Who has a fast street car?

HEMI-ITIS said:

That is an advantage of a power adder. It does not have to be so radical that you can't cruise or sit in traffic without getting hot or carb{s} loading up.

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Yes, Nitrous Oxide systems, for example, really have no effect on the engine or driveability, until the system is in use. Granted, if you prep an engine for nitrous, you want pistons made of materials that can withstand the extra pressure and heat, and the ring gaps are wider, and the rest of the engine has to support the forces exerted on it by the "juice". But none of that affects the ride like the direction I'm going in, which is all of the typical "hot rodding" stuff. There is at least one aspect I'm building in to my stroker motor that will allow for less wear and tear and stress on my valvetrain, and that is larger than "usual" displacement. Since the block doesn't have to be clearanced for a 4.50 stroke or shorter, and the aluminum block is available in a 4.49 bore with .070 left to go, I am leaning towards a 4.25 stroke or 541 total displacement. I don't want to go as big as possible because of my intake options, but I am already going to be at the top end or beyond my power goals and what the rest of my car can handle.
So in its own way, it will be a formidable "street" car, but on the "easy" end of what the block can handle, which brings peace of mind and hopefully longevity and minimal maintenance.

HEMI-ITIS said:

I'll agree with that as I like drag racing. Although I am not a competitor I just like to get my brick to go as fast as I can get it,,, legally at a track that has a prepped surface for max traction.

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I agree with you. I like racing but I don't go enough to be good. I enjoy trying to find the best times with what I have.

MarPar said:

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Good stands #5.

Regards,
#2.

LemonWedge said:

My Satellite may not be much by today's standards, but I rarely see anything on the street that I think would outrun it. I figure it’s a simple nitrous kit away from being a mid-10 second car in its 100% full showroom accessory trim. Radio, heater, wipers, cigarette lighter, glass, & steel.... it’s all there.

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Nitrous proves nothing...….

kiwigtx said:

Good stands #5.

Regards,
#2.

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Only the best for us "jack stand racers"

Mike Gaines said:

Nitrous proves nothing...….

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It is a power adder like boost. I intend to use a babyshot for intercooling. I find when the IAT is over 165* the ET falls off and more boost increases the IAT and not the ET!

Mike Gaines said:

Nitrous proves nothing...….

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Tell that to the guy in the other lane...

Power adders have been around since the beginning of hot rodding. It doesn't matter what form they take, the end goal is to get more air into the engine. Supercharger, turbo, nitrous or even nitromethane it's all the same!

Why old guys choose to cry about nitrous is beyond me!

Mike Gaines said:

Nitrous proves nothing...….

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My experience says it’ll usually prove itself to be worth a half second or more in ET. That ain’t nothing. I just mentioned it because when I built my engine, I gapped the rings and built the short block with the idea that I may someday throw a plate system at it, and as of yet I haven’t done that. I’m currently focused on, and having a lot of fun with bracket racing, so nitrous doesn't fit my plans right now, but the OP asked about fast street cars. Nitrous can be a pretty good tool in building a streetable car that has the ability to really rip.

HEMI-ITIS said:

Only the best for us "jack stand racers"

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kiwigtx said:

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Go light on the weight, and any motor will make the might any day.

I am like some of you guys as I don't get to race much as its maybe twice a year. But I love it and don't get real good because I just don't race enough. But I like to race in our local Nostalgia Super Stock class and I have a lot of fun just running the bracket racing in the NSS class when I do get to race. Ron

There is nothing wrong with nitrous. It's all about the tune. Been spraying at least one car since I was 16. Over 30 years and I have never blown an engine because of the nitrous. Even spray my 440 New Yorker with a 175 shot plate. My Challenger has multiple stages of foggers. We spray my buddies 275 drag radial 81' Cutlass from 10.70's to a best of 8.24 with a stock block 454 Suburban truck block.
I might have an addiction.....

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6PKRTSE said:

There is nothing wrong with nitrous. It's all about the tune. Been spraying at least one car since I was 16. Over 30 years and I have never blown an engine because of the nitrous.

