Suspension questions/recommendations Hellcat Swapped 64 dodge 440.

I picked up a 64 Dodge drag car last year and ran it with the 572 until I decided to make a change. I run a Modern Street Hemi Shootout series with my Hellcat and wanted to run this car in it so out came the 572 and in went the Hellcat engine.

So far car has been a few 9.20-9.30 passes pretty easily and if I ever get a few more things sorted out ie clean tach signal for shifter, converter and most importantly the suspension,I know with tuning I will see 8.90s for sure.

The last time out It left to the right a bit and I kinda shrugged it off, then the next pass it went hard right at the hit. it bent the passenger side lower ladder bar bracket and the pass side bumber corner almost hit the ground. I am not sure if the axle tube twisted or what (the old dana didn't have the tubes welded).


The car has a Gerst front end with Viking double adjustable Coil overs and I just put a new moser dana with new ladder bars and new viking double adjustable.


Now before I go out, I am trying to make sure everything is at a great starting point as far as laddder bars, preload, shock seetings and such.

I am going to try to attach pics but this is how the car is sitting right now with no preload although I think I need to make sure the front end is leveled. This is empty and I am about 190lbs.


LF 903 RF 932
LR 686 RR 809
total 3512

Thats where I am asking for input. ANy recommendations on ladder bar settings, shock settings, ride height etc.

Sorry for the long post.

THAT would scare the crap out of me!

I’ve never gone that quick but I would start by checking the chassis out on a flat surface. Checking for straight and squareness. That all the mounting points are all the same height and square with the centerline of the car. If you’re really serious about doing it yourself find the book called “doorslammers” It walks you through all the steps the build and diagnose the problems you are having. Get a good understanding of what the components do before changing settings. Just because someone else has something setup a certain way doesn’t mean it will work with your car. Only make one change at a time. Keep a record of your measurements also, for later when you want to confirm the car is not twisting. Or in most cases twisting more. This is one of those things that isn’t very glamorous to do but will tell you allot about your car.

Check housing, mounts, bars for square. I'm assuming the weak points have already been repaired and gusseted. Make sure heims are good. Make sure the housing is square car C/L. Start on a level surface. Add driver or equivalent weight weight for all the follwing adjustments. Jack the rear of the ground in the center. With the rear wheels in the air level the front suspension with the coil adjusters. I'd start with the ladder bar pivot about 7.5"-8.0" off the ground. Adjust bar location or body ride height as needed together there. With the car on the ground set pinion angle
1 1/2 degrees down, pinion to trans output shaft will work. Now remove the right ladder bar pivot bolt. Adjust bar so the bolt slides on and out easily. A couple ratchet straps to keep the housing from moving fore/aft is helpful. Now scale the car. There is zero preload. Add preload by lengthening the right ladder bar until it's about 25lbs heavier on the right rear vs left to rear. Count how many flats of the adjuster it took to get there, record it. Record all 4 heights at the corners, wheel lips, rockers, what ever is easiest. The rear probably wont be dead level. Not an issue. If it made it down the track with the old shock settings start there. For comparison; mine 1.25, 5.72@121, 9.00@150 best 54% on the nose, 10.5x31 tire
Dou

dvw said:

Check housing, mounts, bars for square. I'm assuming the weak points have already been repaired and gusseted. Make sure heims are good. Make sure the housing is square car C/L. Start on a level surface. Add driver or equivalent weight weight for all the follwing adjustments. Jack the rear of the ground in the center. With the rear wheels in the air level the front suspension with the coil adjusters. I'd start with the ladder bar pivot about 7.5"-8.0" off the ground. Adjust bar location or body ride height as needed together there. With the car on the ground set pinion angle
1 1/2 degrees down, pinion to trans output shaft will work. Now remove the right ladder bar pivot bolt. Adjust bar so the bolt slides on and out easily. A couple ratchet straps to keep the housing from moving fore/aft is helpful. Now scale the car. There is zero preload. Add preload by lengthening the right ladder bar until it's about 25lbs heavier on the right rear vs left to rear. Count how many flats of the adjuster it took to get there, record it. Record all 4 heights at the corners, wheel lips, rockers, what ever is easiest. The rear probably wont be dead level. Not an issue. If it made it down the track with the old shock settings start there. For comparison; mine 1.25, 5.72@121, 9.00@150 best 54% on the nose, 10.5x31 tire
Dou

Click to expand...

Thanks
One thing I noticed above is I fat fingered the weights... its actually
LF 903 RF 932
LR 868 RR 809
total 3512

So even without me in it, it is heavy on the driver rear. The rear is all new with all new ladder bars and brackets. I helped a buddy who does this kind of stuff and I am sure its square as I feel like we measured a 100 things a 100 times. HAHA.

I really do think the old axle tube spun. Hopefully this will get me all fixed up