• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Looks like a good piece of the puzzle..Searching for traction MT ET BIAS

HEMI-ITIS said:
Are your springs tucked in yet??
Click to expand...
Nope. Stock everything except for the 5" offset Year One aluminum Rallye wheels, 9" x 17" that make 315/35/17s fit like Plymouth should have sold them as standard equipment!
I am going to tub or mini tub when I get the RMS StreetLynx or Gerst triangulated rear suspension system installed, and have my trunk pan attended to.
I am going to see if I can get a wheel manufacturer to widen a pair of those beautiful Year One aluminum Rallye wheels like I have now, to fit some stupid wide FATTIES on...
I LOVE that look, and as much as I need better traction now, when I get my stroker motor, I will really need some grip!
 
Your tires are large enough to hook at the track! You just want the fattie look and I fully understand and belong to that club!!!
 
Baby got BACK!
These are the pix I really wanted to post.
DAMN that looks AWESOME on a B-Body!
Screenshot_2015-12-22-12-42-11.png
Screenshot_2014-09-14-13-48-40.png
Screenshot_2014-09-14-13-52-10.png

:bananadance::carrot::fool::bananaweed::lowdown:BIG FATTIES! :bananadance:
 
biomedtechguy said:
Thanks a lot! It would be nice to have one tire for street and track duty...certainly less expensive.
That 345/40 is suggesting a 1" wider wheel than the 315, and I'm already "cheating" with my 9" wide wheel when Toyo recommends a 10.5" min. No sidewall pucker to speak of, but the 345 minimum recommended wheel is a 11.5"
:eek:
I am ultimately responsible for making the call, but what do you think? Try the 345 and see how it looks on the wheel?
BEFORE I BUY ANYTHING else, I am going to try the line lock that I already have and see if that helps traction improve enough for my 60 ft times to improve.
I am also going to install a hydraulic clutch bearing and the Clutchtamer or Hitmaster that reduces the impact of releasing the clutch. That may resolve the problem along with the heat imparted once I can lock my front brakes for a better burnout.
Click to expand...

I currently have the HitMaster setup on my car. It basically converts a standard hydraulically actuated clutch into a 2 stage system- initially the clutch hits on the softer 1st stage for the launch, then when the transition timer times out the 2nd stage of full clutch clamp pressure comes in to lock the clutch up. Setup is very straight forward and easy to understand, and you can change the intensity of the 1st stage hit by rotating a simple knob.

A few weeks ago I was experimenting with a 10.4" Ram dual friction organic/metallic disc, combined with a Ram 2800lb diaphragm PP. Normally a dual friction disc combined with a 2800lb pressure plate would be a super aggressive setup, but this one has it's hit softened by the HitMaster. The car has a 2.78 1st gear, 3.73 rear gear, and 28" M/T 275 radials @ 28psi. The transition timer for the clutch was set to 1.0sec. I fired the car up, drove a few miles from the shop to warm the oil up a bit, then stopped to make a hit. Dead cold 275 radials on a random stretch of chip sealed county road, zero rubber down with no burnout at all. The 4500 clutch dump produced a dead hook launch with a peak of 0.98 G's @ 1.02sec. When the 2nd stage of the clutch kicked in at 1.0sec, it knocked the tires loose and as a result the accel G's dropped to .72.

I later did basically the same routine, except this time I bumped the transition timer setting up to 1.5sec. This time a 4900 clutch dump produced another dead hook launch with a higher 1.22 G peak @ 1.8sec in, well after the clutch's transition point. That simple addition of 0.5 sec to the transition timer setting improved peak accel by .24G's, also got the car to 50mph about .625sec quicker. No other changes between those two hits, just that .5sec addition to the clutch transition timer setting.

Dead hooked radials from a 4900rpm clutch drop on a random chip sealed county road with zero surface prep and no burnout at all. The dual friction disc doesn't complain at all about the 1.5sec slip time that it takes to bring it all together on the zero prep surface.

Grant
 
biomedtechguy said:
18 lbs on the track is a common recommendation from people who post about these particular tires. 30 lbs driving to and from the track.

That is an option, but I know for a fact that the 5" backspaced 9"wide Year One aluminum Rallye wheels center a 10.5" wide tire perfectly in my rear quarter wheelwells.
Click to expand...
People have been running 10.5x29.5 on these cars forever. They will fit on the correct off set wheel. It's more tire than you will ever need.
Doug
 
weedburner said:
I currently have the HitMaster setup on my car. It basically converts a standard hydraulically actuated clutch into a 2 stage system- initially the clutch hits on the softer 1st stage for the launch, then when the transition timer times out the 2nd stage of full clutch clamp pressure comes in to lock the clutch up. Setup is very straight forward and easy to understand, and you can change the intensity of the 1st stage hit by rotating a simple knob.

