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Max Wedge torque converter suggestions

CT1747

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Location
Surry, Maine
I'm currently putting a '63 9-passenger wagon together with a 426 Max Wedge Super Stock version engine with complete crossram intake and all.
Looking for an "off the shelf" style torque converter that anyone would suggest for the car. This is going to a streetable/cruiser setup, not a racer.
Any brands, names, part numbers for converters people may have tried with similar combinations would be much appreciated.
 
You will need to list information about the build. Cam, compression, rear gear, tire diameter, weight of vehicle. 440'
 
You will need to list information about the build. Cam, compression, rear gear, tire diameter, weight of vehicle. 440'
I understand about ordering a camshaft for a specific combination. I was simply looking to see if anyone had any recommendations for similar combinations to mine that they'd already used. Thanks for the response.
 
Knowing what gear is very important. 3.23 vs 4.10 converter will stall a little differently. You dont want it to slip at highway speeds much. Hughes is a brand that has a good reputation for off the shelf. Keep in mind....You get what you pay for in this area. There is a lot of junk out there. A 2500 is a nice street converter. Works good with 3.23 and deeper.
 
A "complete" Max Wedge set-up is NOT going to be a good streetable/cruiser. They were made to race, and will be a handful under normal street/cruising conditions.
 
I'm working on mine now, so I'd be glad to share some info with you. My engine should be fired up in the next month or so, and we will be determining what we'll need after the dyno runs...
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I have a Friend, that did 35 yrs as Chief Engine Bldr, for a Very Well Ranked NASCAR Team. He's retired now, and does some work on the side. We're expecting a Very Stout build, that's streetable, but will melt the tires off, when needed...
 
we had a 3 speed MW back in the day ended up with the "keep off it's aluminum" stickers
are those the high compression pistons?
Hope you got some lighter ones on long rods
and porting the head for the street would be much different according to my porter- lots of oem heads have been ruined by the bigger is better procedure
if you are not spinning it up then more cu in would help use the heads but you're past that
we were limited to stock style valve job- today's would be much better may take new seats- I recommend the premium dura bond ones- used to be made in WA till dura bond bought the CO
post up your head flows down to ..050 b4 consideering a cam for a street build
find some Erson 1.75 rockers (or fill and redrill for ford size adjusters)
that's the way to make an "engine masters" torque curve
I'd hide EFI on it
what fun
and yes what block
cheers
 
FWIW, thousands of very happy street miles. Max wedge set-up with a couple of exceptions: Slightly larger cam, 10.2:1 compression and an MSD distributor. I hear all about how bad max wedge combinations are on the street and have to wonder how many of those posting have ever had any first hand experience with this engine verses regurgitating old myths... Yeah, I know, I added P/D/Bs and P/S so my 5'3", 110 lb. wife can drive it.
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The eng in my 63 may be a bit nastier then your build as I run a solid flat tappet cam that's 264 & 270 @ .050 with .585 & .592 lift and a 110 LSA. I drive it on the street a lot and race it a few times a year. I run a Luppo Dynamic converter thats been in my car about 14 years since June 2006. And I love it as it drives like a normal converter and then works good at the track. Good luck with what ever brand you decide on. Ron


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the story back when I had a max wedge of the teenager who got his parents to get a MW to tow their trailer- evidently worked
then he drove it to high school
 
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