Locodave64
Member
- Local time
- 12:47 AM
- Joined
- Sep 17, 2018
- Messages
- 9
- Reaction score
- 1
- Location
- S/W burbs of Chicago, Il.
For what it's worth. I've restored 3 MG'S thru the years. Made friends with body shop owners that had issues with their cars. Sometimes they come to me as they know what I can do. Tell them your backround. As I know how to repair auto's. What's your field you are good at? How many ppl you know that can work on little british car you know of from bumper to bumper on issues? Also build custom kitchen cabinets. Best I have taken at national concours is 2nd place. That said. Teach me and I teach them. Trade you need this, I need that on a local shop. To this is my cost and your cost for materials, We each cover. That said.
With painting, one friend restored his MG, a rust bucket I wouldn't of bought in the 1st place. Used paint that cost $3,500 in supplys. Bought the best, clear coat. 5 stage paint.
His deal, fix the mechical issues, soup to nuts. Dang, pull the dash and don't label the wires? Re-connect to the wrong places? Splice in a bad thing? Overheating, clutch probs, electrical issues galore.
That said, On my car. Went for a 2 stage. Paint and hardener, no clear coat. I didn't want to over restore. Urethane. Paint at the time cost me around $900. Including a sandable primer-. a very good thing. Get to that later. So you know what he told me. Original paint, dull. But, sticks to the body. Just needs to be skuffed up, issues on paint that need to taken down to bare spots need to be painted with an etching primer 1st. On rusty spots, need to be re-placed with new metal. I'm good with a MIG welder to do this.
He has a friend that worked at a major body shop and did side jobs at my friends shop. Paid him seperate.
See how local shops work? You build a network on a biz, hire pp that are experts and give them access to the shop, they take care of you and you take care of them. Find them.
Once painted, he showed me how to wet sand. Water, rubber squegie. Loose the orange peal.
By the by, painted the door jam, the whole door including internal sides, under the hood plus edges, and the engine compartment. I wanted concours and I think, a 95 point car out of 100 points. When done.
Wet sanding, Anyone can do this. Really nice paint job when done. But, Look close on the paint. Looks like an orange peal? Bumpy. No clear coat.
I wet sanded the car 3X. 1,600 some grit at 1st. Water bucket, wet sand paper and a rubber squegie. Dip the sandpaper in the water, small spots around a 8x8. See some bumps? Keep sanding till they are gone. Squgie to see. See a dark spot? That's dirt under the paint, stop sanding that spot.
Do remember, the sanding includes the lower part of the car. Once done, paint looks like chit ->dull. Then needs to be buffed out with 1,600 grit polishing coumpound and going to a 3,200 coumpound.
Back to the sand-able primer-> 2 stage. Body work is ok. What a sandable primer does.
2 stage, puts on a orange peel primer. You use 1st. 1,600 grit dry sand paper to sand it down to a smothe Then wet sand.
With painting, one friend restored his MG, a rust bucket I wouldn't of bought in the 1st place. Used paint that cost $3,500 in supplys. Bought the best, clear coat. 5 stage paint.
His deal, fix the mechical issues, soup to nuts. Dang, pull the dash and don't label the wires? Re-connect to the wrong places? Splice in a bad thing? Overheating, clutch probs, electrical issues galore.
That said, On my car. Went for a 2 stage. Paint and hardener, no clear coat. I didn't want to over restore. Urethane. Paint at the time cost me around $900. Including a sandable primer-. a very good thing. Get to that later. So you know what he told me. Original paint, dull. But, sticks to the body. Just needs to be skuffed up, issues on paint that need to taken down to bare spots need to be painted with an etching primer 1st. On rusty spots, need to be re-placed with new metal. I'm good with a MIG welder to do this.
He has a friend that worked at a major body shop and did side jobs at my friends shop. Paid him seperate.
See how local shops work? You build a network on a biz, hire pp that are experts and give them access to the shop, they take care of you and you take care of them. Find them.
Once painted, he showed me how to wet sand. Water, rubber squegie. Loose the orange peal.
By the by, painted the door jam, the whole door including internal sides, under the hood plus edges, and the engine compartment. I wanted concours and I think, a 95 point car out of 100 points. When done.
Wet sanding, Anyone can do this. Really nice paint job when done. But, Look close on the paint. Looks like an orange peal? Bumpy. No clear coat.
I wet sanded the car 3X. 1,600 some grit at 1st. Water bucket, wet sand paper and a rubber squegie. Dip the sandpaper in the water, small spots around a 8x8. See some bumps? Keep sanding till they are gone. Squgie to see. See a dark spot? That's dirt under the paint, stop sanding that spot.
Do remember, the sanding includes the lower part of the car. Once done, paint looks like chit ->dull. Then needs to be buffed out with 1,600 grit polishing coumpound and going to a 3,200 coumpound.
Back to the sand-able primer-> 2 stage. Body work is ok. What a sandable primer does.
2 stage, puts on a orange peel primer. You use 1st. 1,600 grit dry sand paper to sand it down to a smothe Then wet sand.
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