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Who has a fast street car?

I've heard of this car before, think its weighs around the 3500lbs mark in which case were talking 850hp@142mph
3775lb 4 door. 1991 factory roller LA. Eddy heads, 550 hyd roller with stock lifters, stock truck manifolds (1.75" outlets) good pistons, Eagle rods. Blow thru carb on E85. Pushbutton 727 with a brake. Narrowed junkyard Dana out of An F250 Ford 8 lug (yes stock 3.55 junkyard gears).
Doug

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3775lb 4 door. 1991 factory roller LA. Eddy heads, 550 hyd roller with stock lifters, stock truck manifolds (1.75" outlets) good pistons, Eagle rods. Blow thru carb on E85. Pushbutton 727 with a brake. Narrowed junkyard Dana out of An F250 Ford 8 lug (yes stock 3.55 junkyard gears).
Doug

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When you look up SLEEPER in the dictionary,THIS car comes up!!:lowdown::lowdown::lowdown::thumbsup::thumbsup::usflag:

More door with a baby seat.........:rofl:
 
Street car is subjective as is fast. I could drive mine anywhere, anytime but as mentioned, the desire to do so isn’t there. I don’t know how you guys are getting these things so light. Have to have a fair bit of fiberglass. Mine is all steel including the hood. It’s been mid 10’s NA, mid 9’s on spray and hopefully low 8’s this year with the turbos.
 
Fast to me is good acceleration and top end. With really deep gears you might have a decent quarter mile but it's no good if you have top speed of only 120 mph. Really fast cars should be able to run the quarter in say less than 12 seconds but also have a top speed of 170 mph+. It's hard with a 3 speed auto or even a 4 speed manual to achieve both without huge power and torque.

I care nothing about top speed other than what the car does in the quarter mile. I've been 167 mph in an SRT8 300 and that's nuts on a public road! This is in a car with all the airbags and safety features unlike an older car.

I like nitrous in that it is power on demand. You can build a much milder engine that keeps cool and will be easily streetable and then add a few hundred horsepower only when you need it. The fact that it is easily adjutable with just a jet change and timing (my timing is adjustable with a knob) makes it even more appealing. To me, any BB that makes over 600 n/a is going to have some compromises when it comes to streetability. A power adder is the best solution IMO at this point.
 
I'll agree with that as I like drag racing. Although I am not a competitor I just like to get my brick to go as fast as I can get it,,, legally at a track that has a prepped surface for max traction.

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3775lb 4 door. 1991 factory roller LA. Eddy heads, 550 hyd roller with stock lifters, stock truck manifolds (1.75" outlets) good pistons, Eagle rods. Blow thru carb on E85. Pushbutton 727 with a brake. Narrowed junkyard Dana out of An F250 Ford 8 lug (yes stock 3.55 junkyard gears).
Doug

That is so cool
 
There are also many cars that some consider street cars and others say they are just race cars with tags. But honestly in todays world of power adders its not uncommon to see 9 second street cars that will fool you. I consider my 63 a real street car as its an all stock body with everything working and I still use the stock gas tank. Its pump gas N/A eng that's hit a best of 10.76 @ 125 and weighs 3700 lbs before my 180 gets in the car and that's because I have not stripped any weight off of it and added a rollbar and frame connectors. But I am not stupid as I know many cars out there today will clean my clock but high 10's fits my budget and I have a ton of fun just driving on the street. I drive the 45 miles to the track and love to race in the local Nostalgia Super Stock class. And I race it through the full exh on 92 pump and have a lot of fun. I don't and wont street race because I know what it runs and I don't need no tickets or don't need to crash or hit anyone so I don't need the problems of street racing. I keep my racing to the track and really enjoy when I can afford to go. Ron

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My roadrunner is in a similar boat as Ron’s car. 3760# + my 250#. Pump gas. Wipers, heater, everything works. Full stock suspension, doesn’t even have ss springs (needs them). Drive to the track, drive to work, doesn’t matter. Car is extremely streetable. You can ride around in it all day. Been 10.90’s with a six pack. Fast is subjective, I’d say it’s quick! :popcorn2:

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66 Valiant, had it up to 88 mph once......
Weird stuff happened
All of a sudden it was 1955:lol:

