerator pump clamshell together, and that was repaired, jetable metering plates in both outboard carbs installed, their fantastic metering block put in the center carb, and the angled idle mixture screw throttle plate base for the rear carb. They used the fuel bowl gaskets that don't stick and are reusable, and that is really great for me right now, because I have some tinkering and adjustments to make.
The Promax metering block works so much better than the factory block when you have a hotter than stock cam.
