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Replacing stock driveshaft. 70 B body Dana 60 manual trans Aluminum? Chromoly? Carbon fiber? Source?

biomedtechguy

biomedtechguy

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With the traction upgrades I'm doing, I want to replace the factory driveshaft. Also with the 4.10 R&P and Passon 5 speed OD, I'm spinning the driveshaft faster than if I had a 1:1 final drive.
Chromoly steel is my first inclination, for size, strength, weight, and cost. Also what kind of strength upgrades should I do re: yokes and U-joints?
Please advise on materials, source to buy from, upgrades.
Thanks.
 
Get a steel Strange with 1350 u-joints and never worry about it again. No reason for carbon fiber or aluminum as you will see zero difference in performance. The best place I've found to get one is Dr. Diff. Cass is great to deal with.
 
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First thing I changed on my Sattelite, 500" motor. My first inclination would be chrome moly, but I just replaced my damaged CM shaft with DOM plain steel thick wall that guy he normally uses behind 1000 LB-FT turbo diesels. If you find a supplier for CM?? You need to use the 1350 Spicer parts & forged yoke, if not billet. Breaking a drive shaft at speed is no fun (in the traps @ 112MPH). Massive damage results.
 
66Satellite47 said:
You need to use the 1350 Spicer parts & forged yoke, if not billet.
Click to expand...
From the Dr. Diff driveshaft ordering page:
Street/Strip 1350 driveshaft assemblies are built with 3" diameter seamless 4130 cr-mo tubing, nodular iron weld yokes, nodular iron slip yokes, heavy duty 1350 U-joints...
Race 1350 driveshaft assemblies are built with 3" or 3.5" diameter seamless 4130 cr-mo tubing, forged cr-mo weld yokes, forged cr-mo slip yokes, high impact 1350 U-joints...
$425 plus shipping for the Street/Strip, w/forged 1350 pinion yoke upgrade, but nodular iron weld and slip yokes..
I'm a little confused. I'll talk to Cass.
 
I had an aluminum 3.5" one built by Driveshaft Specialist out of San Antonio for my hemi GTX. Quick service, nice quality and really helpful on the phone.
 
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Outlaw525 said:
I had an aluminum 3.5" one built by Driveshaft Specialist out of San Antonio for my hemi GTX. Quick service, nice quality and really helpful on the phone.
Click to expand...
Hemirunner said:
I have a 3.5” Mark Williams chromoly w/1350 joints
Click to expand...
Prices for yours? "Extras"?
Thanks for all of the replies!
:thumbsup: :luvplace: :thankyou:
 
Hemirunner said:
I have a 3.5” Mark Williams chromoly w/1350 joints
Click to expand...

Same here..

With the stock Driveshaft I had driveshaft vibrations.
Changed to the Mark Williams Chromoly with the 1350 U-Joints, Trans yoke, and diff yoke.
No more vibrations. I am a happy customer.
 
Choosing this on Dr. Diff's site had me at $602!!!
biomedtechguy said:
Race 1350 driveshaft assemblies are built with 3" diameter seamless 4130 cr-mo tubing, forged cr-mo weld yokes, forged cr-mo slip yokes, high impact 1350 U-joints
Click to expand...
EEK!
Now I'm not saying $600 is a bad price for "all of that" but that's more than I should have to spend, I think (guess), even for my future 650-700 HP/TQ build...
That is one reason why I posted this thread!!
 
biomedtechguy said:
Choosing this on Dr. Diff's site had me at $602!!!

EEK!
Now I'm not saying $600 is a bad price for "all of that" but that's more than I should have to spend, I think (guess), even for my future 650-700 HP/TQ build...
That is one reason why I posted this thread!!
Click to expand...

I know, The driveshaft price is one thing, but the yokes and U-Joints really up the bill.
$498 for the 3.5" chromoly driveshaft and 1350 U-Joints, another $204 for the transmission yoke. = $702
I already had the 1350 yoke on the Strange S60 Rear differential, otherwise that would have been another $185.

I know what you mean with the overdrive. The MW driveshaft above is on the Charger, with just the 727, so no overdrive. My '69 Coronet has the 5-speed manual with 0.68 overdrive, and I do get a driveshaft vibration at around 100+ MPH. This is with the driveshaft that came in the transmission "kit".
I plan to check all the trans and diff angles before taking the driveshaft to be checked out for straightness and balance. It is just a mild steel driveshaft, nothing special.
 
