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Ideas on repairing stripped sheet metal screw holes??

hunt2elk

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One of the previous owners of my car got a little carried away tightening the screws for the rear view mirror as well as a couple of the sun visor screws. Anyway, the car is painted and I really don't want to take a chance welding and redrilling them. Anybody have a good solution to repairing these holes that can't be accessed from the back? They are a #10 shank with a #8 head, so no room to use a bigger diameter screw.
 
JB as suggested or just take a few 1/2" lengths of mechanics wire, bend them tight and slip them into the holes.
 
Wrap some tin around the screws or try to pack the hole. The JB weld is a good idea as well.
 
Short pieces of fishing line. Make a loop and poke it in the hole then insert the screw.
 
Stick a small cotter key in the hole. One leg inside, one leg outside. On the outside you can cut the leg down to 1/8" in length. The round end of the key fills part of the hole. Use the original screw.
Doug
 
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https://www.amazon.com/rivet-thread...locphy=200504&hvtargid=pla-568579111373&psc=1
 
Rivnuts.. use them all the time on aircraft fairings and control covers, but they are machine thread only AFAIK. They will also spin and drive you absolutely apeshit if you don't key them in place or bond them.
 
Not gonna lie....that is pretty cool!

First time I used them was back in the late seventies working at a dealership. Mounted the optional luggage racks on top of the wagons with the threaded inserts. I've used them many times since working with sheet metal. They're like a threaded pop rivet. There is a pneumatic one also.
 
A lot of the time when a sheet metal screw is over tightened it pulls the metal out and if it is tap back and slightly in it will hold the screw
 
I'm telling you guys don't mess around. For a simple hole the cotter key is foolproof. Smaller the hole, smaller the cotter key. Try it, you'll like it. Rivnuts have there place and are great as well. Just not always necessary.
Doug
 
Stick a small cotter key in the hole. One leg inside, one leg outside. On the outside you can cut the leg down to 1/8" in length. The round end of the key fills part of the hole. Use the original screw.
Doug
I like this idea. Are you saying that you put a 90* bend on each leg, then push the round end into the hole? The 2 bent legs stick out and hold the pin from falling into the hole?
 
Step one, insert key. Step two, trim top side of key so it doesnt show after tightening. Step three, put the scew in.
Doug
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