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Assassin or Caltracs traction bars? Everything else but DA Viking shocks will be Calvert.

biomedtechguy

biomedtechguy

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Calvert Split mono leaf springs, probably sliders, double adjustable Viking shocks.
The Assassin perches look interesting because they are "no U bolt style" or should I just use the stock perches?
This is going to be a total re-do of the rear suspension.
My main question is Assassin traction bars or Caltracs traction bars?
There are several holes in a couple of locations for additional adjustability for the Assassin bars, gusseted TIG welds, built in tie down loops, and they are said to have greater leverage than the Caltracs bars. The Assassin bars are maybe 3/4 to 1" lower at the closest point to the ground, but that may not be a factor.
What can you all tell me about either, especially interested in anyone who has or has used the Assassin bars.
Thanks!
Screenshot_20191206-130243_Chrome.jpg

https://smithracecraft.com/product-categories/rear-suspension/assassin-traction-bars
 
U bolt-less perches. Pretty cool, but should I replace the stock perches?
 
I just purchased a set of Assassins.
The front lift point on the spring eye looks like a better design.

Having a stick shift and slicks on sticky pavement youd think there is potential for eventually bending the spring.

There are lots of happy Cal-Trac users for sure, and their service is great, just a personal preference.

Either one would probably be just fine.

The tie down hole on the Smith bar is sure going to be handy as well.
 
It was cool when I called the first time today, Mr. Kim Smith, of Smith Racecraft, the "Assassins guy" was placing orders with vendors, but they said he'd call me back. It turns out we shared the same "stompin' grounds". Anyway, it was a very patient and informative call, and I have talked with other members of the MOPAR nation, and I'm going with the Assassins.
Calvert will get my business on the other parts, including the split mono leaf springs, and I may even pay way more for the Calvert sliders rather than the AFTCOs, or other similar manufacturers. That I'm not sure of yet, so I'd like to know what you all can tell me about the difference between the Calvert sliders and the rest.
 
Not sure I like the idea of having to drill the leaf spring for the front spring mount.
 
mopar 3 B said:
Not sure I like the idea of having to drill the leaf spring for the front spring mount.
Click to expand...
Everything I read in the reviews say bit supplied works great.
I'll let everyone know how the Assassin bars work with the rest all Calvert, except for Viking double adjustable shocks in the rear, since I have them on the front, why not?
 
I just ordered the Calvert split mono leaf springs and Calvert sliders today.
Went with the +1" springs since the sliders (vs shackles) drop the rear 3/4".
My thought is that the inverted U of the wheelwells are narrower at the top, so to get the widest tire w/out tubs, keeping the body up is my best bet vs dropping it below stock height. Calvert gives you one rear spring half swap at no charge if you don't like the height.
Now, ordering the Assassin bars....
 
[QUOTE="biomedtechguy,Calvert will get my business on the other parts, including the split mono leaf springs, and I may even pay way more for the Calvert sliders rather than the AFTCOs, or other similar manufacturers. That I'm not sure of yet, so I'd like to know what you all can tell me about the difference between the Calvert sliders and the rest.[/QUOTE]
When I bought the american made Afco sliders they came with S/S spring bushings which are different than the spring eye size on the Calz,had to buy the right ones from Cal.I don't know if you can get the correct bushing from Afco. Also there must be something to the slant in the Calz sliders:realcrazy:
 
HEMI-ITIS said:
there must be something to the slant in the Calz sliders:realcrazy:
Click to expand...
YES! The slant angle alone is good to save 1/2 second in the 1/4 mile! :bananadance::p:D
I ordered the Calvert sliders w/the leaf springs today, and I've decided to go ahead and just weld the sliders to the frame.
 
Bio, sounds like you are gathering the info you need. Smart for digging in and talking to everyone about your choice. You will have to give us updates as you get it together. But after you get that monster engine in it going to have to redail suspension. Can't wait to see some of your updates.
 
