• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

I’ve never been so proud of myself, ha ha

You can’t be scared to **** up in life. You’ll never accomplish **** in life with this frame of mind. I’ve allowed that frame of mind to defeat me in a couple areas in life. We can’t live this way. You have to have confidence. Refuse to not be influenced by negative people, telling you can’t do something or influencing our characters. Most importantly, help people. Not just people that we like. Not just people that sound and look like us and have the same exact beliefs in life. Or come from the same backgrounds. We are all brothers. Be good to one another.
 
Last edited:
pearljam724 said:
You only live once. I never did a complete engine rebuild. That’s the only thing I’ve never accomplished, that I wanted to. I’ve done top end rebuilds, etc. But, nothing involved in removing a crank. I know I can do it. I could never do these things. Because, my whole life I went without a garage. So, I tinkered in the most uncomfortable places.
Hell, with torqueflites. You could track a used one down and rebuild one on your porch or under a car port. Then just swap them out when your done.
Click to expand...
I just never had to need or desire to have a tranny [working or not] lying for no reason taking up space!

pearljam724 said:
You can’t be scared to **** up in life. You’ll never accomplish **** in life with this frame of mind. I’ve allowed that frame of mind to defeat me in a couple areas in life. We can’t live this way. You have to have confidence. Refuse to not be influenced by negative people, telling you can’t do something or influencing our characters. Most importantly, help people. Not just people that we like. Not just people that sound and look like us and have the same exact beliefs in life. Or come from the same backgrounds. We are all brothers. Be good to one another.
Click to expand...
I don't think I ever said anything to the contrary, those are good words to live by! To bad others are so naïve.​
 
69a100 said:
I just never had to need or desire to have a tranny [working or not] lying for no reason taking up space!


I don't think I ever said anything to the contrary, those are good words to live by! To bad others are so naïve.​
Click to expand...
Those things weren’t directed toward you. Just generally speaking. I mentioned a garage in building a motor. I also mentioned these transmissions don’t necessarily need removed. They can be fixed without a garage, without a lift, without removing them. That’s why I went that direction in that reply. It’s all a carry over to explain how simple it is. We give ourselves excuses why we can’t do it. Because we never did, because we don’t have this or that. We don’t feel like removing one. I know, I’m guilty of it myself. If you have tranny issues at any given time. You can fix it yourself. If you’ve ever rebuilt and tuned a carburetor. You’re on a transmission ‘s repair or rebuild level. But, without ever having done it ourselves. We think it’s a complex piece of equipment. It’s the exact opposite. The average person has never rebuilt a transmission. The average person has been intimidated by old school mechanics for a long time. Making us think, “ Oh, a tranny is complex and he has the right equipment “ Better take it to a professional and give him $1200. It’s not the case, if you’re willing. In fact, there’s not much a person can screw up.
 
Last edited:
If my car was a daily driver to work. No way, pass it on to someone else. Most of our cars are stored in a safe place and don’t move for weeks or months at a time. I decided it would be stupid to give it to someone else under those circumstances. You can stretch it out, an hour or 2 at a time. Until it’s done. I’m going to do the same with my engine in a year or 2. Even though it runs great now. I want to bump the compression a tad. I know I can do that myself too, when the time comes. Having never rebuilt a complete engine either. I have way too much damn money in this car to give a lot more to anyone else. Plus, I enjoy learning and pampering the car myself. No one is gonna love it like me, ha ha
 
Damn it. I can rebuild a transmission. But, I can’t seal an exhaust leak. Had to drop exhaust at manifold collector on passenger side for tranny crossmember removal. Tightened the 2 collector bolts twice and the two connections keep going cock eyed from another. Leaving a gap. I tried putting a camera in there to see if it was ok. I tried tightening each side a little at a time. I thought I had it the 2nd time. But, it’s still going on crooked and leaking. Any tips on this ? Other than taking the complete exhaust side off in pieces, lol !
 
