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Upper ball joint recommendation

Looks like you have clearance there. I would call Dr Diff and see if there’s anything special you need with that spindle, make sure OE ball joint is the recommended parts.
 
I have the Doctor Diff spindles and brakes on front and rear with upper and lower Spicer/Raybestos Professional "Blue" Series ball joints. They came in a kit from Bill Rolik. These photos are from today with the suspension at full sag.

http://www.billrolikenterprises.com/proddetail.asp?prod=204

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themechanic, that is a huge difference if you look at your pics and mine. I called Dr Diff today and he said that there has never been an issue before. He thinks it may be from a year of suspension sag. But looking at your pics, there is much more room between the ball joint and the spindle. I am sending these ball joints back to RockAuto and hopefully the new ones will not have the same problem.
 
The picture says it all, not a ball joint problem, it is a problem with those spindles,you have to fix that first, or you will have a money pit there, no make of ball joint will correct that. Does anybody out there have a 67 coronet or road runner and take a few picture and forward to help
diesel_lv out. You may have to visit your local machine shop, once you get some pictures to compare.
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I have the Doctor Diff spindles and brakes on front and rear with upper and lower Spicer/Raybestos Professional "Blue" Series ball joints. They came in a kit from Bill Rolik. These photos are from today with the suspension at full sag.

http://www.billrolikenterprises.com/proddetail.asp?prod=204

View attachment 881525 View attachment 881526 View attachment 881527
themechanic, can you measure the top part of the spindle? From the machined upper surface to where the nut for the ball joint tightens to. I know they are probably different due to different models, but maybe it can give me some reference. Thank you.
 
I sent an email to DrDiff this evening around 9pm and attached my 2 pics and themechanic's pics. He replied back this same night and said it definitely does not look right. Gave me some measurements to take tomorrow morning when I disassemble the upper control arm from the spindle. That is what I call customer service.
 
Does the cotter pin align with the castle nut....ie, does the pin hang down from the edge of the slots as if the ball joint stud is too long? This is a trait of stuff made in China and sometimes the taper makes the knuckle sit too close to the upper control arm which will mess up the boot. Did the boxes say the parts were made in China?
 
themechanic, yes Cass got me the info. Once I finish my coffee, I'll go disconnect the control arm n take measurements for him.
Cranky, yes the cotter pin is inside the castelations. Threw boxes away last Jan.
 
Here is the ball joint. It begins to taper immediately under the ball. Cass at Dr Diff measured a known good one and it should have approximately 0.6" beneath the ball before it begins to taper. Definitely bad/incorrect ball jounts.
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Here is the ball joint. It begins to taper immediately under the ball. Cass at Dr Diff measured a known good one and it should have approximately 0.6" beneath the ball before it begins to taper. Definitely bad/incorrect ball jounts.View attachment 881949
I have an OEM upper joint here and the stem is right at 2 3/4" long from the body edge and it has at least .600" of straight stem before the taper starts.
 
Here is the ball joint. It begins to taper immediately under the ball. Cass at Dr Diff measured a known good one and it should have approximately 0.6" beneath the ball before it begins to taper. Definitely bad/incorrect ball jounts.View attachment 881949

For comparison, re the described shouldered/tapered areas, here’s a photo of a removed OE upper ball joint from my ‘69 RR. Believe it’s the same as your ‘67. Hope it helps....Jim

F821B0CB-537B-4CC7-8878-3D2CEEC8264F.jpeg
 
For comparison, re the described shouldered/tapered areas, here’s a photo of a removed OE upper ball joint from my ‘69 RR. Believe it’s the same as your ‘67. Hope it helps....Jim

View attachment 882081
I measured from the edge of the threaded body......so that one should be pretty close to the same...
 
Got the new ball joints from Rockauto. They are the correct length with the correct taper. Installed and no more pinch. Thanks everyone for the help.
 
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