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CARBURETOR OR FUEL INJECTION

The Edelbrock Pro Flo 4 has not had a single problem since install. The Ricks Tanks In-tank pump failed due to lines used by Ricks that were not made to be submerged. There are no complete packages available that would include pump and plumbing. It’s not the EFI that’s the problem, it’s the fuel.

There really was no learning curve. No laptop, just a simple Tablet.
 
The Edelbrock Pro Flo 4 has not had a single problem since install. The Ricks Tanks In-tank pump failed due to lines used by Ricks that were not made to be submerged. There are no complete packages available that would include pump and plumbing. It’s not the EFI that’s the problem, it’s the fuel.

There really was no learning curve. No laptop, just a simple Tablet.

What's your drive-line look like Dennis? Mild or Wild :moparsmiley:
 
What's your drive-line look like Dennis? Mild or Wild :moparsmiley:

440 warmed up. 415 RWHP before tiring after 90k. Everyone I know with EFI has had catastrophic-down on the road- failures due to fuel, fuel delivery, or failed pumps. A Chevy pal with FiTech says it never ran at all. I think Edelbrock figured out everything in front of the firewall. They don’t want to touch the fuel aspect or even recommend. I don’t blame them.
 
440 warmed up. 415 RWHP before tiring after 90k. Everyone I know with EFI has had catastrophic-down on the road- failures due to fuel, fuel delivery, or failed pumps. A Chevy pal with FiTech says it never ran at all. I think Edelbrock figured out everything in front of the firewall. They don’t want to touch the fuel aspect or even recommend. I don’t blame them.

Edelbrock does make a great system - but really it just comes down to this. If someone isn't comfortable with data logging and tuning complex issues with a laptop, they don't need to go anywhere near EFI.

For my application, it's either me tuning EFI or picking up a 1050 Dominator tuned by Dominic Thumper.
 
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Maybe you can get the EFI system to work the first time - maybe. But there's still the exorbitant cost of the hardware and fuel delivery system; and the time to install. Drive 1,000 miles a year mainly to CnC and local cruises; no great elevation changes, no sub-thirty-two degree start-ups; stick with the carb and a properly set choke.
And if the battery goes dead in my manual trans Dart with an Eddy carb I find an incline, roll it down hill and pop the clutch. I'm headed down the road. Same battery goes dead with efi, and I'm waiting on a tow truck or some good soul to give a jump.
Last thing I don't get - the electric fuel pump in my 4runner is 13 years and 220K miles old. Why can't the aftermarket make an in-tank pump that lasts at least 5K miles?
 
Didn’t think of a bump start needing power.
 
Maybe you can get the EFI system to work the first time - maybe. But there's still the exorbitant cost of the hardware and fuel delivery system; and the time to install. Drive 1,000 miles a year mainly to CnC and local cruises; no great elevation changes, no sub-thirty-two degree start-ups; stick with the carb and a properly set choke.
And if the battery goes dead in my manual trans Dart with an Eddy carb I find an incline, roll it down hill and pop the clutch. I'm headed down the road. Same battery goes dead with efi, and I'm waiting on a tow truck or some good soul to give a jump.
Last thing I don't get - the electric fuel pump in my 4runner is 13 years and 220K miles old. Why can't the aftermarket make an in-tank pump that lasts at least 5K miles?
Cars with carburetors have been driven in the sub zero climates since there were cars! A reliable choke and a fast idle makes all the difference.
A carbureted car can barf a fuel pump and STILL be driven if you mount a gas supply above the carburetor and "gravity feed" the engine!
My cars don't get the miles that Dennis puts on his Coronet but they do get driven. The 440 Power Wagon has a manual choke Holley 600 that starts in the cold of winter, the heat of summer and every day in between. The engine is mostly stock though so I suspect that the wilder the engine is, the more finicky it might be in extreme weather.
I had a heck of a time with my Charger....Cold starts it would sputter and misfire until it warmed up. I drained out the 10 month old gas and poured in new stuff and it runs right again. A 2 barrel 318 or a slant six may have ran fine on that gas.
 
Yeah...I have about $1k invested in my 3 Holley 2bbl carbs thanks to Promax parts and labor.
Still, if I ever go with fuel injection, this F&B system is the thing dreams are made of:
440 6bblsys.gif
 
Interesting insights into the EFI and greatly appreciated. As a recent purchaser of a Sniper system for my Road Runner along with a Tanks Inc. setup, I'm interested in what the best material to use for fuel line and the approximate length of line required. Also, has anyone used the original fuel as a return line or just replace with the desired hose material?

Jack
 
Interesting insights into the EFI and greatly appreciated. As a recent purchaser of a Sniper system for my Road Runner along with a Tanks Inc. setup, I'm interested in what the best material to use for fuel line and the approximate length of line required. Also, has anyone used the original fuel as a return line or just replace with the desired hose material?
Jack

Sure, the original fuel line can be used as a return line. You can also buy a new reproduction 3/8 fuel line and use it as the pressure line.
 
PTFE, stainless braided teflon.
I used Fragola an fittings, unbelievably simple to install.
I bought the line cutter just to make it easier.
Used same size for supply and return.
I have the Tanksinc tank, but passed on their pump, got a better pump with an fittings, and the 'corvette' regulator/filter.
 
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