My RR- 12.5 in street trim, it embarrasses a lot of Mustang boys.:rolleyes:
 
I care nothing about top speed other than what the car does in the quarter mile.
This is actually my attitude today and comes from where I live and the times we live in. In Australia top speed is totally irrelevant nowadays as there aren't many roads linking the major cities and they are heavily policed. If you get caught speeding on the back roads you're toast too. In the UK (and much of Europe) back in the eighties and nineties it was different. The road network is huge and there weren't many cameras. Top speed was considered vital when assessing how fast your car was. The manufacturers would even boast about it in their adverts.."with 0-60 in 7.3 seconds and a top speed of 135mph" etc. Sadly, those times of freedom are gone, even in Germany where there are less de-restricted sections of Autobahn than ever. So forget my post about 170 mph...I was once again living in the past with the rose tinted specs.
 
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Yeah, "quick" is a LOT more useable, fun, and a lot more opportunities to experience the sensation of than "fast".
In my opinion, new cars and the performance that (amazingly) they have attained, along with power adders having moved from "rare, voodoo, and the necessity of individual 'know how' " to MUCH more commonplace in their use, and the proliferation of shops that people can bring their cars to, discuss their goals and budget, and then "here's the keys, call me when it's ready" have totally shifted what the definition of "fast/quick street car" means.
I like my "old school" muscle cars, and the performance and sensations that they provide. Running 10s in my Roadrunner I suspect will be an ENTIRELY different experience than running 10s in a 2020 Challenger or whatever new car, and I am absolutely sure that I will feel a lot more "connected" to my Roadrunner and all that it will take to run 10s than a new 10 second car that only requires pushing the right buttons, flipping a switch or 2, and pointing it straight...
Especially when I have to shift...
I'll take my Roadrunner, EVERY SINGLE TIME!
 
Fast to me is good acceleration and top end. With really deep gears you might have a decent quarter mile but it's no good if you have top speed of only 120 mph. Really fast cars should be able to run the quarter in say less than 12 seconds but also have a top speed of 170 mph+. It's hard with a 3 speed auto or even a 4 speed manual to achieve both without huge power and torque.
'15 or newer Scat Pack will get ya 12 flat with traction, 170+ top end, give ya cold a/c, power everything, Great gas mileage with cruise set and econo mode on, and will cross the USA at 80 mph yawning.
 
This is actually my attitude today and comes from where I live and the times we live in. In Australia top speed is totally irrelevant nowadays as there aren't many roads linking the major cities and they are heavily policed. If you get caught speeding on the back roads you're toast too. In the UK (and much of Europe) back in the eighties and nineties it was different. There road network is huge and there weren't many cameras. Top speed was considered vital when assessing how fast your car was. The manufacturers would even boast about it in their adverts.."with 0-60 in 7.3 seconds and a top speed of 135mph" etc. Sadly, those times of freedom are gone, even in Germany where there are less de-restricted sections of Autobahn than ever. So forget my post about 170 mph...I was once again living in the past with the rose tinted specs.
Agreed....and over here if a Cop sees you accelerate at anything above what might be considered 'average' you'll get a ticket for exhibition of speed. Doesn't seem like there is any point to going fast at all these days.
 

how did you get it down that far? all fiberglass?
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When I purchased the car it already had glass ,hood,fenders, bumpers, doors,trunk lid.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Must be more to that,,er I mean LESS!:rolleyes:
 
I would say pretty much anyone that participates in Drag Week
would qualify as a fast street car
I'm sure all of you know of those I speak of
& is really driven, it's an actual requirement
what 5.90's @ 210+ now, ******* truly amazing,
no matter how much boost or $$$, was thrown at it

my current car isn't fast, it's quick for what it is
(not really built as a drag car)
it might run high 11's if set up to go drag racing
it's never been to the track, been on mountain roads
sort of a drag car in-search of a corner
not fast, not by todays std.'s :poke:
I think a new Demon or Hellcat with a decent driver
could clean it's clock
on any street or at the track

