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Which type of wheelie bar to use ?

Mike Gaines

Mike Gaines

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My Belvedere has the solid mount bars, NOT the spring loaded bars shown in the other picture below.
I presume the spring loaded bars allow the front end to come up and then kind of gently push the front end back down whereas the bars on my Belvedere actually "stop" the front end from coming up past a certain point.
Which ones are the preferred one for a car like mine ?
It seems like virtually all of the NHRA Super Stock cars have the spring loaded wheelie bars and the PRO MOD cars have the solid bars...
Input please...thanks.

247-2016.jpg 550-40027.jpg 35.jpg
 
Mine were similar to pic on left. I modified mine to be spring loaded. 9.30 short wheelbase car. Best not to hit the bars too hard.
 


Tim has a bunch of info on this. Most of his info is pro mod or top sportsman based though.
 
Mike Gaines said:
Thanks....but....I need the info for cars like mine...not pro mod cars
I am thinking the spring loaded bars would be best for my car...
Click to expand...
I believe he mentions using sprung bars on low power applications.
 
I think the 2000hp cars are using them as a safety device in case of a tuning mistake. I dont believe they ever want to hit them, they are just there to keep the car from flying. If they hit the bars the pass is aborted.
If you want to control a wheelstand, like the superstockers do, then i think you need to use the sprung version, to keep from unloading the tires abruptly and having the car fall back down too fast. I have seen cars with solid bars with all four tires off the ground in a big wheelstand.
My car came with a set of sprung bars. It was a small block car with a lenco that left at seven grand. I put a glide in it and didn't need the bars, it would only yank the front about a foot.
Edit: Mike i think you would be happiest with the sprung bars.
 
Last edited:
33 IMP said:
I think the 2000hp cars are using them as a safety device in case of a tuning mistake. I dont believe they ever want to hit them, they are just there to keep the car from flying. If they hit the bars the pass is aborted.
If you want to control a wheelstand, like the superstockers do, then i think you need to use the sprung version, to keep from unloading the tires abruptly and having the car fall back down too fast. I have seen cars with solid bars with all four tires off the ground in a big wheelstand.
My car came with a set of sprung bars. It was a small block car with a lenco that left at seven grand. I put a glide in it and didn't need the bars, it would only yank the front about a foot.
Edit: Mike i think you would be happiest with the sprung bars.
Click to expand...
That is exactly what I am thinking....thanks for the input
On my first hard pass at my first outing with the car we had the wheels on the bars WAY to close to the track. When I launched the car (at only 2500rpm off the footbrake) it definitely "unloaded" the rear tires and caused the car to "bunny hop" off the line. We raised the bars a couple inches on the next run and it did help but the rear tires still unloaded when the car hit the bars.
I would think when I open the variable restrictors plates wide open (they have been screwed in to allow only 50% air/fuel flow thru the twin Dominators) and then launch the car at 5000rpm off the transbrake that the car is NOT going to like the solid bars.

247-2016.jpg
 
Last edited:
Do you have double adjustable front shocks and travel limiters? Or a programmable ignition? I’m not sure why you’d even need bars on that car.
 
Don't have double adj front shocks, travel limiters or programmable ignition...plus I don't have any more money to spend...lol.
The spring loaded bars are about $250 and I can handle that but that is about all the cash I have left to throw into this heap.
I should be able to sell my Chassis Engineering ChromeMoly Wheelie bars to someone.
 
What kind of numbers is your car running now?
 
Cranky said:
What kind of numbers is your car running now?
Click to expand...
Cranky, haven't really run it full wide open yet. I will be doing that on Feb 22/23 at the upcoming test and tune weekend. I certainly hope for anywhere from 8.90 to 9.20 with low 1.30 to high 1.20 60 foots.
In a "very soft" pass the car went 9.8x@146 with the restrictor plates shut down 50% and leaving at 2500 off the foot brake with only 1.45 60 foots. Tire pressure wasn't set right and wheelie bar height wasn't right.
With the car making 1011HP@7100rpm (at 3000lb car weight) I would think those numbers are doable when I get the launch correct to get the correct 60 foot times.

41.jpg 43.jpg
 
Mine are like the ones pictured. Never had an issue unloading the suspension due to them. Front suspension is set tight, but has 5"-6" of travel.Car moves about 6 feet before the front wheels ever lift. Then carries about 2 ft up for 50-60 ft.
Doug

S27.jpg
 
Keep what you have. They work great.
The spring loaded bars are not forgiving and you need everything right in order for them to work.
Tighten up your front shocks all the way and put those bars you have at 9 inches off the ground.
You will thank me later.
 
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