A few weeks ago I was experimenting with a 10.4" Ram dual friction organic/metallic disc, combined with a Ram 2800lb diaphragm PP. Normally a dual friction disc combined with a 2800lb pressure plate would be a super aggressive setup, but this one has it's hit softened by the HitMaster. The car has a 2.78 1st gear, 3.73 rear gear, and 28" M/T 275 radials @ 28psi. The transition timer for the clutch was set to 1.0sec. I fired the car up, drove a few miles from the shop to warm the oil up a bit, then stopped to make a hit. Dead cold 275 radials on a random stretch of chip sealed county road, zero rubber down with no burnout at all. The 4500 clutch dump produced a dead hook launch with a peak of 0.98 G's @ 1.02sec. When the 2nd stage of the clutch kicked in at 1.0sec, it knocked the tires loose and as a result the accel G's dropped to .72.

I later did basically the same routine, except this time I bumped the transition timer setting up to 1.5sec. This time a 4900 clutch dump produced another dead hook launch with a higher 1.22 G peak @ 1.8sec in, well after the clutch's transition point. That simple addition of 0.5 sec to the transition timer setting improved peak accel by .24G's, also got the car to 50mph about .625sec quicker. No other changes between those two hits, just that .5sec addition to the clutch transition timer setting.

Dead hooked radials from a 4900rpm clutch drop on a random chip sealed county road with zero surface prep and no burnout at all. The dual friction disc doesn't complain at all about the 1.5sec slip time that it takes to bring it all together on the zero prep surface.

Grant
Click to expand...
THAT IS EXACTLY WHAT I WANTED TO HEAR!
:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::bananadance::bananadance::bananadance::bananadance:
:thankyou::thankyou::thankyou::thankyou::thankyou::thankyou::thankyou:
dvw said:
People have been running 10.5x29.5 on these cars forever. They will fit on the correct off set wheel. It's more tire than you will ever need.
Doug
Click to expand...
Thanks Doug!!
 
I run the MT ET Bias on my heap.
With the stick, I used to blow radials off.
These hook up really well after a burnout.
I put a set on steelies for the track, 26" tall, I have 28s mounted on mags, but run all over the street on the ETs.
I run 13 psi at the track, 30 on the street.
Don't know I'd want to run em in the rain though.
I read about your snubber destruction, your U joint was probably ready to break at that angle. Did you ever address that? These things hook good, going to bring out your next weakest link.
 
65Fury440 said:
I read about your snubber destruction, your U joint was probably ready to break at that angle. Did you ever address that? These things hook good, going to bring out your next weakest link.
Click to expand...
Thank you 65Fury440! Thank you very much for reading and recalling that part of my plight.
I have not done anything about that, but I decided over a year ago that, for me, the cost of a RMS StreetLynx or Gerst triangulated rear suspension is only about 1/3rd more than a full boat CalTracks, and I am going with the triangulated 4 link setup. I went from "wanting" a better front suspension system with some "need" (no one, all skilled front in mechanics, has ever had enough "adjustments" available with the cam style UCAs, and the QA1 system was on sale, so I bought the ENTIRE system w/K member, except for a better UCA brand.
I am going to have that installed along with the Wilwood 4 wheel disc brake system, another need to, and a once only pricing opportunity.
So the rear suspension is next, after all of that.
 
biomedtechguy said:
Thank you 65Fury440! Thank you very much for reading and recalling that part of my plight.
I have not done anything about that, but I decided over a year ago that, for me, the cost of a RMS StreetLynx or Gerst triangulated rear suspension is only about 1/3rd more than a full boat CalTracks, and I am going with the triangulated 4 link setup. I went from "wanting" a better front suspension system with some "need" (no one, all skilled front in mechanics, has ever had enough "adjustments" available with the cam style UCAs, and the QA1 system was on sale, so I bought the ENTIRE system w/K member, except for a better UCA brand.
I am going to have that installed along with the Wilwood 4 wheel disc brake system, another need to, and a once only pricing opportunity.
So the rear suspension is next, after all of that.
Click to expand...
Well, I've been entering some search terms and came across this thread I started. There was another thread about rear suspension, and I was thinking about the triangulated 4 link or a "real" parallel 4 link, and through the multiple pages course of the thread I decided to go with Calvert split mono leaf springs, sliders, and the Assassin brand traction bars. I'm going with Viking double adjustable shocks on the rear, because although 9 way single adjustable shocks are the common ones used, I already have Viking double adjustable shocks on the front, so why not.
 
I mounted up my Assassins last week, nice units.Took the car out for a ride, still shock limited in that the shock won't hold the tires down. Launches straight though.
ViKings should be here today or Monday.
Will report back results.
 
Be sure the shocks are NOT going to their full limit in extension or compression!!!!
 
Last edited:
HEMI-ITIS said:
Be sure the shocks are NOT going to their full limit in extension or compression!!!!
Click to expand...

Great point.
My front shocks are 13.5 extended, ended up using the application for a Ford Ranger.

On the rear, ended up with standard model with extensions.
#SeaBodyProblems
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

C
  • Locked
FOR SALE 1969 Charger Restomod Project - Viper twin turbo
Replies
11
Views
7K
Cop Magnet
C
moes
COOL ARTICLE ABOUT A ONE OWNER 1970 SUPER BEE
Replies
6
Views
3K
wagonman
wagonman
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top