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Correct installation of green axle bearings.

chargervert

chargervert

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I am doing a rear disc brake conversion on my 70 Charger. I bought the Right Stuff rear disc brake kit. I also ordered the green bearings to replace the factory tapered roller bearings . I noticed that the green bearings come with a spacer,and I am assuming that the spacer goes on the axle first, then the retaining plate,then the bearing with the snap ring towards the hub of the axle. Am I assuming correctly? I am going to take the axles to have the green bearings pressed on,and I want to install them correctly the first time! The axle is a Dana 60. Thanks Pete,
 
chargervert said:
I am doing a rear disc brake conversion on my 70 Charger. I bought the Right Stuff rear disc brake kit. I also ordered the green bearings to replace the factory tapered roller bearings . I noticed that the green bearings come with a spacer,and I am assuming that the spacer goes on the axle first, then the retaining plate,then the bearing with the snap ring towards the hub of the axle. Am I assuming correctly? I am going to take the axles to have the green bearings pressed on,and I want to install them correctly the first time! The axle is a Dana 60. Thanks Pete,
Click to expand...

From Dr. Diff sight.
Pair MO-400 snap ring style Mopar "Green" wheel bearing kit includes

  • 2 non-adjustable sealed bearings
  • 2 retainers
  • 2 gaskets
  • 2 lock rings
Fits 8 3/4" and Mopar Dana 60 passenger car rearends. Get $5 off if you also purchase a housing gasket/seal kit.

Other than the lip seal, the bearings do not need to be greased.

The bearings simply press on. The sequence of parts is the same as the original wheel bearings.

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS:

  1. Remove old bearings
  2. Drop the 5 hole retaining plate over the axle shaft
  3. Grease the seal on the new bearings
  4. Press the bearing tight against the axle flange with the seal facing the axle flange.
  5. Press the lock-ring tight against the bearing.
Note: Install the gray foam gasket between the brake backing plate and 5 hole retaining plate.
 
chargervert said:
I am doing a rear disc brake conversion on my 70 Charger. I bought the Right Stuff rear disc brake kit. I also ordered the green bearings to replace the factory tapered roller bearings . I noticed that the green bearings come with a spacer,and I am assuming that the spacer goes on the axle first, then the retaining plate,then the bearing with the snap ring towards the hub of the axle. Am I assuming correctly? I am going to take the axles to have the green bearings pressed on,and I want to install them correctly the first time! The axle is a Dana 60. Thanks Pete,
Click to expand...

IMO....
The best thing to do with the Green hearings is to return them to the place of purchase and secure a set of the origional Timken Tapered axle bearings with adjusters. There have been many discussions, pros and cons about the differences between methodology, types, and personal information and preferences. Many people feel the Green hearings are superior (usually based on the "my buddy said" rule or the next door neighnor's brother-in-law's cousin's sister's best friend's uncle), just as many people believe the Timken Tapered axle bearings with adjusters are superior. IF a single row ball bearing design is best, WHY did Mopar select the Timken Tapered axle bearings with adjusters design?? If you used Dr. Diff, I'm sure he'll exchange them for his tapered roller bearings and necessary hardware package. Just my opinion of course. BTW... I use Timken Tapered bearings on both the front wheel spindles, inner snd outer bearings AND the Timken rear axle bearings with adjusters.
BOB RENTON
 
Does anyone else remember how bad the axle and carrier bearings in the 8 3/4 were in the late 60's?

My Dad was the rear end specialist at Wilkerson Chrysler Plymouth in Tulsa. He was constantly replacing them. To determine which bearings were bad, his road test was to run the car up to the speed that you could hear the noise and gently swerve the car side to side. If the noise would change as you loaded side to side, left to right, it was the axle bearings. If the noise did not change, it was carrier bearings.

He always replaced both sides, and made a pretty good living doing only bearings and rebuilds.

Rick Crow
 
If you do use the green bearings, I believe they have o-ring seals. Don't forget to remove the seals from the axle housing or they will not fit.

Rick
 
You can leave the inner seals in the axle housing, not necessary, but if you leave them in, it’ll help keep the diff fluid inside.
 
RJRENTON said:
The best thing to do with the Green hearings is to return them to the place of purchase and secure a set of the origional Timken Tapered axle bearings with adjusters.
Click to expand...

