• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Camshaft selection 383 tunnel ram

Remusa12

Well-Known Member
Local time
5:40 AM
Joined
Dec 5, 2017
Messages
64
Reaction score
9
Location
Ontario
I'm planning a build for a high rpm 383 with a tunnel ram in a car that's less than 3000 pounds. I want to build an 8000 rpm low deck for somewhat cheap.
I've got a 66 383, I'm planning to get some aluminum heads from a swap meet and looking at about 4.56 gears with an automatic around 4000 stall. Around 9.5-10:1 compression.
I'm looking for what Camshaft people have tried in something similar and how well it works without spending too much, I'm not looking for $800 roller cams I want the $200 hydraulic or solid flat tappet.

The vehicle is a hot rod but won't see very much street driving the most it needs is to the track or a car show.
 
Last edited:
Doubt you'll be able to turn 8k with a juice cam.....but I like roller cams with bushed rockers.
 
My dad shifted at 7200 and went to 7500 occasionally with a .525 purple shaft and torker 2 30 years ago his concern at 7500 was the bottom end breaking before the top end stopped. I'm just lloking for a more modern grind number that people have tried.
 
Last edited:
I built a tunnel rammed 383 years ago - when 12.5:1 compression was possible on pump gas !! Back then I used a complete Isky cam kit which came with their adjustable rockers. The hyd cam had .500 lift with 300 deg. duration. I had two vac secondary 600 holleys on the intake. I put a rod through the side of the block!! It ran "ok" but I personally think the cam had too much duration for the street.

Anyhow, if you happen to be interested, I have a complete b-body 8-3/4 with a 742 center section and 4:56 gears with about 10 passes and 20 miles on it. PM me. (in Ontario so Can. shipping is no problem)
 
Ran 10.60's back in the early/mid 80's running a TR with a 660/320 Isky in a 440 using Hemi rods turning 7300. With decent rods, 8000 in a stock stroke B engine should give you about the same piston speed as a stock stroke 440 turning 7k. Main thing is how fast are you wanting to go?
 
I haven't got a specific number in mind but my engine should be capable of 500 horsepower which I'd think would be enough to get me into the 10s on a good day. My original goal for the car is to go front wheels up. I'm getting a set of eagle H beam rods with upgraded bolts
 
Anyhow, if you happen to be interested, I have a complete b-body 8-3/4 with a 742 center section and 4:56 gears with about 10 passes and 20 miles on it. PM me. (in Ontario so Can. shipping is no problem)

Your inbox is full but how much were you looking for and what part of Ontario I'm in southwestern Ontario.
 
This build has WTB: 383/400 Block written all over it :rolleyes:

You're going to need a h___ of a lot more to run even 7,000 RPM reliably than swap meet cylinder heads & $200 flat tappet camshafts :moparsmiley: I suggest ordering AndyF's book - How to Build Max-Performance Mopar Big-Blocks. None of us want to see that vintage iron block windowed during the first test run.

Just think for a moment

383 Chevrolet:
Complete rotating assembly weight - 70 lbs.

383 Chrysler:
Complete rotating assembly weight - 100 lbs.

That's a lot of iron you're trying to swing to "8,000 RPM".
 
Last edited:
Not trying to be a 'negative nancy', but....
8000 rpm and 'somewhat cheap' is a recipe for disaster. Hydraulic cam=no way. You should consider consulting a professional builder, tell them what you want and go from there.
Maybe @Challenger340 will weigh in; he's in Canada also.
 
So far I've got a ready prepped block oil wise everything is painted inside passages are enlarged. I need a high volume pump some double valve springs, the upgraded rods, hardened pushrods, main studs and billet hold downs, and a deep oil pan. I've got experience with high performance engines I just wanted opinions on Camshafts for this application.
 
So far I've got a ready prepped block oil wise everything is painted inside passages are enlarged. I need a high volume pump some double valve springs, the upgraded rods, hardened pushrods, main studs and billet hold downs, and a deep oil pan. I've got experience with high performance engines I just wanted opinions on Camshafts for this application.

Prep it with a dry sump oiling system? :popcorn2:

You'll need a modern camshaft with a similar profile to P3690588 "Mini-Express", that's likely going to be a solid-roller.
 