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Share the details if you would of the most critical points to prevent damage or other problems with using nitrous, and is there a number, say "100 shot" that requires minimal prep or adjustments for safe add on power.
If you have a 6 pack spec big block and a target of 6XX HP and torque like I do, would you spray the extra 200 horsepower or build for it in the "traditional" way, or maybe a little of both, like NA 500 HP and a 150 shot?
Thanks

Steve,I think you can reach your HP goals NA and the add spray for even more HP after the car is "hooked"!!!

biomedtechguy said:

Share the details if you would of the most critical points to prevent damage or other problems with using nitrous, and is there a number, say "100 shot" that requires minimal prep or adjustments for safe add on power.
If you have a 6 pack spec big block and a target of 6XX HP and torque like I do, would you spray the extra 200 horsepower or build for it in the "traditional" way, or maybe a little of both, like NA 500 HP and a 150 shot?
Thanks

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All cars and engines require a different tune/timing/plug. My Hemi's tuning is way different than my buddies BBC.
That is the one car I have not sprayed yet is my sixpack car. I do have the plates and power shot solenoids to piece together a kit one of these days

66 Satellite, All steel except hood, lots of sound deadener, Steel roll bar, Stock Seats and Center Console, Wipers, Heater Box, ETC.. 3750lbs without me, 4010 with. Pump gas, Stock Stroke 440, through the mufflers, 4:30's w/gear Venders, 4500 stall, I put nearly 2000 miles on it last year, Runs 167 degrees no matter what, Been 10.80's @ 124. Drive it whenever weather permits.

This is my version of a real street car and yes there may be an induction solution plate system in the near future....

dvw said:

3775lb 4 door. 1991 factory roller LA. Eddy heads, 550 hyd roller with stock lifters, stock truck manifolds (1.75" outlets) good pistons, Eagle rods. Blow thru carb on E85. Pushbutton 727 with a brake. Narrowed junkyard Dana out of An F250 Ford 8 lug (yes stock 3.55 junkyard gears).
Doug

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Truly impressive!

theman440 said:

Truly impressive!

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Id like to add -

One of my pals has an S-10 pickup with a twin hair dryer setup on a SB shitty, AFR heads, steel crank, Dart block, all the good stuff - ETC. it is roughly 1000 lbs lighter than your plucked chicken. It runs 8.40's . . . and he thinks he's really doin' something!

6PKRTSE said:

the one car I have not sprayed yet is my sixpack car. I do have the plates and power shot solenoids to piece together a kit one of these days

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@6PKRTSE As always, thank you for the reply. You and I have discussed spray for the 6bbl. After I privately shook my fist at you, out of joyous envy of you scooping up the rare NOS system that has been out of production for years, and I just missed getting one off FleaBay, I found some happy solace with Nitrous Express! They have a Holley 2bbl 6 pack nitrous system, and I really like their perforated aluminum spray plates better than the spray bar. Anyway, their concept as delivered is to spray the center carb, and the kit has only spacers for the outboard carbs. Now all that I invested in so far is a single spray plate, and as you all well know, I could get another spray plate and use a spacer on the center carb while spraying via the outboard carbs. Or vice versa and just spray the center, OR spray all 3, and even that could be a 2 stage system using one solenoid for the center, and another for the outboard carbs.
BWA-HA-HAAAAA
Now I have already committed to buying a new Bill Mitchell aluminum block, and the bore as delivered that I chose is the 4.49, and although I could go to a 4.5 stroke crank without clearancing the block, I'm inclined to go with a 4.25 stroke to reduce relative piston speed and keep the displacement to 541, which my own decision to stay with a 3x2 induction system is a better match for as well vs a larger displacement.
I also have to keep the power output in check, because I am keeping my Passon 5 speed, and I'd rather not scatter it all over the track or highway. So the transmission is conservatively rated for 700 continuous ft lbs of torque, and I will be on the edge of being able to manage that anyway in a street strip application, or so I'm told.
At one time I considered building a 440 for nitrous, and reaching my 6XX HP and torque goals that way, because that really does seem to be the BEST way to have your cake (a mild mannered street driver) and eat it too (by hitting the button and eating the would be competition). Because those power levels are at the upper end of what a stock block can handle, for the sake of peace of mind and so as to not have a ceiling of power output built in to such an investment, I've decided to go with the aftermarket aluminum block, and the kicker is the visual impact of the aluminum block when the hood is open, and dropping 140 pounds off the front of my Roadrunner.