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64 rear brake drum removal

fwi

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64 Dodge, 8 3/4 rear end. Right rear locks up, unable to remove both rear drum. have done all the moves, backed off the adjusters, sprayed up inside with WD 40, beat the crap out of the drum all the way around, used a wheel puller, won't budge (yes I have removed the castle nut prior to above procedure). Any suggestions that do not involve buying expensive specialized tools/welders/etc....?
 
I just did "the impossible task" you describe a couple months ago on my original 1964 fury wagon.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news but YOU WILL NEED TO BUY OR BORROW A HEAVY DUTY WHEEL PULLER.

I can confirm that I tried all other methods before just biting the bullet and buying the tool

I got my puller from a pawn shop for 85 bucks but I've seen people asking 100- 200

The cheap wheel pullers they rent at autozone are not heavy duty enough to remove It... you will break the puller

I will post a picture of what you need
 
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This is what you need. When it lets loose it sounds like a gunshot.

otc-7394_w.jpg


You may be able to pick up a used one cheaper from a member here.
Or:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...Hxx8MCdwXY_UNdfy6oG-1EukXnLlH-u4aAjIxEALw_wcB
 
Personally I would opt for one of the more heavy duty pullers instead of the one in the photo above. That is a newer version of the tool I have... and I may be incorrect but I think the original has a larger diameter threaded rod and is just more durable in general
The old blue point and snap on ones are really big tools in person... the threaded rod is about 1 inch thick or more... they are very high quality and make the job easy. You beat on the ends with a hammer until you hear the loud "pop" that is described above and then the hub will come right off.

They may look similar but note the giant mass in the center where the arms attach to body of the tool
Screenshot_20191226-172726_Chrome.jpg
Screenshot_20191226-172749_Chrome.jpg
 
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The old tapered axles work fine and are stong.
The only issue is that they are hard to remove when they have been stuck on for years (in my opinion that is not enough of a reason to change the whole rear end out...)
Once they are removed, smear a little bit of multipelurpose grease on the axles before you torque them back on. That way they should be easier to remove next time you want to overhaul the brakes.
 
Racer double or triple keywayed them running slicks. Good Luck.
 
I did the rears on my 64 Fury, and they had probably never been off. I have one of the old heavy duty pullers. I put it on and tightened it with a wrench VERY tight. Smacked the end of the puller several times, and was able to get a little more turn. Left it overnight, and smacked on the end of the puller several times again the next night. Got more turn with the wrench. Smacked it again, and left. The next night, I smacked it a few times, got some more turn, and smacked it again. Finally got the famously satisfying "pop"! Repeated the other side. Keep in mind, this was a car I was not driving daily, so had plenty of time to play with it....
Oh, and use "Never Seize" when reinstalling the rear hubs.
 
FSM tells you to install the drums on the axles clean and dry. Do not add any grease or lubrication.

They are always hard to remove, 145 ft lbs on the nut and a large contact area on the taper. It’s just the nature of this design. You need a HD puller and they come apart fine.
 
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FSM tells you to install the drums on the axles clean and dry. Do not add any grease or lubrication.
I did it with mine and havent had any problems. It's just a thin film, the way I see it will prevent it from corroding together also might help keep out moisture. I agreed its not a good idea to go against the service manual but this wont hurt anything... the hubs are locked on there and not going anywhere regardless... grease or not.
 
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I did rent one from O'reilly and when I torqued it down I thought it was going to snap. It was obviously not up to the job, so I did not go any further with it.
 
My 67 Jeep Gladiator has the same style axles. A 5/8" hole saw without the drill bit fits snugly over the wheel stud. You can cut through the swedge on each stud. Then the drum will slide off.
Doug
 
64 Dodge, 8 3/4 rear end. Right rear locks up, unable to remove both rear drum. have done all the moves, backed off the adjusters, sprayed up inside with WD 40, beat the crap out of the drum all the way around, used a wheel puller, won't budge (yes I have removed the castle nut prior to above procedure). Any suggestions that do not involve buying expensive specialized tools/welders/etc....?

If you're going to have a car with taypered axels you're going to need a good hub puller in your tool box.

If your right wheel is locking up your left brake is either way out of adjustment, you have a leaking wheel cylinder soaking the shoes and drum or a leaking axel seal doing the same. My bet is a leaking wheel cylinder.

@Evan Frucht the heavy puller that you posted is good if you can find one anymore. When you do find one they are way over priced mainly because of being a collector item. In my opinion they are cumbersome to handle. If the fine threads under the bell get messed up they are pretty much useless. The one I'm useing in my video and what @64BEL posted are just as strong and are easier to use. I've removed many a drum in my days :D
 
If you're going to have a car with taypered axels you're going to need a good hub puller in your tool box.

If your right wheel is locking up your left brake is either way out of adjustment, you have a leaking wheel cylinder soaking the shoes and drum or a leaking axel seal doing the same. My bet is a leaking wheel cylinder.

@Evan Frucht the heavy puller that you posted is good if you can find one anymore. When you do find one they are way over priced mainly because of being a collector item. In my opinion they are cumbersome to handle. If the fine threads under the bell get messed up they are pretty much useless. The one I'm useing in my video and what @64BEL posted are just as strong and are easier to use. I've removed many a drum in my days :D
Good to know. I got lucky and found an old blue point with all the different arms and attachments in the original carrying case for relatively cheap at pawn shop. I never have seen one of the other ones in person but good to know they work just as good. I have only seen and tried to use another style of hub puller that I rented from autozone which was not heavy duty enough.
 
fwi, that tool you bought should do the job for you.Lube the center bolt before using and don't forget to apply some heat to the taper area. Don't get too much, don't make it glow. Hammer with a 2lbs sledge or your biggest hammer to tighten.Then tap the the center of the large bolt. Then tighten again with the hammer. Then tap the center bolt again.Repeat. Like said before when it lets go it will sound like a cannon going off.
What's up with us ? You were just here and I/We didn't even think to look at or get the tool for you to take home with you.I know I'm getting Senile. How about you ? I guess we were B.S.in" and got off the subject.
 
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