41dodge
Well-Known Member
Does anybody have a video or pictures showing the installation of the U.S. Car Tools mini-tub kit? Their web page is pretty vague.
U.S. Car Tool Mini Tub Installation
- Thread starter 41dodge
- Start date
41dodge
Well-Known Member
Mounting my car on a rotisserie tomorrow and will start on moving the spring mounts. Then I'll attempt the mini-tubs. Wish me luck.
sabre67
Well-Known Member
watching, doing same on my Duster
Got pictures of the Mini Tub work and spring relocation all in my build thread . . .
You don't want to be doing the spring relo kit on a rotisserie. That should be done on a hoist with the rear frame section supported OR if you don't have a hoist do it on jack stands - again with the rear supported
daytona kid
Well-Known Member
Be careful doing a lot of surgery cutting in certain areas on the car while in a rotiser. I didn't do a mini tub but did do a lot of similar stuff on my b-bod. During which I had it on leveled bolt-on stands to keep it straight, until it was back to complete unibody strength before going in my rotis. And everything removable off to keep it as light as possible.
I also think the USCT mini tub kit is a waste of money since its only a strip with a flange on it. You have to do one butt weld anyway so you may as well save the money by getting two strips from a local shop and cutting the tub and doing two butt welds.
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/69-gtx.51515/page-7
Start here. This is my thread. You might want to consider dehumping the outer half of the wheeltub also. I wish I had done it earlier in the process! If you have any questions feel free to send me a question.
Start here. This is my thread. You might want to consider dehumping the outer half of the wheeltub also. I wish I had done it earlier in the process! If you have any questions feel free to send me a question.
41dodge
Well-Known Member
I'm not replacing the quarter panels. So how do I dehump the outer half? Currently she's just a shell.
I was lucky enough to get a very rust and dent free car that came from L.A. that had spent a lot of it's life indoors. She's a 69 Roadrunner hardtop, 383, 727, A/C, P/S, P/B car that was originally copper with a brown interior and a black vinyl top. I have a built 440, 30 over, Comp hyd. roller cam, aluminum heads, Fast EFI w/ Fast distributor and other goodies. I had Stan's headers build me a set of 1 7/8" headers that he ceramic coated inside and out. I had the 727 built to take 600 HP and am adding a Gear Vendors OD. Using a QA-1 tubular K member and control arms using Hotchkis torsion bars with a Borgeson quick ratio power steering unit. I'm planning on using a Reilly Motor Sports triangulated four link rear setup out back with a narrowed 8 3/4" Detroit locker running 3.55s or 3.73s. I have disc brakes all around as well as SS brake lines. I have a new SS fuel tank with the pump in the tank and SS fuel lines. I also have a complete Coach wiring set-up, power windows, and gray windows with a gray shaded front window and a 69 GTX speedo cluster that I had rebuilt. I'm installing part of the U.S. Car Tools body stiffening kit just to help handle the torque of the motor but since I'm not racing it I don't think I'll be needing all of it. My front lower radiator support was garbage as someone had hooked onto it to pull some time in the past so I just cut it out and modified the USCT piece to what I thought looked good (pic included). I have a bunch of other goodies including a pair of 2014 Challenger front buckets I'm installing. It's been a challenge as this spring I came down with Parkinson's disease and I'm 71.
I used to drag race Plymouths in the 60's and early 70's. First a 64 Belvedere with a 426 Stage III wedge 4 speed that was a factory race car, then a 68 Roadrunner when the 64 became too built up to run on the street regularly because I was running 150 octane aviation gas in it. I mostly street raced but did race at O.C.I.R, Lions, Irwindale and a few times at Pomona.
Durandal25
Well-Known Member
Luck granted sir!
If you go far enough in the thread you'll see how I did it, pretty simple.
I would also add all the stiffening parts, way easier now and you won't regret it.
Your build is very similar to mine. 440+6 590 hp GV Dana 60 3.73
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So before you start cutting, what are you trying to achieve wheel/tire wise. After having done all this work, I'm totally disappointed in the wheel/tire offerings and in hind sight would not have spent the time or money on mini tubs.
In a '68/9 b-body Plymouth the tallest tire that will fit with the stock axle location is a 28.5 tall tire. Sadly, these only come in a width to fit a 10" wide rim. That said, this wheel/tire combo will fit a stock tub with only the springs moved inboard.
In order to run a wider wheel, like 12", you have to go to a taller tire like 29.5 and these will only fit by moving the axle rearward. This is no big deal of course BUT my point is that its a huge effort and expense to fit a wheel/tire combo that you probably don't need anyway.
Just my 2 cents.
In a '68/9 b-body Plymouth the tallest tire that will fit with the stock axle location is a 28.5 tall tire. Sadly, these only come in a width to fit a 10" wide rim. That said, this wheel/tire combo will fit a stock tub with only the springs moved inboard.
In order to run a wider wheel, like 12", you have to go to a taller tire like 29.5 and these will only fit by moving the axle rearward. This is no big deal of course BUT my point is that its a huge effort and expense to fit a wheel/tire combo that you probably don't need anyway.
Just my 2 cents.
I agree! You should pick out your tire wheel combo before getting to far. Back in the day I ran 15 x 10 centerlines with a 5 1/4 backspace with stock spring location and 15x12s with a 7 1/4 back space if I remember right. I moved my axle back about 1 " with my current set up.
41dodge
Well-Known Member
Back in the day, on my old 68, I ran 10" American mags with L 60 16's with no problems unless I had a lot of junk in the trunk, that's where air shocks came in handy.. I'm hoping to run 12" rims with as wide a tire as I can fit in comfortably, maybe 345s. I'm planning on narrowing the rear end and using RMS triangulated 4 link back there.
daytona kid
Well-Known Member
I'm running 315x60x15s M/Ts (which have a 11.75" tread width and 30" dia.) on 9" rims, did the spring relocation which is only 3/4'' on each side, and the dehump, Caltrac mono leafs, and 1" adjustable lowering blocks. Very close tire clearance but no rubbing, yet. And this kind and size M/T tire will make a metal B-body do 60' wheelies on a good dragstrip, if it has a big hp motor. But if your going for some hugemongus rear meats for looks, Right On Bro. You do what you want to your car, I did a lot of mods on mine... I saw someone on here that did the dehump with the quarter on, may have been 69gtx? You just do it from the inside, kinda tuff on the neck, unless it's in a rotis, which again I'm not sure I'd do. I did mine before quarters went on so it was easy from above, with car level... Sounds like your gonna have a really bitchin RR with a lot of good stuff on it. Keep us posted, more pics as you go.
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Again my best advice is pick out your wheels & tires first, then narrow the rear end if you want. One side note, my old car I had to drop the rear shackle bolts to remove the wheel & slick ( 30") to get it out of the wheel well. I prefer the stance where the wheel opening lip is about even with the top of the rim. To do that you might need to dehump, move the axle back or trim the front wheel opening, & have to drop the axle to remove tires. I'm not saying you have to do these, but do check before you get too far.
I'm currently running 325/50/15s
Some good photos of "de-humping" would be good !!
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/69-gtx.51515/page-9#post-910121814
Start here, after doing it I could have done a little better the second time but you'll get an idea. I tried to simulate suspension in a compressed state (big bump with weight) and then went another 1-2 inches for the height in the tub. Really not that hard just time consuming and cramped working space.
Start here, after doing it I could have done a little better the second time but you'll get an idea. I tried to simulate suspension in a compressed state (big bump with weight) and then went another 1-2 inches for the height in the tub. Really not that hard just time consuming and cramped working space.
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