For how easy a 383 will go 7000 rpm, 8000 does not seem unreasonable to me. However, considering that you even said hydraulic FT causes me to pause regarding your knowledge. Maybe it was just a nano-second of insanity. Happens to all of us.

Regarding cam, I would argue that the latest in cam technology might not really be what you want, but instead something like a tried and true gentle ramp roundy-round type lobe that is easy on the valvetrain parts and more reasonable valve spring pressure especially if you're on a budget.

Finally, the achilles heel for this deal will be compression ratio, IMO, considering the cam timing you'll need. What piston, compression distance, and head are you using?
 
Last edited:
I was aiming for around 9.5 to 10:1 depending on the head chamber design I was planning for edelbrock performer heads either open or closed chamber will give me the difference in compression I need, the compression distance should be about 0.0145 with speed pro pistons pt# L-2315NF 30 then it's up to the Gasket thickness.

A hydraulic flat tappet is capable of 8000 rpm its not ideal and will have less power than a solid tappet or roller but is still possible.
 
Last edited:
For $200 the cam is not going to happen. Old school solid lifter for that kind of ap cost more than that 50 years ago and that did not include springs.
 
For $200 the cam is not going to happen. Old school solid lifter for that kind of ap cost more than that 50 years ago and that did not include springs.



It's more I don't want to spend $2500 on a mechanical roller, Lifters, special springs, roller cam Bearings, special rockers. I'd rather buy a cheaper or used cam and cheaper springs and less expensive rockers.
 
I was aiming for around 9.5 to 10:1 depending on the head chamber design I was planning for edelbrock performer heads either open or closed chamber will give me the difference in compression I need, the compression distance should be about 0.0145 with speed pro pistons pt# L-2315NF 30 then it's up to the Gasket thickness.

A hydraulic flat tappet is capable of 8000 rpm its not ideal and will have less power than a solid tappet or roller but is still possible.

You might not have enough piston top thickness to cut the valve reliefs necessary to clear the cam you'll need.

I kicked some numbers around, I think you'll need to get very creative to achieve reasonable CR and more importantly good cylinder pressure. I suggest looking for some 75 cc heads.
 
I was aiming for around 9.5 to 10:1 depending on the head chamber design I was planning for edelbrock performer heads either open or closed chamber will give me the difference in compression I need, the compression distance should be about 0.0145 with speed pro pistons pt# L-2315NF 30 then it's up to the Gasket thickness.

A hydraulic flat tappet is capable of 8000 rpm its not ideal and will have less power than a solid tappet or roller but is still possible.

You can have two: 8,000 RPM - Reliable for more than one run - Inexpensive.

Please video these 8,000 RPM test runs for us with a hydraulic flat-tappet camshaft & 'swap meet' heads.

Your best shot would be to find a new/used P4120663AE camshaft & lifter kit [you're a few years late - they used to be $200 for the kit]. Used Isky/Crane Ductile Iron Adjustable Rockers. 3/8" .135 - .145 wall hardened pushrods. Comp #928 valve springs. Most importantly, lots of shop towels & kitty litter to clean up the oil-slick after the first 8,000 RPM shift :D.
 
Last edited:
Just telling you it ain't gona happen. On a similar build in 1973 that total bill was in the $7000 range.
 
We made 445 hp and around 430 Ft/Lbs on the Dyno out of a .030" 383 about 10 years ago ? Pump Gas just using a XE274H Hydraulic F.T. Cam, Ported Iron Heads W/Adjustable Rockers and a Torker Intake/750 cfm.....
but we never need to spin it anywhere near 7,000 rpm to do so ?
from memory..... I don't think we even exceeded 6000 rpm ? but I would have to go dig up the Dyno sheet to know for sure ?

As always...
I think the best way to approach this is to just slow down.... come up with a hp target ? then go from there ?
PLENTY of smart cookies in here that I believe can come up with a reasonable way to attain your goals without wing'in the NUTS off your wee-83 and breaking parts ?
IMO....just say'in....
you don't need anywhere near 8,000 rpm for 500 hp out of a wee-83 !
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top