It sounds like the exhaust got tweaked when you pulled it down to get it out of the way. You might not be able to push in to the original shape cause it will hit the manifold before you can apply enough pressure to go back to the original position. Maybe put a wood block between the exhaust pipe and the body back by the trans crossmember and see if you can push it back into it's original shape. The manifold flange bolts aren't really meant to force it back in place....just keep it together once it gets there. It should fit nicely wo forcing it. Could maybe pull on it with some pressure w a ratchet strap till it fits in place and the exhaust flange aligns up. Just some thoughts...you will get it. :steering:
 
Curiousyellow71 said:
It sounds like the exhaust got tweaked when you pulled it down to get it out of the way. You might not be able to push in to the original shape cause it will hit the manifold before you can apply enough pressure to go back to the original position. Maybe put a wood block between the exhaust pipe and the body back by the trans crossmember and see if you can push it back into it's original shape. The manifold flange bolts aren't really meant to force it back in place....just keep it together once it gets there. It should fit nicely wo forcing it. Could maybe pull on it with some pressure w a ratchet strap till it fits in place and the exhaust flange aligns up. Just some thoughts...you will get it. :steering:
Click to expand...
Yeah that’s the problem. I can feel the space between the flange with my finger to determine if the gap is closing up. But, once I start tightening. It moves and I can no longer see or feel it. The exhaust isn’t tweeked, I just can’t get it to couple together without it going cock eyed.
 
The flanges typically will fit into place wo much if any pressure. If your having to force it together with the flange by the bolts something is causing it to do that....its sound like something is pulling on it. It's own weight or its twisted just enough to cause you grief.. The idea of being tweaked is not that a Pipe is bent but maybe the pipe slipped in one of the connections back farther. Sometimes when you turn a pipe in a pipe it tightens itself up more locking it... and wont go back to the right position until you loosen the clamp. Of course if everything is welded up or a crossover is welded in...there can be pressure until it gets in its final position, hard to really say what's going on, but I am sure you will conquer it.
 
Curiousyellow71 said:
The flanges typically will fit into place wo much if any pressure. If your having to force it together with the flange by the bolts something is causing it to do that....its sound like something is pulling on it. It's own weight or its twisted just enough to cause you grief.. The idea of being tweaked is not that a Pipe is bent but maybe the pipe slipped in one of the connections back farther. Sometimes when you turn a pipe in a pipe it tightens itself up more locking it... and wont go back to the right position until you loosen the clamp. Of course if everything is welded up or a crossover is welded in...there can be pressure until it gets in its final position, hard to really say what's going on, but I am sure you will conquer it.
Click to expand...
You’re exactly right. I messed with it this evening. I’ve come to the conclusion that the remainder of exhaust is going to have to come off. The weight and it being attached back by the tank is just not allowing me to win. If I attach manifold end first. It should be easier to close it up. I have front end of car on ramps. I can reach up in there, while it’s running and feel the leak. I can do the same thing tomorrow. But, take the weight and rear anchor off and close the leak up first before reattaching everything. My luck, it will move fighting it back together, lol ! It’s gonna be a pain in the *** getting the pipes out of the muffler, from under car. Because you cant pull entire exhaust out. Due to goofy bend that goes above rear axle.
 
pearljam724 said:
You’re exactly right. I messed with it this evening. I’ve come to the conclusion that the remainder of exhaust is going to have to come off. The weight and it being attached back by the tank is just not allowing me to win. If I attach manifold end first. It should be easier to close it up. I have front end of car on ramps. I can reach up in there, while it’s running and feel the leak. I can do the same thing tomorrow. But, take the weight and rear anchor off and close the leak up first before reattaching everything. My luck, it will move fighting it back together, lol ! It’s gonna be a pain in the *** getting the pipes out of the muffler, from under car. Because you cant pull entire exhaust out. Due to goofy bend that goes above rear axle.
Click to expand...
Maybe try to take a clamp off in the back and work it back and forth til its loose but is still connected. I would think that would take some pressure off and you wont have to deal w reinstalling anything.
 
Curiousyellow71 said:
Maybe try to take a clamp off in the back and work it back and forth til its loose but is still connected. I would think that would take some pressure off and you wont have to deal w reinstalling anything.
Click to expand...
Yeah, good suggestion. I thought of that too. I tried tightening it and loosening it barely enough to move it around. I tried boards keeping it in place. I tried prying it toward the direction it leaks and retightening. It still leaked. It’s gonna be a pain regardless. It’s all one section, from the collector to the muffler. Roughly 8ft long. If that run was shorter. It might be easier. I’m going to try your suggestion and just take the rear hanger off and letting it rest on a jack stand and see what that does. But, I have a feeling. It’s going to move at the collector once I attach it at the rear again.
 