Bob, he's doing a rear disk brake conversion. You have to use the Green bearing.

The Green bearing got a bad rap years ago when a bad batch was on the market. That's been corrected and there hasn't been any complaints since. All of the new cars are useing sealed roller bearings and they are even on front wheel drive cars. Imagine all of the pressure they go through on the turning wheels and the weight of a engine and trans sitting on them.

JMO
 
Watch for the clip groove and o-ring groove...

20200112_223000.jpg
 
Perfect pic of how they are assembled.
 
My friends have run green bearings on a road courses,oval tracks,and have gone 208 MPH running land speed racing with no failures,so I am confidant they would be fine for street use.
 
On every Mopar forum when this subject comes up there is always someone who takes the position the the green bearings are bad. On one of them, Cass (Dr Diff) got on and wrote a very well thought out explanation of the issue. As a part of that, he stated that while tapered bears are "technically" stronger in the grander scheme of things, as it relates to vehicles the roller bearings are as strong and work just as well as the tapered. He went on to list a variety of vehicles that use roller/ball bearings (such as the Ford 9") successfully. He also stated exactly what was stated here, that a bad batch of green bearings gave them a bad rep. I have had green bearings in my 70 Challenger for over 15 years without issues.
 
I don't remember now exactly what it was , but a few years ago there was a change in the Dr. Diff. kit. and it was suggested to get that improved version. Anyone know what that was, so we don't get some older versions ?........MO..........
 
Cornpatch MO said:
I don't remember now exactly what it was , but a few years ago there was a change in the Dr. Diff. kit. and it was suggested to get that improved version. Anyone know what that was, so we don't get some older versions ?........MO..........
Click to expand...

The photo above is the improved design with the snap ring and bearing retainer plate. The original design had the retainer plate as part of the bearing, so it was prone to cracking.
The disk brake kit wants you to use the green bearings so the axle ends are a known distance from the flange that the brake bracket attaches to.
One issue that happens with the green bearings is the axles will contact the thrust block in the center diff. Either remove the thrust block or grind a small amount off the axle shaft so the axles can be installed all the way. Otherwise the axle bearings could be side-loaded and they will wear out quickly.

Some of the brake kits like Willwood, you don't even use the retainer plate because the caliper bracket acts as the retainer plate.
 
khryslerkid said:
Bob, he's doing a rear disk brake conversion. You have to use the Green bearing.

The Green bearing got a bad rap years ago when a bad batch was on the market. That's been corrected and there hasn't been any complaints since. All of the new cars are useing sealed roller bearings and they are even on front wheel drive cars. Imagine all of the pressure they go through on the turning wheels and the weight of a engine and trans sitting on them.

JMO
Click to expand...
Out of curiosity, as to the first part, WHY is the change to a single row ball bearing (aka Green Bearing) required? Is there no space to accommodate the bearing end play adjustmet hardware?
I think the new vehicles are using a duplex angular contact bearing or perhaps spherical roller bearing arrangement or a similar type. The bearings mentioned as "sealed roller bearings" are totally different than the sealed ball bearings (Green style) or tapered roller bearings. I'm sure many engineering hours and testing were spent devloping what is presently in use.
Before even considering the Green Bearing application, I would want to know the specific type of bearing and its full radial and axial load capabilities at rotating RPM and its L-10 forcasted life. For my application, I'll stick with what Mopar designed and installed. Just my opinion of course.
BOB RENTON
 
A lot of disc brake kits will work with tapered bearings, including Dr diff's kits. You just need to keep the end play to a minimum.
 
All new sealed hub bears I have dealt with have been roller. The reason for ball type bearing to be drop was due to wear in shipment. The rocking of rail cars would wear the balls and race out. Had nothing to do with the life of the bearing once delivered.
 
70chall440 said:
On every Mopar forum when this subject comes up there is always someone who takes the position the the green bearings are bad. On one of them, Cass (Dr Diff) got on and wrote a very well thought out explanation of the issue. As a part of that, he stated that while tapered bears are "technically" stronger in the grander scheme of things, as it relates to vehicles the roller bearings are as strong and work just as well as the tapered.
Click to expand...

Cass is also the guy who has stated on many occasions that he got tired of answering phone questions on how to adjust the factory axle play. Greens need no adjustment.
 
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