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66 coronet starts to cut out at 3000 rpm?

mopar dude 6

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Im running a 440 with the 72 style mopar ignition converted over in my 66, and it just started to cut out as I accelerate past 3000 rpm . What do you guys think? try a new ignition box?
 
Could be fuel / carb problem also.
Start off checking the cap and rotor & wires, has the timing moved ?
You can switch the box or try another carb if you have another around to use.
Just make one change at a time so you will know what fixed it when you do.
 
I had issues with the Mopar Performance distributors but at lower RPM's. Lots of the MP stuff is built in Tiwan now days.
Went thru 3 distributors and never solved my problems. Finally went with the FireCore distributor, more features and significantly better built, works great.
 
If this an issue since you put the system in, check that you have wires on the ballast resistor so 12v goes to ecu. Put a electronic ign on my 66 Satellite all good. Put electronic ign on my 65 assumed 12v on same side of ballast resistor NOT ran like crap.
 
Yes I would try another amplifier (box).
 
I had a similar problem on my 67 Satellite. Car ran fine at low speed/low RPM, but would start cutting out at higher RPM, especially during hard acceleration. Chased many of the suggestions above with no luck.

An old-timer at a local auto electric shop suggested running a temporary wire directly from the battery to the coil to bypass the ignition wiring. Car ran like a champ. Not a permanent solution, but it helped me narrow my search. Turned out to be the main power supply wiring running through the bulkhead connector. Bulkhead connector was melted and dash-side wiring was corroded and burnt to the point that there was only a handful of wire strands left. Couldn't pass enough juice at high power demand so the ignition start cutting out. All good once I fixed the wiring.
 
I had a similar problem on my 67 Satellite. Car ran fine at low speed/low RPM, but would start cutting out at higher RPM, especially during hard acceleration. Chased many of the suggestions above with no luck.

An old-timer at a local auto electric shop suggested running a temporary wire directly from the battery to the coil to bypass the ignition wiring. Car ran like a champ. Not a permanent solution, but it helped me narrow my search. Turned out to be the main power supply wiring running through the bulkhead connector. Bulkhead connector was melted and dash-side wiring was corroded and burnt to the point that there was only a handful of wire strands left. Couldn't pass enough juice at high power demand so the ignition start cutting out. All good once I fixed the wiring.

Very good point, the bulkhead connector is the source of many weird problems.
 
AND......have your battery checked for any dead cells. Electronic ignitions are very touchy with a compromised battery......
 
AND......have your battery checked for any dead cells. Electronic ignitions are very touchy with a compromised battery......

Another excellent point. The battery effective capacity may be adequate to start & run the car, but not enough to properly support the ECU/coil.
 
Do you have another coil to try? Sounds like its could be failing. Pull coli wire out of coil is it oily?
 
hey guys I finally got back to it. Tried a new box made no difference, so I went to the distributer and swapped it . runs good now . I had replaced that distributer last year because the vaccume advance had broke off the old one . stay away from the spectra premium brand their stuff is junk.
 
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