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suggestion - B body monthly tech challenge

In my defense, this is the first car I've owned with points, and, I had replaced the points and condenser 2 months prior to the event. Now, I just replace the points and keep a known good condenser with me in case this happens again.
 
Check your ballast resistor to make sure it's the right ohms, otherwise you're going to continue to burn up points and condensors.
Learn how to "read" your points, all burnt, center burnt, pitted, etc. They all mean something.
And make sure your date carries a nail file, trust me on that one.
 
This happened 3 years ago. It was a case of a defective part. I've read on other forums that the quality of condensors isn't what it used to be.
I change the points once a year whether they need it or not.
I have kept the old points. I keep a spare set in the car just in case.
I'll take a look at some of the old ones to see what they look like. I haven't noticed anything outstanding other than wear.
Now, reading spark plugs...that's something I've been working on. I may start a thread about it one of these days.
I'll see if some of the old shop manuals I have contain anything about reading points.
Reading points. Talk about esoteric knowledge.
 
Aeronet, nice one!
Mopar74; thanks for helping so many on this forum, you are right too, a lot of people already do that here.I thought it might be a cool way to collect a database of "known gremlins" when it comes to mopars. But you are all correct, we do a lot of it already.
 
That will happen too, if the nut on the terminal end of the condenser comes loose. Don't ask me how I know.
 
Echlin is in it now. Autozone condenser failed.
Thanks.
 
munger77. I thought of another one. This happened about 2 months ago.
1969 Dodge Coronet. 318 904 8 1/4. Factory stock.
One Saturday morning I went out to start the car and...nothing.
Hints: dome light was nice and bright. Type of ignition is irrelevant.
There is a bonus question if you solve this.
 
Last edited:
Aeronet said:
munger77. I thought of another one. This happened about 2 months ago.
1969 Dodge Coronet. 318 904 8 1/4. Factory stock.
One Saturday morning I went out to start the car and...nothing.
Hints: dome light was nice and bright. Type of ignition is irrelevant.
There is a bonus question if you solve this.
Click to expand...
you left the keys in the house!
 
Yes, moparwacko, you are correct.
Bonus question: can the Neutral Safety Switch be bypassed?
 
Back when I had the torqueflite out and a four speed in place, I bypassed the neutral safety switch by sticking a piece of wire in the plug slots.
 
Here's another one. Happened about four years ago. Same car. 904 TF. I lost 3rd gear. 1st, 2nd, and reverse were fine. It just wouldn't shift into 3rd. There was one cause and one cause only.
Review the Torqueflite sytems to find the answer.
 
Last edited:
Aeronet said:
Here's another one. Happened about four years ago. Same car. 904 TF. I lost 3rd gear. 1st, 2nd, and reverse were fine. It just wouldn't shift into 3rd. There was one cause and one cause only.
Review the Torqueflite sytems to find the answer.
Click to expand...

Had that happen to a 727. It was not the front clutch pack, but a crack in the valve body. Some JB Weld fixed it (I was 200 miles from home at the time.)
 
Interesting. Me, the front clutch pack burned up.
How did the valve body crack?
 
Aeronet said:
Interesting. Me, the front clutch pack burned up.
How did the valve body crack?
Click to expand...
one of the fluid passage walls failed, really more like a small chunk of the aluminum wall broke out.
This was on a fairly fresh rebuild with one of the low buck shift kits installed. Trans would bind up between 1st and 2nd gear at WOT, but sounded cool because it would bark the tires when shifting. This was my '69 Polara 4-door with a stock 318.
 
Was the shift kit one where you drilled down one of the walls? I installed a B&M transpak in a 727 in the '90s and I seem to remember drilling a wall in the valve body.
 
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