Can I ask what you used for a "solvent" cleaner? I'm rebuilding my 904 as well. I was gonna use some brake cleaner (non chlorinated) and it seems to leave a film?
 
Have only rebuilt one 727 and only because the case cracked when trying to unscrew the dang neutral safety/reverse light switch to replace it. It was in good shape to begin with but since never having to go into one, I had a friend come over and hold my hand since he had done bunches of them where where he worked. That was in the late 70's lol Ever since, I'm real edgy about doing that again!
 
Rusty 72 said:
Can I ask what you used for a "solvent" cleaner? I'm rebuilding my 904 as well. I was gonna use some brake cleaner (non chlorinated) and it seems to leave a film?
Click to expand...
Brake cleaner on valve body internals. I hit it with compressed air afterwards. Left to dry for 24 hours and sure it’s bone dry. Using a Q-tip cleaning swab works very well for the valve body channels. Be sure to hit it again with compressed air and look it over well. Otherwise, cotton can be left behind. The most important thing to do is an air check on the actuators. You don’t want to forget this, before reinstalling the valvebody. Because aluminum doesn’t like fasteners torqued one too many times. You can ruin a case this way. That’s why I added a pan with a drain and studs that loctite into the case. Using nuts, rather than oem bolts. You can drop the pan frequently as you like. Plus, if you forget to do an air check, prior to valve body reinstall. You take a risk chewing up the new selector shaft seal you installed. Take your time, try not to over look what needs done in concession. Use petroleum jelly on all seals and metal surfaces that make contact reinstalling. Important to replace band pin o- ring. Last thing you want is to button it up and it leaks from that pin because you didn’t replace it. It’s a good idea to very lightly sand the valve body with a sanding block. Where it mates with the sealing plate. Lightly polish the plate also. Don’t get carried away. You’re just cleaning and making metal surfaces smooth by very lightly polishing.
 
Last edited:
Cranky said:
Have only rebuilt one 727 and only because the case cracked when trying to unscrew the dang neutral safety/reverse light switch to replace it. It was in good shape to begin with but since never having to go into one, I had a friend come over and hold my hand since he had done bunches of them where where he worked. That was in the late 70's lol Ever since, I'm real edgy about doing that again!
Click to expand...
Manuals mention using a socket, rather than a box wrench for neutral switch. I think using separate studs and nuts for the pan bolts is critical. Not only for regular maintenance. It also allows you to adjust the line pressures many times, if need be. Change filter, etc. Without risking the case threads. Because they were removed one too many times. A cork gasket will always weep due to the case threads being worn a little. Studs and nuts eliminate this , allowing regular maintenance. Without any problems. It’s extremely nice to have a pan with a drain also. Saves a lot of time and prevents a huge mess. Running down your arms, all over the damn place, etc. Lol !
 
Last edited:
The 727, 904s are great transmission to learn on. My Dad helped me rebuild my first 727 when I was 16 and that was my first shift kit. I've always been pretty fearless thinking I could fix anthing... Lol. Had a few that didn't go well and had to pull out of the car numerous times. Didn't have the internet or a forum...and SOMETIMES we had a manual. It's been a while since I've completely overhauled a 727...but this afternoon 4 of us are pulling the 727 out of our charger for a convertor upgrade, and my 07 dodge pickup I lost 4 of the 6 gears...so I will be experiencing the atf dripping down my arms 2. Not one of my favorite things. Amazed that the pan gasket is the same between my 07 2500 diesel 68rfe and our 727 in our charger.
Been researching the 68rfe...getting that fixed:praying:
 
Ive done it!

This morning

thumbnail_20200111_093528.jpg


Jeff
 
I’ve now put around 500 miles on the rebuild and it’s working flawlessly. Huge difference in car performance the kickdown working properly, creates. Burning a lot of gas though. Can’t get away from hammering down, too often. Upmost joy, seeing it work. Like a little kid, lo !
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

LemonWedge
727 no reverse…. ?
Replies
18
Views
1K
LemonWedge
LemonWedge
moparedtn
So I find myself alone at Christmas...
2 3 4
Replies
72
Views
3K
haywire 440
haywire 440
chargermike
Been a while. Back with a 66 charger.
2
Replies
30
Views
1K
chargermike
chargermike
fmahannah
Not so good vibrations...
Replies
6
Views
1K
1STMP
1STMP
HawkRod
Bad fuel messed up valves?
Replies
15
Views
936
HawkRod
HawkRod
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top