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Right Turn signal makes emergency flasher light up

Rck68

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On my 68 charger, when I turn my right turn signal on, all rear lights blink like if the emergency flasher was on. Left turn signal works fine. Why does it do that, and how do I fix it so it only blinks on the right side?

I'd really appreciate the help, been trying to figure this out.

All wiring harnesses are brand new.
 
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the current is traveling to least resistance
I would be checking out my grounds first
starting on the right side
front and rear at the light housings
even run a 2nd separate ground from housings and see if that clears it up?
if not, the switch would be my next suspect to check out..
 
how do the emergency flashers work ? all blink or is one dim when blinking that might show a ground problem. blow air in thru the switch handle opening to see if dirt and or cross over voltage is happening due to copper shavings are making the circuit.
 
Easy test: Check all the fuses too. I had a '65 Plymouth that the interior lights would light up when I braked. Bad fuse.
 
the current is traveling to least resistance
I would be checking out my grounds first
starting on the right side
front and rear at the light housings
even run a 2nd separate ground from housings and see if that clears it up?
if not, the switch would be my next suspect to check out..

I had a stang that did that. It was a weak ground on mine. Be sure to check the engine to body ground as well. And the ground where each light housing is seated to the body.
 
Harnesses are new.....new paint too? Newly painted cars can present ground problems. It's pretty common actually.
 
Yep, as posted, friggin grounds are often the gremlins to check first using a jumper wire to create a confirmed new one in the suspected areas. Check your flasher unit and connections to it as a simple check. A bad flasher (as I found out not too long ago) can create some odd problems that run further than only loss of flashing action.
 
I fixed a 07 chevy van for a friend about a year ago
he was having all kinds of electrical problems
no start , wouldn't go into gear at times , idiot lights come on and off at different times
then it would work flawlessly for a while then back to the problems
4k spent , many parts replaced (alt,computer and more!)
2 different pro shops were stumped.

he told me the horror story and was at wits end and ready to get rid of the truck
I told him to open the hood
took me literally 10 minutes to fix
main ground strap from the engine was rusted at the body connection
grounds doing it was dancing in my head the whole time he was talking...
 
how do the emergency flashers work ? all blink or is one dim when blinking that might show a ground problem. blow air in thru the switch handle opening to see if dirt and or cross over voltage is happening due to copper shavings are making the circuit.
the flashers all blink bright and even. i will check the grounds though along with the insertion of the light bulbs. i added new grounds recently to all lights separately on the rear. all wiring is brand new, the turn signal cam switch as well is new. the 12V signal switch is new too..
 
all wiring is brand new, the turn signal cam switch as well is new. the 12V signal switch is new too..

that is a helpful clue
you might want to swap out the electric components you replaced with known good ones
China replacement parts can be garbage straight out of the box
you have current travelling where you don't want it to
its either A or B.
ground blocking it? (check them ALL front to back... ,dash ,motor ect)
or component sending it south>?
edit
opps or a outside chance of C.
a bad harness connection... (a buddy of mine had that problem.. a bad crimp )
BTW
now you have me thinking
who made the Harness???
if it was Evans,start checking every crimp and connection.
 
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the flashers all blink bright and even. i will check the grounds though along with the insertion of the light bulbs. i added new grounds recently to all lights separately on the rear. all wiring is brand new, the turn signal cam switch as well is new. the 12V signal switch is new too..


if you got a re-pop switch i would look at it . i payed 300.00 for a nos switch because of all the problems i read on hear about the cheep switches i.e Chinese junk
 
that is a helpful clue
you might want to swap out the electric components you replaced with known good ones
China replacement parts can be garbage straight out of the box
you have current travelling where you don't want it to
its either A or B.
ground blocking it? (check them ALL front to back... ,dash ,motor ect)
or component sending it south>?
edit
opps or a outside chance of C.
a bad harness connection... (a buddy of mine had that problem.. a bad crimp )
BTW
now you have me thinking
who made the Harness???
if it was Evans,start checking every crimp and connection.
harness from year one made by m&h resto parts. i agree with the cheap chinese stuff lol i'll def check all grounding again, and crimping.

you all are so helpful! what a nice intro to the community!
 
Double check ALL bulbs, one may be slightly dimmer than the others, had that problem abut 4 yrs. ago. Good Luck.:thumbsup:
 
Whatever it turns out to be, get the NAPA solid state flasher.
 
Had a similar issue when rebuilding my 70 column on the B about 2 years ago. Drove me crazy until I compared the wiring connection at the hazard block on the new switch to my old one. Wasn't even close. Ordered turn signal switch for a 70 but I'm not so sure all or most of the switches sold are for 71+ models. I didn't care that the hazard knob was different as I drilled out the rivets, swapped pull knob, and riveted back together.
What I found later was that the wires are hooked up opposite on that block from the original. I believe I called the vendor and was told they are all the same. I carefully drilled the copper rivets that held the wire ends in place to remove, then swapped wires end to end. There is a connector strap on one side that needed rotated before gently hammering new copper rivets into the wire ends to reconnect. That fixed my problem, not saying that's the same issue you have but worth looking into.
In this pic the solid looking rivets are the places that had to be switched over. This is the finished job.

20151126_114453.jpg
 
the current is traveling to least resistance
I would be checking out my grounds first
starting on the right side
front and rear at the light housings
even run a 2nd separate ground from housings and see if that clears it up?
if not, the switch would be my next suspect to check out..
That’s what it was on the right side! One of the groundings I had added was actually impeding current flow, I disconnected it and works perfect! Thank you and everyone!
 
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