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Ideas on repairing stripped sheet metal screw holes??

Some true values have them and the tool also prob under $15
 
Jam steel wool in screw hole,then insert screw.
Have used this in past,works for me.
 
Fill screw hole full of steel wool,insert screw.
Works most of time
 
The ideal sheet metal hole is a taypered one. With a stripped hole you want to hammer it flat again. Then finding the right size punch, back up the hole with something solid with a hole in it and use the punch to tayper the hole inward. Might have to go one size larger screw but the taypered hole has more area for the threads to bite into. Never understood why they don't use this more with items that need more support.

Another good fix provided you can get to the back of the panel is a U-clip or a stamped nut.
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shopping.jpeg
 
You can set any nutsert with a bolt two washers and a nut
put the nut on then two washers thread into the nutsert
put in place hold bolt and use nut to compress the nutsert
 
bm02tj said:
You can set any nutsert with a bolt two washers and a nut
put the nut on then two washers thread into the nutsert
put in place hold bolt and use nut to compress the nutsert
Click to expand...
But, I like to buy tools!
Mike
 
You guys are forgetting that I can't get behind these holes, otherwise it would be an easy fix. Anyway, went with Doug's recommendation and used a couple of small cotter pins. I put a dab of epoxy on the legs just so they don't fall out when I remove the screws after the headliner is in.

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Bunch of great ideas in here.

I am dealing with a ton of blown out holes in my engine compartment where random screws were used over the years.
 
I replace as many holes as possible with nutserts, usually use either #8 or #10 size screws (many of the screws in these cars are #8). However, for things like door panels I have found that using a long welding clamp (think long vise grips) I can get inside the door and flatten the holes for the door panels which will allow you to use the stock sheet metal type screws. Inside the engine compartment I pretty much replace all of the screws with nutserts, love them. Someone stated that they need to be "keyed" or bonded, this has not been my experience at all, I use splined nutserts and seldom if ever have one spin, perhaps on AC where the nutserts are going into aluminum keying or bonding would be required.
 
All of those idea's are okay and I have done it all, but the rivet nut is way to go for the a repair that will never give you a headache again. That's why I bought the set, well worth the money.
 
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