I had quite a few fast street driven cars back in my day

had a 68 RR 3520# 479cid ran best of 8.58 @ 156 on a 300 shot,
went best of 9.77 @ 135 thru the mufflers in street trim
drove it some 12,000+ miles, never trailered to the track
over quite a few years

had a car brand-x 67 Camaro 468cid back halved, all Iron BBC NA
thru mufflers that ran 8.98 on real street M/T "DOT" tires, mid 80's
fastest street car shoot out at the old Firebird Raceway Chandler Az.
at Super Chevy Sundays
way/way before we had any, drag radials or the street tires of today etc.,
black tracked like a FC all the way, every pass

Had another that'd run low 8's on a prepped track surface
I highly doubt it'd hook well enough on the street to do it...
My 49 Ford Pro-Gas, BBC in it's street trim, it's "street tires"
old shitty Mickey Thompson 18 x 31 Sportsman tire fryers
full chassis, full tinned & cage etc., had street tires
it's org 488cid iron/alum headed, that ran on methanol/alcohol,
**** that's not available at the local station/pump
(mechanical FI Hilborn 4 port hat on a tunnel ram)

Now would they be driven in bumper to bumper commute traffic
oh hell no, most would only come out late fri. & sat. nights
cruises or trolling car shows for a duck or when driving to the track

relative what we consider a street car
just because it's street driven doesn't make it a real street car

todays technology & especially with boost, blowers, turbos,
N2O or traction control etc.
9's isn't that big of a deal, even low 9's
with the right parts, driver & tuning, hell the factory produces them now

now a NA street car
(especially with carbs & no real electronics or aides)
on real street tires, no cage, or no $50k + budget or alum. 588-600cid
(you know whom I speak of)
not a purposely built drag car combo
a real street car, the high 11's is still pretty damn fast

a lot of people talk like they are fast "on the street"
very few actually are
beat a lot of so called 9 or 10 second street cars
with a real mid 11 second car back in the day
I had the faster "street" car at home ready if need be too

(most were fast at the track & many of them were totally full of ****,
never ran as fast or has as much power as they said they had)

comment:
Observer; wait those are drag slicks,
Me; No those are my street tires :poke:
 
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A lot of people tend to take drag race setups and run them on the street. Deep gears, high stall converters, high compression (race gas) and cams designed for 3800-7500 make for a miserable street car. I went the opposite direction by building a big inch, low rpm "tractor motor" with tons of torque. It feels and drives like a supersized 440. It all depends on what your tolerence level is for "streetability".
 
A lot of people tend to take drag race setups and run them on the street. Deep gears, high stall converters, high compression (race gas) and cams designed for 3800-7500 make for a miserable street car. I went the opposite direction by building a big inch, low rpm "tractor motor" with tons of torque. It feels and drives like a supersized 440. It all depends on what your tolerence level is for "streetability".
That is an advantage of a power adder. It does not have to be so radical that you can't cruise or sit in traffic without getting hot or carb{s} loading up.The stall on my converter is 3500. Sure......if I had a 45-5000 vert my 60 would be much better but that would effect my street manors.Like many of us I can't afford a dedicated race car{s} with $75000 mail order engine. I would love to have one of those Proline HEMI's like the no prep guys but I don't have TV money$$$$$$$$$$$$$:(
Through the years I have been able to improve what I have and god willing if I can get to the track I will be in the 8's with a goal of 8.50 and hit the cruise in on Tuesday,Wednesday and Friday. :screwy:


BTW,,,,,Mark your box is FULL

A friend sent me this link a few years back,I do not know this guy but owe him a beer:drinks:

 
That is an advantage of a power adder. It does not have to be so radical that you can't cruise or sit in traffic without getting hot or carb{s} loading up.The stall on my converter is 3500. Sure......if I had a 45-5000 vert my 60 would be much better but that would effect my street manors.Like many of us I can't afford a dedicated race car{s} with $75000 mail order engine. I would love to have one of those Proline HEMI's like the no prep guys but I don't have TV money$$$$$$$$$$$$$:(
Through the years I have been able to improve what I have and god willing if I can get to the track I will be in the 8's with a goal of 8.50 and hit the cruise in on Tuesday,Wednesday and Friday. :screwy:


BTW,,,,,Mark your box is FULL

A friend sent me this link a few years back,I do not know this guy but owe him a beer:drinks:


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