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Some 440 questions

Mikefallen13

Mikefallen13

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Hello,
First post here! I've been doing some work on the 440 in my '66 Charger, just added a Fitech fuel injection system along with a new MSD box, distributor, coil and plug wires. I was fired the car for the first time in probably a month to get the timing set and start fine tuning the fuel injection but had a few things come up that prevented me from finishing it up today.

1.) Where are the timing marks supposed to be located on the crank pulley? I did some looking today and couldn't see anything, not sure I'm just looking in the wrong place or if its caked with like 6 layers of paint.

2.) I fired the car up and ran it for probably 2-3 mins before I noticed my oil gauge was showing no pressure. I didn't notice any clattering/unusual noises (I'm guessing it would have been making some bad noises if it actually wasn't getting any oil) and there was definitely oil in the valve train when I pulled the valve cover, so I'm guessing (hoping) that oil was still moving around the engine. That leaves me with the sending unit or perhaps I bumped a wire while messing around in the engine bay. Where is the sender located on the 440? Obviously, I want to make sure I have oil pressure before I start messing with timing again.

Any help would be great!

-Mike
 
Oil pressure sending unit is at the back of the block slightly to the drivers side on top....

Timing marks should be visibly from the passenger front below the alternator, there should be a slot across the damper & a tab on the timing cover with marks as viewed it should say 10 5 0 5. With the 10 being 10 degrees BTDC

BTW Welcome to the website..

And how do you like your FiTech so far?
 
He only ran it for 2-3 minutes after Fi Tech install, so I don't think he has a handle on how it runs long term. Put a mechanical oil pressure gauge so you know exactly what pressure is.
 
If you have a 5/16 hex shaft /prime tool . I would use it and a drill and check your gauge no matter if its mechanical or electric.
You should spin up some pressure with the drill. Test that before firing the engine again.

If you have a 70s 440 some of the later cast crank engines will have a damper with 3 lines cut in it as you look around it. Need to get #1 piston up to tdc on comp stroke to find the right line to use and mark it.
 
It may be wrong but it should show something if there is any pressure at all.
 
tonysrt said:
It may be wrong but it should show something if there is any pressure at all.
Click to expand...


Yes but rather than throwing parts at cars how about slowing down & checking the parts you have? The sender is right on top at the back of the engine....

Right where the new EFI fuel lines & wiring harnesses are....

I would strongly suspect the wire to the sender either got knocked off or the wire broke right at the terminal... It's a slip on connector with no insulator... And half the time on these old cars the wire to the sender is half broken before anyone ever touches it....
 
Welcome, lots of good experience here. I would recommend doing the work to clean the damper thoroughly to find the TDC mark. Then put a timing tape on it, you really do need to know total timing, not just initial. Another thing to consider is, stock dampers MAY have slipped, and a true check of TDC & the damper mark/tab will give you confidence.
 
Last edited:
Check for the obvious with a loose or disconnected wire for the oil sender. If you don't see any problems, pick up a mechanical guage and connect it to one of the oil ports at the top back of the engine. Do this before you start it again. If you truly have no oil pressure, then you are likely looking at a bad pump, or wiped out mains. What is the history of the engine?? You've had it a while, and oil pressure was good before, or unknown??

I have seen this happen on a Frod with no noises or indicators, and the mains/rod bearings were dumping all the oil back into the bottom end with almost no lubrication feeding the top at pressure. That particular Ford took the oil pressure sender off directly after the pump too, which I think is stupid.
 
hello and welcome from s carolina pics please
 
If you disconnect the wire at the sending unit, then ground the wire, then turn on the key for a second or two, then turn key off. The gauge should begin to read full pressure. Do not leave key on for more than that, or you can damage the gauge. This will show if the wiring and gauge are working.
 
Thanks for all the replies! I haven't had time to mess with the car with Thanksgiving and all the holiday craziness but I'll definitely be trying these suggestions out. Glad I found this site!
 
And I'll definitely be making a separate post detailing the Fitech once I get the car dialed in and running right.
 
For those interested, it was the sending unit that died (thank god). I really didn't think the mains were bad or the pump died, as the engine appears to have gone through a complete rebuild in the fairly recent past.

I ended up installing a cheapo mechanical gauge on the other oil port on the back of the block. Used a priming tool to spin up the pump and got oil immediately. Now to see if I can figure out some way to get the old sending unit off and replace it, someone apparently thought putting loctite on a sending unit, in a almost completely inaccessible location, was a good idea.
 
1 Wild R/T said:
Yes but rather than throwing parts at cars how about slowing down & checking the parts you have? The sender is right on top at the back of the engine....

Right where the new EFI fuel lines & wiring harnesses are....

I would strongly suspect the wire to the sender either got knocked off or the wire broke right at the terminal... It's a slip on connector with no insulator... And half the time on these old cars the wire to the sender is half broken before anyone ever touches it....
Click to expand...
Mine got knocked off at EFI install time.
 
You might wan to pop the valve covers and verify TDC. Now all the electronics that rely on TDC will have a good start.
 
HEMI-ITIS said:
You might wan to pop the valve covers and verify TDC. Now all the electronics that rely on TDC will have a good start.
Click to expand...
you better explain that one a little better with valve action for a guy that's having trouble figuring out oil pressure!
 
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