HEMI-ITIS said:
1/2 SECOND??????????? No way:poke::carrot:
Click to expand...
I'm messing around with you!:bananaweed::drinks:
The angled Calvert slider slot vs the straight slot isn't even a question I asked, I just went ahead and got them.
John Gay is the first guy I spoke with at Calvert when I called them a long time ago, and he's always been helpful, honest, and knowledgeable. It also goes a long way IMO that he has a 70 Cuda w/a big block putting out 6XX HP at the crank.
He wasn't sure about the sliders on his E body "street" car, but that was 3 1/2 years ago.
 
I went Calvert, didn’t know about the sliders until reading here. Any tips on how much they help?
I went with standard height mono- leafs but the 30” Drag radials lifted the rear pretty high. This is without shocks... thinking Viking or QA1

E910E2A6-4FD3-4652-91FA-C308B5227DC4.jpeg F3621514-D676-4187-8C84-E24AF34DBCE7.jpeg
 
Bigfoots N Mopars said:
I went Calvert, didn’t know about the sliders until reading here. Any tips on how much they help?
Click to expand...
I am fortunate that the forum members are kind to me, given my relative lack of race track experience, and the number of questions I have asked, far off projects, and high ambitions. There has been a lot of good things that have come from their help, and some are about to "get real".
I saw a video of sliders in action on a Mopar, and honestly that was pretty much all I needed to know. Of course I wanted to know if they bang against the ends of the slots, and if there are any real negative aspects of using them on a mostly street cruiser.
The guy at Calvert I spoke with was concerned about them as well, and mounted them in a reversible (easy to uninstall) manner on his 71 Cuda 6XX HP street car. That was 3 1/2 years ago!
From what I've read here, their biggest advantages are that the spring rate "doesn't change", there is no way for the rear shackles to pivot (because there aren't any) and it also lowers the rear stance by about 3/4 inch.
I'm sure I missed something and maybe got something wrong, but I'm all in.
Here's the video:
 
Bigfoots N Mopars said:
I went with standard height mono- leafs but the 30” Drag radials lifted the rear pretty high.
Click to expand...
My main concern why I am trying the +1" is the 3/4" drop inherent to the sliders, and trying to avoid the narrow top of the inverted U of the rear fenderwells causing a restriction of tire width and for my next tires, an increase in sidewall height.
 
I haven’t second guessed my Calvert stuff for one second. I’m sure the assassin bars will work just as well, but I wouldn’t want the lower hanging hardware, especially on a car that may see some street time.
 
completely different style of traction bars
or the way they attach or apply the leverage, or act & preload even

just for comparison sake,
side by side (top & bottom)
what's the difference (????) that's the $64,000 question

Calvert Caltrac's on mono leaf
Calvert Caltracs Bars Suspension $339 #1.jpg


vs

Smithracecraft Assassin on the mono leaf
Suspension Smithracecraft Assassin traction bars.jpg

they do appear to stick down a bit more/lower than the Caltracs

disclosure: following, it's not meant to offend anyone
I've personally don't know anyone who actually ran/runs
the Smithracecraft Assassin bars
so I have nothing to compare it too, nothing tangent, real world
other than **** I've seen on the -www-
(I don't trust everything I read or even see either on the -www-, take that at face value
not that it's/they're bad, I just never seen any Assassin Bars in actual use, in person
I don't & won't build or tune by committee either, I don't tune by phone calls or by the -www-
I trust what I know & have used &/or actually seen work, it could be the best since sliced bread)

I do know & have seen many racers & including myself,
that ran with great success, with the Calvert Caltracs, S/S guys too
where the rules dictate it has to have leafs
(relatively speaking anyway, there's better traction suspensions devices out there,
with mods to the car, fabrication & welding etc.)
both street & track, proven sucess for decades now

not that the newest traction bars aren't any good
they do look like they have a lot of adjustability
seems like for some that tune by committee
that's just a way to get lost or confused "yet again"

focus man focus

sorry;
I doubt any will work very well, or how some would like
with the short stiff sidewall tires & a manual trans anyway

carry on
nothing to see here :poke:
 
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