Stock vs Aftermarket Disc Brake Conversion

Whatever system you go for use a power booster it makes the car a lot easier to drive.

Hi vektro69, A few points for you to consider on your brake conversion. If you are just looking to improve braking over the stock drum system an OEM style system or kit in my opinion is the best choice. The largest diameter rotor with a single piston, floater caliper that will fit in your wheel will give you the best bang for your buck. Non-floater calipers with inner and outer pistons typically require more wheel clearance on the lug side and this usually drives smaller diameter rotors.

I don't have a lot of experience with conversion brake kits but I do have experience with high performance brakes. In my experience regardless of the caliper design an OEM unit will be difficult to improve upon without spending big bucks. The aftermarket units may be prettier or lighter but often are not engineered as well as the OEM designs.

Where ever you decide to purchase from in my opinion a kit that utilizes OEM components is your best choice, unless your'e going for the look, Brian

steve340 said:

Whatever system you go for use a power booster it makes the car a lot easier to drive.

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I have decided to keep my manual brakes, even with the new Wilwood master cylinder. I chose a diameter master cylinder that will give me some pedal travel. I can't stand brakes that work and feel like a light switch...on or off.
I think I can better modulate braking force with manual brakes, and I don't have to worry about how much vacuum I have or lack.
6 piston calipers on all 4 corners, 12.88 drilled, slotted front discs, 12.19 drilled, slotted rear discs, w/parking brake drum.
Installation coming soon.

I think from all this great info here, that I have narrowed things down. The 11.75 rotors are what I think are a good choice. Stock single piston likely stops as well as, a 4 piston wildwood. Wilwood does look cool, has a certain cache with car guys, but is it worth another $230?
I think it's Dr Diff 11.75 kit with either stock or Wilwood calipers. This gives me a bigger ,thicker rotor than going all Wilwood. Are Wilwoods calipers that much better? Worth the extra $$? worth getting a different master than the Dr Diff? Maybe a high dollar Wilwood?

Outlaw525,
Thanks for the post. That is a great real world comparison. I am definitely leaning towards Dr Diff 11.75 stage 2 kit, with stock single piston calipers. Still want to be like the cool kids and have Wilwood calipers, though. He has a kit with Wilwood calipers and the 11.75 rotors. $230 more than the oem. Either way. I'm going with the 11.75 rotors

vektro69 said:

Outlaw525,
Thanks for the post. That is a great real world comparison. I am definitely leaning towards Dr Diff 11.75 stage 2 kit, with stock single piston calipers. Still want to be like the cool kids and have Wilwood calipers, though. He has a kit with Wilwood calipers and the 11.75 rotors. $230 more than the oem. Either way. I'm going with the 11.75 rotors

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He has nice stuff. Having multiple vehicles with braided steel lines, I can say that is bang for the buck one of the best additions to any disc brake system.

vektro69 said:

worth getting a different master than the Dr Diff?

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I think that is the culprit behind years of brake problems I've had.
If I were not going all Wilwood, I certainly would get the Wilwood master cylinder.
Make sure it's compatible, as well as everything else if you mix and match!

Thanks! I do think a better master is worth it, too.

what master are you using or recommend, Outlaw?

Both the '71 & '72 have stock style 1" bore masters. The '68 with the Wilwoods has a late model Mopar aluminum 1 1/8" bore master (80's Dodge pickup) and an aluminum mount adapter. I will be doing this on the '72 manual brake car also.

The '68 and '72 don't have boosters due to large cams and low vacuum. I didn't want to deal with vacuum canisters or pumps, since both cars stop decently now. There is a new 500" engine in process for the '71 and I will be adding a vacuum canister hidden under the battery tray for it.

My 2 cents is wilwood paying you to advertise don't think so. So you can get better braking from stock units and if something goes bad I can go pick it local without having to send it back and have to wonder if it will be ready for the next show. Spend the saved money for more polish for that beautiful car of yours.

Ironbuilt said:

Some people don't like it, but that is one of my favorite colors.

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Same here

One thing to remember about the boutique brake companies, Willwood/Baer etc, is on a weekend when you need parts, where do you find them? Are you broke down somewhere and have to wait for parts to show up? If you keep your own stock of spares in your car you will be ok. If not, then what? This was my reasoning for going with the big Dr Diff setup based off the 03-07 Stang. Readily sourced replacement parts.

Ok. After all the research and advice, I ended up going with the Wilwood plain rotor, 11 inch, 4 piston brakes. Liked th 11.75, and came very close to going that way, but, Wilwood offered no spindle change, and I thought the 11.75 vs 11 wasn't worth the extra effort to change spindles. Plus, probably succumbed to the Wilwood hype for resale.
Price was about the same, slightly more, but, a lot less work. Thanks for all the great help and advice. Forums like this are indispensable for all of us!

You can bling up your stock stuff by having clear[ looks silver] or yellow[ looks gold] zinc plating done. I did that on my 94 Ram 1500. Looked nice through the Boyds wheels. Not very expensive, at least in 2000,

My 66 ran mid 11's @ 120's, we up the grunt a bit, so now runs 10:30's @ 128. Was still stopping with the factory 10.5 " drums on all corners. Third round started getting tuff, Lebanon Valley has a long shut down so always survived, not as much cool down between rounds later in the day. However not fun on the street ( which is where it now lives). Mopar Action did many articles on brake conversions. I did one of their suggestions: Put on A- body front discs. Mine cane off a 74 Dart 4 door ( you need just the spindles and brake stuff for at the wheel) used the 10.75 inch disc. cost for right and left side ( $100). The spindles bolt right to factory 66 B-Body a arms. Did not have power brakes, still do not. got rid of the single bowl master for a double ( again off a A-body) found one with a 15/16's bore. Bought that as a new part NAPA. Smaller the bore the more force it generates with same leg pressure (just basic fluid hyd.) Added a wildwood proportioning valve ( 260-11179). Still have the rear 10" drums. Has that little bit of travel before they apply, that someone here said they liked. I will be adding a 10LB. residual pressure valve this year as I do not (goes in the year brake line to "trap" some pressure so that the movement of the pedal necessary to over come the return springs on the drums is almost gone. Oddly enough stopping at the track (drag) wasn't as bad as the street, had a lot of time to cool between rounds at the track. Not so much on the street - ESPECIALLY IF REBECCA IS BEHIND THE LOUD PEDAL. Used the junk yard calipers as cores for some rebuilt ones from NAPA. 74 Dart parts IN STOCK! The 10.75 inch rotor give ya plenty of round for any 15" wheel. Once it was together only had to reset toe. I have no more then $600 in all parts, even the brake lines included. Stops as hard as you want. Can lock up all wheels, even though this will lengthen actual stopping distance, it is capable. And if ya look underneath it looks FACTORY. It actually is, just not for this car. got a ton of money in the car, as you can see it's a driver that goes to shows. Never wins people HATE the color. But
the kids like it!! It's the only car at shows that they are invited to get in. We tell the little ones that it even has "Monkey Bars" in it. Here is a picture of one of it's many visitors.