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I am planning out a new driveshaft for a few reasons:
The one I have must have been for a B body with an 8 3/4 rear axle because I had a vibration in it when I got the Roadrunner, and I learned that many B bodies with the :lowdown: Dana 60 over the years may have had the driveshaft swapped out, and while the driveshaft "fits" from a 8 3/4 B body, it's a little too long and that often leads to a vibration, along with other possible problems. Sure enough, I measured it and BINGO, it was the standard length of the 8 3/4 shaft.
When I had a well known, reputable local driveshaft shop I've done business with a few times take it to cut and rebalance, his comments about the condition were "less than stellar"...
Since I am replacing/installing so much in about 2 weeks, including the entire front suspension, leaf springs, Assassin traction bars, sliders, spring perches, and 4 wheel disc brakes, and all of the rear suspension parts are part of the QUEST for much better traction, and I will be using my line lock for the first time, and if I can I'll get the Hydramax hydraulic throwout bearing installed along with the HitMaster launch control system, well it just makes sense to get a driveshaft now.
I have to make clear, the driveshaft I'm getting is also expected to handle my future stroker motor's output, and I spoke with the Bill Mitchell World block (aluminum) vendor today, and confirmed that I would be ready to pay for the block in full by late May early June. :bananadance:
So YES, unless something bad happens, I will OWN an aluminum 4.49 bore block.
Then I will discuss the details with their shop engineers, and see what comes of that. I'll know if that Weiand 6bbl intake fits under my hood soon as it arrives this week :bananadance:
If it fits, I would like to use it for the stroker build, using my Promax modded Holley carbs to start out.
Later, if I can, I may go this route w/the Weiand:
Screenshot_2016-05-10-16-06-18.png
Screenshot_2016-05-10-16-10-27.png
 
When I was on my Jenny Craig diet ,,,,,went to 4 inch aluminum with the big joints. Also if you think you will EVER use a drive shaft sensor that the rear yoke you choose has the room for it.
I have a friend with a driveshaft shop and had him make it up.He also has the high speed balancer:thumbsup:
Don't forget the driveshaft loop for the front and a chain for the rear................:carrot:
 
HEMI-ITIS said:
if you think you will EVER use a drive shaft sensor that the rear yoke you choose has the room for it.
Click to expand...
What would be the reason(s) for having a driveshaft sensor?? I honestly don't know.
I am having my Dakota Digital gauges installed during this :bananaweed:"Festival of Upgrades":bananadance:and to set the speed on that I believe involves mile markers and setting it. I assume that it doesn't matter how far off (about 15 mph too fast) my speedometer gear is since I haven't changed it. It's been a while since I looked at the Dakota Digital instructions, maybe I should look again. Anyway, the question remains....
HEMI-ITIS said:
Don't forget the driveshaft loop for the front and a chain for the rear..
Click to expand...
I already have the Mancini "front" driveshaft safety loop installed, the one that bolts to the transmission crossmember:
mancini-racing-front-drive-shaft-loop-53.png
mancini-racing-front-drive-shaft-loop-17.gif
mancini-racing-front-drive-shaft-loop-54.png

Tell me more about this "chain for the rear" :carrot:lol...
 
Just go with a 3" Hi Carbon DOM Steel Drive shaft...IMO opinion that should be fine for your combo...then, Of course, use Spicer 1350 U-Joints PLUS a SONNAX ChromeMoly Forged Slip Yoke (which you will never break and can get it from Summit...I did). Then get Strange Chromemoly Pinion Yoke and Strange Chromemoly U-Joint Straps..(Summit Again) and that is if you have a DANA 60 for the pinion yoke info...if you are using an 8 3/4 just toss it now and save yourself some money and headache.
 
Mike Gaines said:
if you have a DANA 60 for the pinion yoke info
Click to expand...
YES! it's the MIGHTY :thumbsup:DANA 60:bananadance:
My 70 Roadrunner is a Track Pack V-Code 4 speed. I swapped out the 3.54s to 4.10s when I installed the Passon 5 speed.
Thanks Mike Gaines! I'll see how much all of those pieces parts put together are.
The links @slepr1 posted look like a real good deal via Summit.
I have to put the brakes on spending right now. I brought my youngest black Lab mix to the vet today and she tore her ACL. Surgery looks like $2,500+ and I want that done asap. I gotta take care of my baby dog!
20200128_190203.jpg
 
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