Looking at 2 engine mods. Whats your opinion?

Budnicks said:

I think the gear change like @Cranky suggested
would be one of the best bangs for the $$$
your converter may be more useful that way too
get the car moving quicker, far better seat of the pants feel
a better wider & taller performance tire, could help too

the head shaving really isn't worth
the work vs power levels & possible problems/hassles
not from the description I saw here, by the OP

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performance 101
more lift or even just more rocker ratio in some cases

more air in & out, the engine is just a big air pump
high flow low restriction air cleaner/intake path & exhaust path

heads cleaned up pocket ported (big choke point on BB MoPars)
Stealth's are only like 260cfm flow @ 0.600" gross lift out of the box
your current cam if far less than that
Even a RPM or Street Eddy head (can get them in 84cc & 75cc)
will flow better out of the box than many lightly ported std port (Chinese) Stealth's,
but that's not a cheap deal to change

better intake & properly sized & style of Carb for it's intended usage
or EFI/Tank etc., properly tunes/fitted

hotter ignition, coil etc., to burn the extra fuel

better low ohm resistance sparkplug wires,
proper heat range plugs

the combo that works together
instead of just a mix-matched assemblages of parts
the rest is pie in the sky type stuff

or a street car that thinks it's a racecar, won't be happy either way

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GTX MATT said:

I'm assuming you sent it to FBO - did he tell you how he set it up?

That secondary spring can make a huge difference.

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RobsRR said:

Yes FBO set it up. I would have to look at the spec sheet.

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GTX MATT said:

Look and tell us how it is set up. Often times running manifold vacuum at idle means intial timing (base mechanical without vacuum advance) is low. Instead of 20 degrees initial you might have 10 + 10 degrees of vacuum advance. Idle is good, because there is 20 degrees, but when you stomp on the gas guess what? You've got 10 degrees and your engine probably wants more. Many people disagree with Don's approach on this. That setup should have a minimum of 15 degrees at idle, and would probably like closer to 20-24.

Honestly I think you need to tune what you have first. A light secondary spring and a properly set up distributor can make a car feel night and day different. You might shave your heads and change intake manifolds and it won't make any difference if your secondaries are only opening half way. Then someone will tell you your carb is mismatched, you'll put on a DP and it will seem like that did it, when it was a $10 spring kit holding you back all along.

I'm all for the intake swap, that will net you gains. CR increase will too. But until you get that carb set up right and make sure your ignition curve is right its probably not going to help, or won't help as much as it would seem. That stock secondary spring is heavy, your secondaries are likely not fully opening at all. Tuning what you have will take less time and cost less money than taking the heads off, and if it doesn't get you where you want to be you'll have just gained valuable experience and can start changing the big items.

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RobsRR said:

View attachment 895940 so this is the set up. Way better than before I had sent it out. I think it is just like you recommend. I will check on the secondary springs when it is back together. Is there a way to know if they are opening all the way being vacuum controlled?

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