• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Locktite bolts on flywheel or just ARP lube

I,ve never seen ring gear bolts, sorry I'm drawing a blank... do you mean flex plate that has a ring gear as part of it like a chev or ford?
 
I,ve never seen ring gear bolts, sorry I'm drawing a blank... do you mean flex plate that has a ring gear as part of it like a chev or ford?

I think he means the ring gear as in the ring and pinion.

@4mulas
I use just a small dab of Red lock tight on the flywheel bolts about the last 1/4 of the threads. Or 4/5 threads. ARP lube under the head and down the threads. 4-5 engaged threads of lock tight is plenty.
 
When using ARP bolts it’s a MUST to torque to the ARP specs! DO NOT use the FSM for torque specs an ARP bolts. They make the bolts so use them according to their directions. They are usually tighter than stock bolts.

Don’t put on too much loctite, more is not better. So put it on one surface only.

The loctite works just fine without primer. Clean and dry the bolts and holes first.

View attachment 890881
This is good information. Fasteners that are not a ARP should follow the following in most applications. Always refer to any manufacturer instructions first when available.
A primer should be applied when a plated fastener or Inactive metal is used. The primer has copper ions in it to give an active metal affect. Active metals or unplated fasteners should be clean of oil and debris. I use blue in this application. Blue is serviceable with regular handtools. Red will require 450 degrees F to soften the Loctite for removal.
General rule of thumb thread locking products require two elements the absence of air and an active metal to cure best.
 
Last edited:
Ring and pinion gears.
I locktite the ring gear bolts on differentials.
Since we were talking about drivetrain stuff, I added that application as well.
I,ve never seen ring gear bolts, sorry I'm drawing a blank... do you mean flex plate that has a ring gear as part of it like a chev or ford?
 
ARP (or the ones I use) are not torque to yield as they can only be used once then they must be replaced.
But as other posters have already stated depending on the lubricant used an ARP fastener would use a different torque spec.

FYI....That is EXACTLY what a torque to yield fastener is. Once it has achieved, its specified torque value, the fastener, when removed, must be replaced. I would guess, that some people have reused torque to yield fasteners....without failures..... You pay your money and take your choice..... Just my opinion of course.
BOB RENTON
 
FYI....That is EXACTLY what a torque to yield fastener is. Once it has achieved, its specified torque value, the fastener, when removed, must be replaced. I would guess, that some people have reused torque to yield fasteners....without failures..... You pay your money and take your choice..... Just my opinion of course.
BOB RENTON
Why anyone would re use TTY fasteners is beyond me. Bolts are cheap, engine repair isn’t. And the down time that becomes self induced simply sucks.
 
I will say I have never had crank bolts come loose,,,,,,,but torque converter bolts as they back out start to hit the block making you think it;s a ROD KNOCK!!:lol:
 
Ask a question here you’ll get many different answers. Why not just ask ARP?
They’ll probably just tell me to use their lube or that they are tested using their lube etc.... my main concern was Loctite vs lube.

Thanks for all the replies, I am going to use Loctite red, not very much and without primer, and lube under the head of the bolt.

Thanks for all the replies!
 
So here is my plan. If I get a package of ARP bolts and it comes with ARP Lube...........I use ARP lube and torque to spec. If the ARP bolt package comes with Loctite..........I'm going to use Loctite.
 
I followed the instructions included with the bolts for my 383.
The ARP ultra-torque came with the flywheel bolts.

ARP bolts.
Use the ARP torque specs included with the bolts.

Flywheel - 75 ft/lbs for 7/16-20 bolts, Loctite 242 on threads, ARP ultra-torque under bolt heads.
 
I followed the instructions included with the bolts for my 383.
The ARP ultra-torque came with the flywheel bolts.

ARP bolts.
Use the ARP torque specs included with the bolts.

Flywheel - 75 ft/lbs for 7/16-20 bolts, Loctite 242 on threads, ARP ultra-torque under bolt heads.

You’ve changed my mind, I’ll use blue now (242). When in doubt just read the manufacturer’s recommendation! Lol. Why didn’t I think of that. I often like to plan ahead and was thinking about it before looking at the package and instructions.... the one reason why red is a bit of a turn off is that you need 500 degrees of heat first before removing the bolts.
 
Last edited:
I have an ARP cat-log that's just chock full of tech and science examples plus their awesome products. It's a must have in your shop. My opinion, these old standard shift cars held up great and still are, but, you take a guy that has slicks, gear, big clutch and say 550/650 ft/lbs. that likes to tear *** then you have a problem. They have a great web site also. good luck my fellow 4/5 speed jockeys.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top