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Cams wiped need advice

Well if it won’t budge there’s your answer. Now do you tear down or roll the dice?
 
If you dont have time to do it right the first time. You'll always have time to do it over. It doesnt cost anything except a gasket set to disassemble completely. Even with metal in the skirts you may be able to pic the pieces out. Time consuming. Or there is no damage. Or the pistons are junk. Oil pump has had unfiltered grit go thru it. Needs to be checked. I've fixed more than a few that wiped cans with no more than cam, lifters.bearings, oil pump and gaskets. The real issue is to make sure everything is correct this time. Lifters rotate, springs are correct, valve train doesnt crash or bind. Above all proper break in procedure and oil. Neither the lifter or cam bearings caused this failure.
Doug
 
So far I have the pan off and have inspected the cylinder walls. Minor scoring in the #7 and #8 cylinders. All the others are clean. Removed the oil pump and disassembled it, seems like it took the majority of the damage. Major scoring in the oil pump cylinder and race. Ill get the heads off this week and pop those 2 pistons out to see if they are damaged.

On another note I see that the rods were all marked with a punch indicating what cylinder they should be and which caps match to each rod. Is there any concern that when they installed them they did not put the rods in the same order? #3 is in #5 hole #4 6 and 8 are all in the wrong hole. As long as the cap and rod #,s match is there any concern with them not being in the correct hole?
 
A little strange they went to the trouble of marking them and then mixed them up.
However there should be no reason they cannot go in any cylinder.
If they check out and are orientated correctly I probably would put them back where you take them from.
Check the rings on those scored cylinders they will be damaged for sure but it may be hard to see with the naked eye.
 
So at this point I know the heads (eddy's)are going to have to come off so I already planned to have them blown apart and then I will do a mild bench polish on them and have everything checked and clearanced. As I was disassembling the motor I ran across a couple of items that had me questioning the bonifides of the engine builder. Intake bolts were barely finger tight, water pump impeller was completely rusted off and some other minor torque issues here and there. Knowing that Eddy heads tend to come out of the box with issues its worth the cost to have them gone over prior to reassembly.
Yikes! Time to go through it and verify. With a rusty water pump, check for scale throughout the water passages and suspect freeze plugs which rust from the inside out.
 
lots of good tips
remember the core plugs in the back of the block
where the rods go should not matter unless they have oil squirters which should point the right direction

and if there are R and left pistons with valve notches they have to go in a correct hole
 
So far I have the pan off and have inspected the cylinder walls. Minor scoring in the #7 and #8 cylinders. All the others are clean. Removed the oil pump and disassembled it, seems like it took the majority of the damage. Major scoring in the oil pump cylinder and race. Ill get the heads off this week and pop those 2 pistons out to see if they are damaged.

On another note I see that the rods were all marked with a punch indicating what cylinder they should be and which caps match to each rod. Is there any concern that when they installed them they did not put the rods in the same order? #3 is in #5 hole #4 6 and 8 are all in the wrong hole. As long as the cap and rod #,s match is there any concern with them not being in the correct hole?
When my rods came back from resizing, they were not all the same length.
When my block came back from decking and line-honing, the crank was no longer in the factory location, and the decks were no longer perfect to the crank.
So then, the pistons popped up in a large variation of deck heights. To solve that the rods were juggled around to make the best of it. This of course put all the factory numbers out of whack. Not a big deal.
Just put them back in the same holes you found them,and in the correct orientation, as to the squirter holes and yur golden,hopefully Also the eyebrows have to be correctly oriented and synchronized if they are big and little pockets.

As for that trans, Passon Performance makes a nice lightweight aluminum box that took my trans down to 85 pounds. Now I can toss it in there pretty easy, and oh, waitaminit; the last time I did that, was in about 2008, so I was only 55 then,lol. OOps. Bur believe it or not, I'm strongrer today than I was back then.
Anyway, I agree about using the line up pins, but I use shorter ones and on the bottom, cuz they are easier to take out, and I'm more comfortable with hanging the box off the upper bolts.
If you have or rent an engine-tilter, I would just leave the trans installed, and take it all up thru the top. This works best with an extra set of eyes and muscles. Not the wife tho, cuz if something happens, you gotta be real careful what you do or say.
 
Update: Pulled and inspected pistons and all the pistons and bores are good and clean. Looks like most the damage was confined to the oil pump. Now for the reason behind the cam wipe. I noticed as I was pulling the old springs off of the driver side head that the spring associated with the lifter that was cannoed would not compress. I inspected the valve and its not bent so curious reason it would not compress. Ended up getting it to pop lose with c-clamp offset to the side of the retainer. Once I got the spring off I can easily insert the valve in the guide so its not a guide issue. could the valve lock fusing to the retainer cause extra pressure on the valve and in turn not allow the lifter to actuate properly in turn chewing up the cam and lifter?
 
Check spring free length maybe to high also did you notice spring coils touching installed?
 
Check spring free length maybe to high also did you notice spring coils touching installed?

No coil touching that I could see. Dual springs though so its possible the inner was interfering somehow.
 
I’ve never seen a lifter worn quite like that before.

What seems particularly odd is that the cam wore a groove in the bottom of the lifter...... right off the edge on one side, but the other side the wear pattern is well clear of the edge.

I would be carefully checking out what was going on there when I stuck a new cam in it.

E289AC5F-623A-4B5A-8502-4E94FF2363EE.png
 
It looks like that lifter has zero rotation. I agree 100% with PRHEADS find out what has happened or risk the same failure.
 
I got my new springs, locks, and retainers in today and mocked one up on the head to check fitment. I noticed that the old valve locks fit the old and new retainers badly. They form almost an oval hole over the valve stem whereas the new ones fit perfectly. I think this is what caused the issue. It seems this was causing the spring to bind so it would not compress the valve. In turn the hydraulic rocker probably bottomed out from the extra pressure of the spring not compressing ultimately chewing up the lifter.
 
I got my new springs, locks, and retainers in today and mocked one up on the head to check fitment. I noticed that the old valve locks fit the old and new retainers badly. They form almost an oval hole over the valve stem whereas the new ones fit perfectly. I think this is what caused the issue. It seems this was causing the spring to bind so it would not compress the valve. In turn the hydraulic rocker probably bottomed out from the extra pressure of the spring not compressing ultimately chewing up the lifter.
If that were the case I would expect that some pushrods would be bent. The spring doesn't compress the valve, it returns it to the seat. I'm confused by the term 'hydraulic rocker'. I think I'd look further. I wish you luck.
 
If that were the case I would expect that some pushrods would be bent. The spring doesn't compress the valve, it returns it to the seat. I'm confused by the term 'hydraulic rocker'. I think I'd look further. I wish you luck.


I meant Hydraulic lifter.
 
Finally getting the engine back together.

DSC_0036.JPG
 
No nothing definitive. That being said it has all new bearings, valve springs, roller cam so shouldn't have the same issue moving forward.
 
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