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Giving head.

Stepped/counter bore milling cutter chucked up in a 1/2" drill. Step will keep it somewhat centered in that messed up hole and you can cut a new round one with the larger "step". You only need to get in 3/16 clean to tap a new plug in place.
 
We've ported through lots of heads and had so much time invested we HAD 2 fix them. We used to do the preheat and braze. Now we use a specialty rod by Muggy. Some times if you are welding a thick place to a thinner place you have to heat it up do get the weld to stick. You have to do stich welds... bigger welds take time. Best to find another chunk of iron to fit and weld the two together of the same metal. I also like the plug idea...but the welding is not difficult with the right rod. There are several methods welding cast that work...and like many of the guys mentioned some methods take incredible skill..stick welding muggy rod is the easiest thing we've come across. I see no problem repairing that.
 
So. so far I have " drill-tap-screw in and braze & grind and JB Weld.& and replace the head.& Muggy weld
 
Curiousyellow71 said:
We've ported through lots of heads and had so much time invested we HAD 2 fix them. We used to do the preheat and braze. Now we use a specialty rod by Muggy. Some times if you are welding a thick place to a thinner place you have to heat it up do get the weld to stick. You have to do stich welds... bigger welds take time. Best to find another chunk of iron to fit and weld the two together of the same metal. I also like the plug idea...but the welding is not difficult with the right rod. There are several methods welding cast that work...and like many of the guys mentioned some methods take incredible skill..stick welding muggy rod is the easiest thing we've come across. I see no problem repairing that.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I have used the Muggy rod to work on white metal. It's amazing stuff. I had forgotten about that.
 
The same psi as your radiator cap can hold. Takes that psi times your surface area in^2 and that is your lbs force.
 
Duane Porter........plays with heads.
 
Ghostrider 67 said:
LOL. Giving a head a chance to continue it's life on your engine. What would be a good permanent fix for a rear freeze plug on a head that is damaged? The PO put a expanding rubber plug in it and called it good. Not my style.
I want a permanent solution that looks good. It appears that someone ground down the plug boss but ran out of real estate before arriving at a sealable plug shape. How to build this back up? Discuss please.
First pic is the drivers side undamaged head.

View attachment 895202 View attachment 895203 View attachment 895204
Click to expand...
have a machine shop machine it to the next freeze plug available size. Done!
 
B90B52CD-B6BD-42D3-992F-EC216D19355F.png
 
@HEMI-ITIS , I think Ghost was just yanking your chain. I think almost everybody on this forum knows who Dwayne Porter is! I just seriously wish he was 2500 miles closer to me!
 
I appreciate the referrals....... but I don’t get involved with any kind of welding of heads.

If the rubber plug didn’t leak, and since it’s on the rear and out of site....... I would have just reused it.

Expansion plugs come in a pretty big variety of sizes.
Getting something slightly bigger than original and boring the hole to fit it is another option.

Unless you have a friend with a mill at their disposal....... that type of job/work can get a little spendy.

The last iron head I had welded, which was a repair to the deck between two cylinders...... cost me $200.
It was a Pontiac RAII Head, so it was well worth fixing...... but not everything is.
 
Last edited:
3AC2E9FA-DEE6-4BED-815B-B815DFF2A737.png


these work well also, but not sure if
“the hole in your head” is round enough or if they make them that small
 
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