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Oil leak

Sonny

Sonny

It’s all fun til the rabbit gets the gun.
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I have a 440 with only about 3k miles on it since I rebuilt it and can’t stop this oil leak. I have used 5 different oil pan gaskets but no change. It’s the wettest at the front passenger corner where the timing cover meets the pan;however, it doesn’t leak at idle or low speeds. It’s wet near the oil filter too. After a highway drive, there’s oil all over the belly of the pan, K member, drag link and even on the front of the trans pan. Dripping. I’m currently using a Milodon pan and dry cork gasket. Question is, could this be a PCV issue? I’m using a Mopar breather cap and a cheap advance auto PVC valve hooked to the carb. Maybe the new front crank seal wasn’t centered? The tc cover was original and not in great shape either.
I’ve ordered a new tc cover but I thought I’d ask before I strip the front of the engine apart. I’ve never seen oil dripping directly under the seal.
 
Sonny said:
I have a 440 with only about 3k miles on it since I rebuilt it and can’t stop this oil leak. I have used 5 different oil pan gaskets but no change. It’s the wettest at the front passenger corner where the timing cover meets the pan;however, it doesn’t leak at idle or low speeds. It’s wet near the oil filter too. After a highway drive, there’s oil all over the belly of the pan, K member, drag link and even on the front of the trans pan. Dripping. I’m currently using a Milodon pan and dry cork gasket. Question is, could this be a PCV issue? I’m using a Mopar breather cap and a cheap advance auto PVC valve hooked to the carb. Maybe the new front crank seal wasn’t centered? The tc cover was original and not in great shape either.
I’ve ordered a new tc cover but I thought I’d ask before I strip the front of the engine apart. I’ve never seen oil dripping directly under the seal.
Click to expand...
Note the fuel pump and plug doesn’t leak nor do the valve covers. I’ve used glued cork gaskets, dry gaskets, windage trays, no windage tray, crush proof gaskets, removable windage tray/gaskets, etc. has to be something else.
 
Oil slinger in place? New harmonic balancer? Seal in backwards maybe? I would not expect there to be too much blowby creating too much internal pressure on a rebuilt motor, but maybe have a leak-down test performed to find out how much there is. A little more info on how much was machined on the rebuild and how much might have just been overhauled.
 
My leak like you describe was from the timing cover not seated all the way. It was stuck half way on the dowel pin. Looked OK but not all the way in. Drilled the hole slightly larger & made sure the cover slid all the way on. No more oil leaks.
 
I have the exact same issue. Just did the oil pan gasket for the third time. I used a generous amount of Toyota FIPG in the front of the pan that was messy, but so far the leaks have stopped.
I probably need to pull the timing chain cover to fix it properly, but just can't seem to find the time.
 
69Bee said:
Oil slinger in place? New harmonic balancer? Seal in backwards maybe? I would not expect there to be too much blowby creating too much internal pressure on a rebuilt motor, but maybe have a leak-down test performed to find out how much there is. A little more info on how much was machined on the rebuild and how much might have just been overhauled.
Click to expand...
Thanks. Yes oil slinger on and not backwards, new aftermarket hb, seal spring towards the cam. 0.030 over on stock 1978 block (first bore) turned crank, new Keith Black raised pistons. Engine has fairly low oil pressure using 20w-50 VR1 oil (45psi cold idle and 10 psi idle hot) stock pump so I know it’s not excessive oil pressure. I do see small leaks at both sides of the cover from the alignment pins and the “stiff bar” on the bottom of the tc cover appears separated from the cover itself (not an even gap). Looks like that cover needs to go.
 
Billccm said:
I have the exact same issue. Just did the oil pan gasket for the third time. I used a generous amount of Toyota FIPG in the front of the pan that was messy, but so far the leaks have stopped.
I probably need to pull the timing chain cover to fix it properly, but just can't seem to find the time.
Click to expand...
We sure are good at removing the drag linkage now!!
 
It’s fairly common for that stiff bar on the timing cover to look not flush, but it doesn’t cause any problems. The tin of the cover is solid and wraps around that bar, the gaskets seal to the tin.

Tape some rags to the engine to catch the leaking oil before it blows everywhere. It will help isolate where the leak is coming from.

Wrap the oil pump. Cover the corners of the block and pan, etc.

Go drive and see where the oil is.
 
R413 said:
It’s fairly common for that stiff bar on the timing cover to look not flush, but it doesn’t cause any problems. The tin of the cover is solid and wraps around that bar, the gaskets seal to the tin.

Tape some rags to the engine to catch the leaking oil before it blows everywhere. It will help isolate where the leak is coming from.

Wrap the oil pump. Cover the corners of the block and pan, etc.

Go drive and see where the oil is.
Click to expand...
Great idea. Thanks!
 
Seal the breather hole in the valve cover. Seal the dipstick tube. Apply 3-5 psi air into the PVC grommet in the valve cover. Spray soapy water on the engine. Look for bubbles. Works every time.
Doug
 
Also a quick crank case vacuum check...start it up, remove breather from valve cover and hold a piece of paper over the hole and see it it sucks itself flat to the hole or if it blows away. It should stick fast at an idle. Run the rpm up and see how it acts also.

Good luck.
 
Is the oil pan new? Most oil pans now-a-days are cheaply made and don't keep straight and true after removal many times. I fought oil pan leaks for years until I replaced the pan...no more leaks.
 
With that low of oil pressure, and the large amount of oil leaking out of the front, did you perhaps forget a pipe plug on the front of the block?
 
69Bee said:
With that low of oil pressure, and the large amount of oil leaking out of the front, did you perhaps forget a pipe plug on the front of the block?
Click to expand...
I’m going to check when I pull the cover. I remember there is one behind the cam gear and one that points down above the crank. Any others?
 
slepr1 said:
Is the oil pan new? Most oil pans now-a-days are cheaply made and don't keep straight and true after removal many times. I fought oil pan leaks for years until I replaced the pan...no more leaks.
Click to expand...
Yup. New Milodon.
 
I found four leaks- forgot to add sealant the the threads of the 4 oil pan bolts that go into the bottom of the tc cover. Dummy. There was a drip on each one.
 
Sonny said:
I’m going to check when I pull the cover. I remember there is one behind the cam gear and one that points down above the crank. Any others?
Click to expand...
Those are the only two on the front, with the exception of the one for the fuel pump rod install hole. Make sure they are tight, and not just there...

The timing cover bolts are on the outside of the engine so there is no need for sealer on them. All BB oil pan bolts are outside or blind; none go to oil.
 
Last edited:
69Bee said:
Those are the only two on the front, with the exception of the one for the fuel pump rod install hole. Make sure they are tight, and not just there...

The timing cover bolts are on the outside of the engine so there is no need for sealer on them. All BB oil pan bolts are outside or blind; none go to oil.
Click to expand...
I’ll check the plugs.

Your right about the pan bolts. I used studs, cork gasket, and no sealer other than at the block and tc cover interface areas. Maybe the oil is getting past the cork bolt holes and then down the studs.
 
Who/where was it put together.
 
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